Same question here as we experience 100+ degree temperatures most of the summer. What are the pros and cons of using 0W30 or 5W30 during the summer?
oil change, Pennzoil
Hello,
My first maintenance for my 2019 Touring is coming up soon. I would like to supply my own oil for oil change. I was wondering if there a big difference (except in price) in terms of quality if I chose Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic oil versus regular Pennzoil Platinum™ Full Synthetic oil? Does it worth premium to pay?
Another question - manual says to use 0W-20 in 2019 Subaru Forester. I drive car in Florida, and internet search suggested that in Florida (or in the regions with very warm climate) 0W-30 is preferred. Is it really true?
Thanks!
My first maintenance for my 2019 Touring is coming up soon. I would like to supply my own oil for oil change. I was wondering if there a big difference (except in price) in terms of quality if I chose Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic oil versus regular Pennzoil Platinum™ Full Synthetic oil? Does it worth premium to pay?
Another question - manual says to use 0W-20 in 2019 Subaru Forester. I drive car in Florida, and internet search suggested that in Florida (or in the regions with very warm climate) 0W-30 is preferred. Is it really true?
Thanks!
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
My 2 cents:
1) Considering you will be saving a lot compared to the dealer's oil, I personally would spend the couple of dollars extra for the Ultra.
2) Again, me personally, I would stick with the manufacturer's spec 0W-20. If you have an engine problem during warranty and they test the oil and find something different, that could be a solid foot for them to stand on while passing blame to you. They do test these cars in Death Valley and other temp extremes, so I'd say you will be safe with 0W-20. After the warranty expires, experiment to your heart's content.
Like any oil topic, ask 100 people and you will get 101 opinions (at least). LOL
.
1) Considering you will be saving a lot compared to the dealer's oil, I personally would spend the couple of dollars extra for the Ultra.
2) Again, me personally, I would stick with the manufacturer's spec 0W-20. If you have an engine problem during warranty and they test the oil and find something different, that could be a solid foot for them to stand on while passing blame to you. They do test these cars in Death Valley and other temp extremes, so I'd say you will be safe with 0W-20. After the warranty expires, experiment to your heart's content.
Like any oil topic, ask 100 people and you will get 101 opinions (at least). LOL
.
Full synthetic 0W-20, any brand that has an API "SN" or better rating.
I wouldn't spend one extra red cent for oil just because it has the word "Ultra" in the name. Or any other superlative. I live and drive where most summer days are 90+ and some are 100+.
So much drama around motor oil. Use exactly what is specified in the owner's manual. It isn't ambiguous. The Subaru engineers aren't the ones posting other opinions all over the Interwebs. 0W-20. API "SN". Full synthetic. Any brand that meets those specs.
I wouldn't spend one extra red cent for oil just because it has the word "Ultra" in the name. Or any other superlative. I live and drive where most summer days are 90+ and some are 100+.
So much drama around motor oil. Use exactly what is specified in the owner's manual. It isn't ambiguous. The Subaru engineers aren't the ones posting other opinions all over the Interwebs. 0W-20. API "SN". Full synthetic. Any brand that meets those specs.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic oil FTW! 5w30
Your car won't notice a difference, but Ultra plat is slightly cleaner than regular PP Plat. Ultra Plat is very hard to find too.
It is not quite difficult to find - amazon.com does sell it. However 6 quarts of Ultra (it is how it is sold) costs $70, while 5 quart of regular Platinum costs $23. I guess such premium does not worth the trouble (especially, if there is no big difference).Your car won't notice a difference, but Ultra plat is slightly cleaner than regular PP Plat. Ultra Plat is very hard to find too.
You can get the 5 qt PP Ultra jugs from Walmart from time to time for $27. Like I said, those are hard to find as Walmart does not always keep stock of them.It is not quite difficult to find - amazon.com does sell it. However 6 quarts of Ultra (it is how it is sold) costs $70, while 5 quart of regular Platinum costs $23. I guess such premium does not worth the trouble (especially, if there is no big difference).
Regardless of the ambient temperature, your oil should run at about 200F. At 30 degrees F and 90 degrees F my oil runs about the same temperature plus or minus 20 degrees. Thoughtfully Subaru includes an oil temperature indicator.
since you're concerned right off the bat with oil quality in your new car, just change it 2x as often as spec'd and your engine will age gracefully.
