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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have pretty much determined one if not both rear wheel bearings are shot. Doing research shows the bearings are PRESSED in. Don't have a press so was wondering if I can buy a knuckle/complete assembly with the bearing already in or perhaps other ways to replace and repair the unit. I guess I could take it to a shop and have it pressed in?

Anybody know where one could be purchased?

Daughters first car, so on a budget..

Experiences?
 

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G'day & Welcome @flatfoot1$

Yes have a Subie experienced shop do the in/out press work because these can be a bit dicky and will quickly fail again if not done properly. My '03 rear bearing removal needed a big press and heat when done by a Subie workshop.

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2005 Forester 2.5X RWD JDM 6mt
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They can only be purchased separately, no complete assembly unless you get a used one or from a junkyard (likely to be bad or go bad soon).

I would have a shop press them in (thats what I did for my last 5 wheel bearings)

They do make tools that allow you to pull and press them at home (big c-clamp and slide hammer) but they will cost more than just getting a local shop to do it.
 

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Given the struggle it took a Subaru service center to replace my '03 rear bearing I'd just get a workshop to do the job if it happens again. I've replaced bearings on other cars in the past without special tools and not encountered any difficulties at all.
 

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2005 Forester 2.5X RWD JDM 6mt
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I know the fronts you can buy a hub assembly including bearing, that comes off with 4 bolts provided you can get the axle out. Apparently sounds like not so for the rear from other's posts.
Bolt in hub assemblies are only for select 5x114.3 pattern cars (pretty much STI only in the states)
Even then, they really don't want to come out. We have to hammer and press them out still after use since they are usually seized.

All 5x100 cars have press in only hubs/wheel bearings. Front and Rear
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds like I'm out of luck with a direct replacement...I think I have a shop that will do the pressing in/out. Doesn't sound straight forward however.

The bearing sounds terrible and frankly I'm embarrassed she has to drive it that way..

Any good videos on removal of the assembly to get at the bearing?

Thanks for the response so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, D- Day has come and the grinding got so bad that the wheel was actually fish tailing as I would drive it.

Getting it to the repair shop was a white knuckle stressful trip (10 miles ) of pulling over with hazards on hoping the assembly wouldn't totally disintegrate on the road...the grinding was maddening.

YES... I waited too long to have it taken care of. The shop said the wheel was about to fall off when on the lift. So now we pay the piper, but hopefully they can replace with used parts as much as possible.
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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@flatfoot1$ thank you for updating your thread. I'll add "SOLVED!" to your thread title. :wink:

Also...
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Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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2003 Forester X manual
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I couldn't help but notice you have an '03 and one or both rear wheel bearings are bad/going out. Curious how many miles on the car. I just had the last bearing replaced earlier this year, the first last summer. Both went out about 86K on the car.
 

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2003 X Automatic
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I couldn't help but notice you have an '03 and one or both rear wheel bearings are bad/going out. Curious how many miles on the car. I just had the last bearing replaced earlier this year, the first last summer. Both went out about 86K on the car.
In the case of our '03X, the first wheel bearing (left) had to be replaced around 120k km/72k (mi)

We did the right bearing somewhere around 200k/120k, and now we are back to the left at 290k km...I'm not particularly happy with their longevity :(
 

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In the case of our '03X, the first wheel bearing (left) had to be replaced around 120k km/72k (mi)



We did the right bearing somewhere around 200k/120k, and now we are back to the left at 290k km...I'm not particularly happy with their longevity :(


Longevity can be affected by the installer; having the correct tools and using them properly, as well as torquing the hub nut. Some shops simply blast the hub nut with an impact gun


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