[BillofMass]

Yesterday I changed the oil and filter in my 2010 Forester 2.5X premium for the first time. It just passed the 1000 mile break in period. I purchased the oil filter from the parts department of the local Subaru dealership. It came off the shelf wrapped in shrinkwrap that included a crush washer. Back at my garage I removed the oil drain plug which did not have any type of washer from the factory?? After draining the oil I attempted to remove the filter but discovered that the cap wrench that fit the replacement filter would not fit over the factory filter. I ended up using a band type wrench to remove the filter. It turns out that the filter that came from the factory is considerably different than the replacement. It is manufactured in Japan and larger and heftier than the replacement. Checked the owners manual and found out for some reason it lists two different filters. One black and one blue. The black is what came from the factory and the blue is the dealers replacement. The blue one is manufactured in Canada by Honeywell which is the parent company of Fram. It appears to be a much more cheaply made replacement for the original from the factory. It is lighter, thinner and the gasket is so skimpy that once it makes contact with the engine it cannot be turned that additional 7/8 rotation. My question is if Subaru is cutting costs on something as basic as an oil filter where else are they giving up on quality?
By the way, the dealers parts dept charged $7 for the teacup sized blue filter.

 

[ArcadeTom]

Yesterday I changed the oil and filter in my 2010 Forester 2.5X premium for the first time. It just passed the 1000 mile break in period. I purchased the oil filter from the parts department of the local Subaru dealership. It came off the shelf wrapped in shrinkwrap that included a crush washer. Back at my garage I removed the oil drain plug which did not have any type of washer from the factory?? After draining the oil I attempted to remove the filter but discovered that the cap wrench that fit the replacement filter would not fit over the factory filter. I ended up using a band type wrench to remove the filter. It turns out that the filter that came from the factory is considerably different than the replacement. It is manufactured in Japan and larger and heftier than the replacement. Checked the owners manual and found out for some reason it lists two different filters. One black and one blue. The black is what came from the factory and the blue is the dealers replacement. The blue one is manufactured in Canada by Honeywell which is the parent company of Fram. It appears to be a much more cheaply made replacement for the original from the factory. It is lighter, thinner and the gasket is so skimpy that once it makes contact with the engine it cannot be turned that additional 7/8 rotation. My question is if Subaru is cutting costs on something as basic as an oil filter where else are they giving up on quality?
By the way, the dealers parts dept charged $7 for the teacup sized blue filter.

Welcome to the forum. If you do a search, I think you will find more than you ever wanted to know about the new blue Honeywell filters. Buy a good replacement and drive your Forester without worries (even with the blue filter).
You will also find (by doing a little searching on here) that quite often the original "crush" washer on the drain plug is missed during the first oil change because it is "painted" to the pan. It is very easy to miss the gasket while underneat the car especially when it looks like a part of the pan.

 

[adc]

What Tom said...
You need the Lisle 63600 Import filter wrench with a 10"long 3/8" drive extension.

 

[crewzer]

The blue oil filter (p/n 15208AA12A) is the Subaru replacement for the previous black version. LOTS of forum discussions about this issue... Just type "il filter" into the Search Box, and then stand back!

Check this link for a (hopefully) useful pic of the MIA crush washer still on the oil drain plug.

Finally, if your car's equipped with an automatic transmission, take care to not confuse the filters and drain plugs for the engine oil and transmission fluid.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

[BillofMass]

Thanks for the replies. Nice to know that the filter is supposed to tighten in that manner. As for the crush washer, if there isnt a leak I will wait until the next oil change to see if there is one painted on under the one I added. Your experienced information is appreciated.

 

[adc]

Thanks for the replies. Nice to know that the filter is supposed to tighten in that manner. As for the crush washer, if there isnt a leak I will wait until the next oil change to see if there is one painted on under the one I added. Your experienced information is appreciated.

There won't be a leak. The washer is on there and they can easily be reused several/many times.

 

[Lone Ranger]

The oil pan is painted after the plug is installed and tightened, which is why breaking it loose for the first oil change is such a bear.

Ton of debate about the Honeywell blue filter since it came out as the OEM replacement for the black Toky Roki filter installed when the engines are assembled in Japan. The blue ones have been shown to be identical to the Fram 9715 (?...) orange can filter sold at retail in parts stores, except the spring that controls the bypass pressure relief valve is different in the Honeywell made Subaru OEM blue one. The factory service manual for the Forester specifies that the bypass valve pressure is 23.2 psi, whereas the bypass pressure on the orange Fram is less, around 14psi I think, so this likely accounts for the difference in springs. I have maintained and still maintain that there is some reason why the Subaru engineers want the bypass pressure spec to be 23.2psi and specify the use of an appropriately tensioned spring for Honeywell for use in the filter. Therefore, I continue to use the blue Honeywell OEM filter for my oil changes and probably will continue to do so at least through the end of factory warranty coverage on my '09. As far as tightening goes, I turn mine until the lip of the filter contacts the filter housing (metal-to-metal) which ensures the p-ring gasket is fully compressed, looking at the reference numbers ('1' through '8') on the side of the filter, this metal to metal contact usually occurs when it comes around to about number '6'. I also lube up the p-ring gasket generously and have found that the gasket will rotate in the channel (you can spin it with finger) if the fresh oil used to lube it gets underneath of the gasket. I don't know if that is good or bad, but it doesn't leak.