My 2 cents...PLATINUM all the way. ULTRA is a waste of your money IMPO. Want to save some money? Click the link below:
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prom...motion-14.html#iframe=L2RpeS9TcHJpbmdNSVIxOS8
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prom...motion-14.html#iframe=L2RpeS9TcHJpbmdNSVIxOS8
Thanks for the link.
DISCLAIMER: I am a musician, not a petroleum engineer. LOL
I looked at the spec sheets for Platinum (P) and Ultra Platinum (UP). Most specs were very similar, but one stood out - Flash Point. The flash point of P is appx 395*F and UP is appx 435*F. To me (again, a musician but with a strong science background), I read that as less volatility and therefore less "fumes" working their way into the PCV system ready to be deposited on the intake valves of your new Direct Injection engine. So far, the choice for me would be easy - UP.
However, what the heck are they putting in this stuff - gold dust? A 5-quart jug of 0W-20 P at Wally World is about $25. The same 5-quart jug of 0W-20 with UP is $50. Yikes!! Yes, we are talking about protecting a $25K-$30K investment, but that's almost an extra $500 over 100K miles. Plus, we will probably be trading it in at around 60K-75K miles, before any carbon buildup would be a serious problem.
Something else that is odd - the UP 0W-20 is $50 per jug, but UP 5W-20 is $25. Really?
So, I guess we're back to the original poster's question - Is it worth it? Tough choice at $50 per jug.
.
I looked at the spec sheets for Platinum (P) and Ultra Platinum (UP). Most specs were very similar, but one stood out - Flash Point. The flash point of P is appx 395*F and UP is appx 435*F. To me (again, a musician but with a strong science background), I read that as less volatility and therefore less "fumes" working their way into the PCV system ready to be deposited on the intake valves of your new Direct Injection engine. So far, the choice for me would be easy - UP.
However, what the heck are they putting in this stuff - gold dust? A 5-quart jug of 0W-20 P at Wally World is about $25. The same 5-quart jug of 0W-20 with UP is $50. Yikes!! Yes, we are talking about protecting a $25K-$30K investment, but that's almost an extra $500 over 100K miles. Plus, we will probably be trading it in at around 60K-75K miles, before any carbon buildup would be a serious problem.
Something else that is odd - the UP 0W-20 is $50 per jug, but UP 5W-20 is $25. Really?
So, I guess we're back to the original poster's question - Is it worth it? Tough choice at $50 per jug.
.
You are correct, the PUP has a different additive pack, including anti-fuel dilution elements that raise the flashpoint. Made at the Shell Lubricants plant in Brockville, Ontario, my former employer.
The 0W20 PUP is weirdly priced, it was much more affordable recently at Walmart but it seems they raised the prices again. Was at 8 bucks a quart or so.
The 0W20 PUP is weirdly priced, it was much more affordable recently at Walmart but it seems they raised the prices again. Was at 8 bucks a quart or so.
Pup has better high temperature stability and it is what I use in our 2017 XT Touring. Not time yet for the 2019 Tourings first oil change but I will likely use PUP
It's your car you can do with it what you want ...to include use the oil of your choice.
All this hoo-haa about oil is just a waste of time and worry. Look in the manual. It will say use 0W20 oil. Period. 0W20 *only* comes in full synthetic formulation so that takes care of one choice to make.
Your car is under warranty and if something happens you'd better make sure you're servicing the car per the factory requirements ...that means using 0W20 oil.
When the warranty runs out then you can "experiment" to your hearts content. Or not. Go for it, use the 0W30 and believe the "professional" opinion-ators over the engineers at Subaru.
It doesn't matter one wit what oil you buy so long as it's the correct viscosity, has the API "star" on the bottle or jug and the oil meets the current lubrication standards. That's all that matters. You can have totally inane discussions about what make or moniker it says on the lable or whatever ...because you'll find all manner of people who'll swear up and down their choice of oil is the "best". If that's what blows your skirt up ...having inane motor oil discussions ...go to Bob is the Oil Guy dot com ...you'll find stuff there that will make your head spin ...if it doesn't hit the desk first because you fall asleep. If using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic oil brings you peace of mind over the non-ultra oil then buy it; use it. Don't solicit others as to what their opinion is because it doesn't matter; either oil will work just fine. Me, personally, I'm waiting for WalMart's "SuperTech" synthetic to come in a 0W20 so I can save a bit over the Mobil1 I've been using for the last four years since buying my Foz. I've used SuperTech 5W30 synthetic in my '98 GMC pickup; zero issues.
