[bbboys]

Hi, I searched the forume and couldn't find a thread related to my issue. I bought an OEM remote starter kit online (from autorized dealer in US) and installed it myself. I had Subaru registered the keys and programmed the new immoblizer interface. My dealer in Kingstan, Canada couldn't install it properly. The enigne starts, but immidiatly turns off (after reaching to 2,000 rpm). They had a live tech chat with Subaru HQ in Toronto and check every possible scenarios (as they told!!) and finally told me that the module is needed to be replaced. I want to see if anyone had a similar issue before and if it could have been solved with programming, not replacement.
By the way, Subaru Canada won't cover the guaranty for this device as I got it from US!!!! I have to uninstall all the kit, send it to US, and then they will change it for me!
I highly doubt about the modul problem and I want to see if anyone had the same experience ...

 

[DockingPilot]

Nope. My works perfectly.


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[bbboys]

Is there any rpm programming for the res module? In the manual, it mentioned that the system will turns off if the rpm exceeds 3,000. In my case, it turns off at 2,000. I wonder if there is any rpm justification that I can to do to fix the issue ...

 

[bbboys]

Any ideas ???

 

[e-ec-ecu]

Yes. I had this problem with my 2011...

I had the same issues with my 2011 FXT. The fault ended up being the dealer install.

It worked just fine when I picked it up from the dealer after they did the work, but didn't work right after that.

As the previous poster mentioned, there is a tachometer control piece with the remote start. This may, or may not, be your problem, but it is VERY important to set the programming when the car is warmed up.

Here was my situation:

I picked up the keys from the dealer after they did the work. Hit the remote, it started and then I drove away. I drove a few minutes to the local Wawa and went in to get a drink. On the way out, I remote stared again and the car started ... but then it cut off. It did this three times and then gave up.

What I figured out was that the dealer installer programmed the system with the engine cold. So, when he programmed it, it registered an idle of about 2500 rpm. The built in safety feature will cut off the engine if it detects the idle speed drop too low.

So, with the car cold, the idle speed was fine and the car would stay started. BUT, when the car was warm, the engine would start and then the tach would drop to about 1100 rpm and the car would cut off.

I had them reprogram the idle speed setting when the car was warm and it worked fine.

It might not be your issue, but I hope it helps!

 

[bbboys]

Thanks a lot e-ec-ecu. Do you know if I can do it my self? The manual mentioned the idle setup can be done without Subaru Select Monitor, BUT it has to be done before key registery. So, I'm not sure if I can do it after the key programming process ...

 

[e-ec-ecu]

Here is what I found. Hope this helps!

Here is the link to the manual for my 2011 but I am sure it is the same. If not, double check your install guide.

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/72371/pdf/072371-063510-H001SSC200.pdf

TACHOMETER IDLE SPEED PROGRAMMING
12
NOTE: THE VEHICLE’S HOOD MUST BE CLOSED AND LATCHED THROUGHOUT
THIS PROCESS
1. Open driver’s door (leave open throughout programming operation).
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON or RUN position.
3. Press and hold the momentary programming button for approximately 10 seconds
until the vehicle’s horn honks (3) times. (FIGURE JJ)
4. Release the momentary programming button.
5. Press and release the momentary programming button (secured to a wiring harness
in front of the vehicle’s dashboard mounted fuse box, FIGURE JJ). The vehicle’s
horn will honk (4) times.
6. Press and release the vehicle’s brake pedal (1) time. The horn will honk (1) time
to indicate that the system has entered tachometer idle speed programming
mode.
7. Start the vehicle with the ignition key. The RES system will begin honking the vehicle’s horn 1 time every 3 seconds
to indicate a valid tach signal.
8. When the engine has settled to a normal idle speed (normally 750-1000 RPM), press and release the brake pedal
(1) time. The horn will honk (2) times to indicate the system has exited tach idle speed programming.
Be sure
that the vehicle has maintained 750-1000 RPM idle speed prior to exiting tachometer idle speed
programming.
9. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.