The black Tokyo Roki filter is a better piece, but you simply cannot source them anywhere anymore.

 

[Tremo]

After seeing the cheezy Fram replacement blue Subaru filter, I decided to continue using the PurOnes. Much higher quality filter.

 

[crewzer]

There appear to be a couple of PurOne filter options. See the attached dwg.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

[number 41]

How much more oil does that larger xxx610 hold and do you use it (more oil is usually a good thing)?

 

[funkymonkey1002]

There appear to be a couple of PurOne filter options. See the attached dwg.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

I've been using the taller 610 lately (started using it just because the store was out of stock on the 612). I'll cut both open soon and see how different the internals are. The pureone are probably one of the best filters on the market, however they do have a thinner can than some others so if you're offroading without a skidplate you might want to be careful.

 

[number 41]

And about that 23 psi bypass deal. Has anyone knowledgeable ever posted the engineering reason for this (since other oil filters do not manufacture their filters with that high a rating)? I've wondered if it is necessary for the turbo H4. Since I don't have one of them things maybe I don't need it?

 

[crewzer]

How much more oil does that larger xxx610 hold and do you use it (more oil is usually a good thing)?

A quickie calculation indicates the smaller filter's capacity is ~8 ounces, and the larger's is ~10 oz., so the delta appears to be ~2 oz (~59 cc's).

The two filters' OD's and thread specs are the same, so I'd expect the mechanical applications to be the same: Fill it with fresh oil, wipe a film of fresh oil around the gasket, and then twirl/tighten it into place.

Haven't actually tried it myself yet... just snoopin', so far... the larger filter is the aftermarket fit for our '06 Honda Accord I-4, so I just happen to have one lying around... :icon_wink:

The PL14610 (or L14610) application has come up before on this forum and others:

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/oil-filters-use-65301/?highlight=14610
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/any-harm-oversizing-oil-filter-57924/?highlight=14610

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

[SteveB2175]

And about that 23 psi bypass deal. Has anyone knowledgeable ever posted the engineering reason for this (since other oil filters do not manufacture their filters with that high a rating)? I've wondered if it is necessary for the turbo H4. Since I don't have one of them things maybe I don't need it?

One thing to keep in mind about the 23 PSI bypass issue is that it has absolutely nothing to do with how much oil your engine gets, or how fast it get's it.

The only thing the bypass valve controls is whether the oil is filtered or not.

The oil pumps in our cars are positive displacement pumps, meaning that the oil will be pumped or something will break. When the oil is very cold it becomes too thick to pass through the filter element as fast as the pump is pumping it. If the bypass valve wasn't there it would be possible to build enough pressure across the filter element to burst the filter housing, thus the need for the bypass valve.

The only thing that a higher PSI rating for the bypass valve achieves is the ability to force thick cold oil through the filter element a little sooner. Modern engines warm up fast enough that I doubt the added filtration time has any significant effect on engine life.

 

[vernkelly]

I ran into the same problem on my first oil change and wondered how to get the OEM filter off. I purchased a universal removal tool like the one pictured above and it did the trick. I've been using the Bosch filter #3300 and it works well. I over tightened it once and I had a slight leak. These are small filters and It is important not to overtighten them. I use the socket style filter wrench attached to an extension to my 3/8 drive ratchet. When tightening do not use the ratchet feature at all so you know how far you have tightenned after gasket contact as you cannot see the filter label because it is up between the exhaust manifolds. Also when checking the oil it always measures high when the dipstick is first taken out even on a cold engine. Take out, wipe and then check again. These are the tricks I've learned so far on My 2009 Forrester.:icon_cool:

 

[bonevvladimir]

Purolator Pure One PL14460 - that's what i'm using . I don't see the point of the drain back valve that 14610 and 14612 both have, since the filter is hanging from the engine vertically to the ground. Also the PL14460 has the closest to correct/factory by pass valve pressure

 

[bonevvladimir]

Sometimes i use Bosch 72181(only has 0451103275 stamped on the filter itself, says it's made in south Africa) which as well as the PL14460 from purolator doesn't have an anti drainback valve . This one is visibly wider than the PureOne and looks stronger, hence it might be better should a rock hit it while offroading .

 

[crewzer]

Anyone else tried the PurOne PL14460?

Interesting specs: no ADBV, and 20-25 psi relief valve. A bit larger (~0.5") diameter, same threads (M20-1.5).

The app chart suggests it to be a "Subaru specific" oil filter, including 4-cyl (EJ253) Legacy's and Outbacks through 2005.


Jim / crewzer

 

[TC2000]

Anyone tried the PurOne PL14460?

Interesting specs: no ADBV, and 20-25 psi relief valve. A bit larger (~0.5") diameter, same threads (M20-1.5).

The app chart suggests it to be a "Subaru specific" oil filter, including 4-cyl (EJ253) Legacy's and Outbacks through 2005.


Jim / crewzer

That's interesting, it also looks like the mating surface is a bit different then the 14612 & 14610's

 

[Lone Ranger]

The fatter diameter of the 14460 puts it kind of close to the exhaust heat shielding.