There are really important things to worry about in life, what motor oil you use shouldn't be one of them.
All this hoo-haa about oil is just a waste of time and worry. Look in the manual. It will say use 0W20 oil. Period. 0W20 *only* comes in full synthetic formulation so that takes care of one choice to make.
Your car is under warranty and if something happens you'd better make sure you're servicing the car per the factory requirements ...that means using 0W20 oil.
When the warranty runs out then you can "experiment" to your hearts content. Or not. Go for it, use the 0W30 and believe the "professional" opinion-ators over the engineers at Subaru.
It doesn't matter one wit what oil you buy so long as it's the correct viscosity, has the API "star" on the bottle or jug and the oil meets the current lubrication standards. That's all that matters. You can have totally inane discussions about what make or moniker it says on the lable or whatever ...because you'll find all manner of people who'll swear up and down their choice of oil is the "best". If that's what blows your skirt up ...having inane motor oil discussions ...go to Bob is the Oil Guy dot com ...you'll find stuff there that will make your head spin ...if it doesn't hit the desk first because you fall asleep. If using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic oil brings you peace of mind over the non-ultra oil then buy it; use it. Don't solicit others as to what their opinion is because it doesn't matter; either oil will work just fine. Me, personally, I'm waiting for WalMart's "SuperTech" synthetic to come in a 0W20 so I can save a bit over the Mobil1 I've been using for the last four years since buying my Foz. I've used SuperTech 5W30 synthetic in my '98 GMC pickup; zero issues.
There are really important things to worry about in life, what motor oil you use shouldn't be one of them.
You are in luck! Supertech is available in 0W-20 full synthethic API "SN". I've had it in my 2014 for 3 months now. From memory, it was about $17 for the 5-quart jug.Me, personally, I'm waiting for WalMart's "SuperTech" synthetic to come in a 0W20 so I can save a bit over the Mobil1 I've been using for the last four years since buying my Foz.
Just FYI, I recently saw some 0W-20 synthetic BLEND on the shelf. Can't remember the brand, but it was one of the big boys. Maybe Shell. Anyway, that would NOT be something to use in our Foresters, since Subaru specified full synthetic.
You are wrong my friend. You can get 0W20 in a synthetic blend and have been able to for a while:wink2:All this hoo-haa about oil is just a waste of time and worry. Look in the manual. It will say use 0W20 oil. Period. 0W20 *only* comes in full synthetic formulation so that takes care of one choice to make.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/MOTORCRAFT-XO0W20QSP-SAE-0W-20-GF-5/dp/B00TL6VURQ[/ame]
For the past 4/5 oil changes I have used PP Full Synthetic 5W30 in my 2013 2.5 Outback and I'm in Atlantic Canada, not as warm as Florida I can tell you! Immediately noticed a quieter cold start up or was I imagining it? anyway there's absolutely no problem changing from 0W20 and since using the 5W30 the Blackstone Oil analysis at 130,000 km's was great. Granted I do oci's at 5,000km's. All metals were well under the averages for this motor and I use a Napa filter and the report stated there was almost zero water, fuel and other insolubles present in the used oil sample. Excellent filtration the report said. Woohoo.
I don't add any oil either inbetween oci's.:thumbsup:
I don't add any oil either inbetween oci's.:thumbsup:
Not. I have done dozens of Used Oil Analysis and viewed thousands more (bitog.com) Where does your information come from? My grandaughter has my 08 Forester that has multiple runs of 10K mile oil changes.since you're concerned right off the bat with oil quality in your new car, just change it 2x as often as spec'd and your engine will age gracefully.
To the OP there is not one hill of beans difference in the benefit of using the Ultra. Not that it matters, I use QS Ultimate Durability.
Won't hurt to mix a quart or two of 30wt oil if you want. You can mix brands
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