 

[e-ec-ecu]

Yeah, you might be in a bind because I did find this:

Page 11:

POINTS TO REMEMBER
1. Prior to programming the immobilizer interface, the vehicle tach idle speed section of the installation manual must be completed first.

I would hope the dealer can help you.

 

[bbboys]

Thanks again, the only question is the posibility of doing this programming without have dealer to register the keys again. I mean is it required to register the keys and immoblizer again after idle re-programming?

 

[e-ec-ecu]

Not sure about that one.

Great question. Sorry, but I can't answer that one. I would think the dealer wouldn't charge too much since you have done all of the physical installation.

It would take them 10 minutes to do the work. But, then again, 10 minutes would probably be rounded up to an hour and @ $100-120/hr it may be rough.

How much did the dealer charge to program the keys the first time? If you did everything from scratch again (including the tach setting) and everything else required BEFORE the key programming. Then, go to the dealer and ask for the key/immobilizer registration ONLY, it shouldn't be too bad. ... I would hope!

 

[bbboys]

They charge $47 for programming. But since it didn't work, they asked for permission to check all connections and other installations piece. This one costs me $94 extra without a single clue. Then they called Subaru Canada and had tech chat with them too see what can cause the issue (this one happened at no extra cost). Finally they told me I have to replace the module (cost almost $200) and they cannot cover it under waranty (since I got the kit online from US) ...

 

[bbboys]

Awesome!!! It works now!! The idle programming soleved the issue !! Whoo hoo !!
I'm so happy and thanks a lot e-ec-ecu ...

 

[e-ec-ecu]

AWESOME!! I am so glad to hear it

I am really glad it works and that is really good to know that you can do that "after the fact".

I absolutely LOVED the remote start in the 09-13 models. I had it on my 2011 and it worked great. I now have a 2014 XT with remote start and find it very disappointing.

Sure, it starts the car, but the design of it shuts the engine down when ANY door is opened. This is by design and Subaru confirmed this. They also said that there are no plans to change it ... so, Oh well. There are a lot of "mods" that can be done to "bypass" the door switches but I am not going to do all of that!

Anyway, glad it worked!

 

[rusty jake 11]

I have the Subaru remote start on my 2010. It just started to give me problems. It will turn over but stop running after about 1 second. Murphy's law, as it is hovering around -30 degrees celcius right now. I will have to take it in to get it checked out. Good thing I have warrantee coverage for another year. It's a pain in the butt, but what can you do?

 

[95 cruzer]

What is the max distance the remote starts will work, I'm thinking about getting one.
Thanks, Bob

 

[bbboys]

Idle programming may solve your issue rusty! But it is better to go for the dealer and have it fixed through your warranty.
The distance is not the best advantage of this kit. It is les than 120m specially if there are concrete and wood in between!

 

[subiemichigan]

I am having the same problem on my 2011 Subaru Forester! I bought the module and installed myself. Brought it in to get programmed, didn't work. It would got through the locking of doors and turning the car power on, but the engine wouldn't turn at all. They replaced the module (the part was still under the 1 year warranty from subaru). Turns out the immobilizer wire was broken. So then they tried to program it, and it worked! Brought it home, and it didn't work Same story, the doors lock, power turns on, engine turns on and then hits a certain RPM and cuts out. Brought it back (by the way this was my 5th trip to the dealership), they "said" that they removed the fuse to the aftermarket radio that I installed and the remote start worked. So they blamed it on the radio, therefore it is no longer their issue. So, I tried that at home, and it didn't fix the problem. I put the factory installed radio back in, and it still didn't work. I am about to go back to the dealership for the 6th time!!! And let them know that it is still their problem. I will suggest they do the tach programming.

My question is....did anyone do the tach programming themselves AFTER the keys / starter were programmed? If it works, I would rather do it myself and save a trip to the dealer.

BTW...I'm about to send Subaru of America a complaint. This is seriously ridiculous!

 

[booki89]

I really wanted to order one of these remote starter kits, but when I spoke to my local dealer about it they just gave me a blank look and said "Remote starters? I think you need to go to a auto electrician to get one of those fitted"

Sigh..

Has anybody managed to program one them selves?