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2004 FXT 5MT
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Had a problem with taking the rear rotor off, now that is resolved.

Have another question. After I finished replacing all four rotors and pads, I took the car for a test drive. I can feel that the front rotors and pads are dragging/rubbing, and the wheels are warm to touch. I drove some more and stopped to inspect again, now only the front left wheel is warm to touch, and the rotor is the hottest of the four.

The brake fluid was at max in the brake cylinder, so I took some out with a straw. Is there anything else I could try?

Also, when you put the new pads in, whereabouts in the bracket are you supposed to position them? I can slide them back and forth in the caliper brackets about 1/8'' each way. When I put them on, I just positioned them somewhere in the middle.

Thanks.
 

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2004 FXT 5MT
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Discussion Starter #3
Found Peaty's instruction on Scooby Mods on how to adjust e-brakes. I stuck a screw driver in the backing plate where the rubber plug is, and turned about 3 clicks and the rotor popped right off.

Now how do I adjust the dials so that the left and right are equal?
 

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2004 Forester 4EAT
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It's more adjusting them so they drag about the same amount. Adjust each until you can hear them just touching the the rotor. Just make sure they feel about the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This will be for another day. I'm exhausted. Thanks for the reply.
 

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07 FXT sport
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Did you regrease the slider pins?? I'm not sure how many miles are on your vehicle, but the slider pins might be sticking on you. I've also seen cases where the pads are a little to tight and don't slid freely. A little filing on the pad metal ears and some caliper grease can help.

dm
 

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Whenever I change pads (and at least twice a year, every 15,000 miles or so) I clean off the clips that the pads slide in (and usually pull the clips out and clean up the caliper bracket where they attach), and clean off and regrease the slide pins (the pins that the caliper slides in the bracket on). Then grease the edges of the pad where it slides in the clip (and usually put some antisqueel type stuff on the back of the pad). Generally all that makes everything move smoothly and no more noises at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I didn't take the pins out, but I sprayed the caliper bracket with brake cleaner pretty good.

I took the front apart again last night, and it seemed that the pads aren't touching the rotors evenly, so this time when I re-installed the caliper brackets and pads, I made sure they sit flush against the rotors before putting the calipers on.

Few more questions:

1. When the car is parked, the outer pad seems to be stuck with the outer caliper arms?( whatever that's called), is this normal?

2. I understand how the pistons press against the inner pads against the rotors when you brake, but how does the outer pad get pushed against the rotor?

3. The anti-rattle pin goes on the inner pad right?

4. Where is the low pad warning clip? Is it on the slider pin?
 

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07 FXT sport
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I'm not a brake expert, but I'll try to help. Others please chime in!!
I've added my comments in blue below.

dm


I didn't take the pins out, but I sprayed the caliper bracket with brake cleaner pretty good. you will want the caliper to slide on those pins freely. The pins can be regreased (brake caliper grease), you will want to make sure the rubber boots covering the pins are sealed and not letting dirt debris

I took the front apart again last night, and it seemed that the pads aren't touching the rotors evenly, so this time when I re-installed the caliper brackets and pads, I made sure they sit flush against the rotors before putting the calipers on. the pads should be able to move/slide around some so they don't bind. Is the pad worn in a non uniform way, or do you think the pad is not sliding freely?

Few more questions:

1. When the car is parked, the outer pad seems to be stuck with the outer caliper arms?( whatever that's called), is this normal? I'd check for the pad binding/sticking, I'm not sure what you mean by caliper arm

2. I understand how the pistons press against the inner pads against the rotors when you brake, but how does the outer pad get pushed against the rotor? Because the whole caliper assembly should float/move. The piston on the inside presses against the inner pad, the caliper body moves towards the center of the vehicle. The width of the caliper body is fixed, the movement toward the centerline of the vehicle, pulls the outer pad against the rotor.

3. The anti-rattle pin goes on the inner pad right?
I'm not familiar with the anti rattle pin, do you mean the low warning pin. anti squeal??

4. Where is the low pad warning clip? Is it on the slider pin?
The low pad warning clips will typically go on the inside lower or upper, it can be manufacturer based.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the reply.

you will want the caliper to slide on those pins freely. The pins can be regreased (brake caliper grease), you will want to make sure the rubber boots covering the pins are sealed and not letting dirt debris
Are you talking about this? I did not take the rubber off and inspect. But I did pull on it and it did slide nicely with a little resistance. Can you use any other kind of grease for these?



the pads should be able to move/slide around some so they don't bind. Is the pad worn in a non uniform way, or do you think the pad is not sliding freely?
I meant the outer pad is kind of stuck on the caliper itself where I applied anti-squeak paste on the outer shim of the outer pad, pretty sticky stuff.

Because the whole caliper assembly should float/move. The piston on the inside presses against the inner pad, the caliper body moves towards the center of the vehicle. The width of the caliper body is fixed, the movement toward the centerline of the vehicle, pulls the outer pad against the rotor.
I think I get it now, in the first picture I guess that's what those slider pins are for. When I brake, the pistons push the inner pad as well as those slider pins, that's what makes the outer pads come in, right?

Does the contact surface of the pistons have to be super clean? The inside of the pistons were pretty rusted, I'm assuming that's normal??

I'm not familiar with the anti rattle pin, do you mean the low warning pin. anti squeal??
It's a clip that goes on the ear of the pad. The front ones were stamped on the pads. There were 4 of those clips for the rear but I only used two.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Need help again!

I was taking the brakes apart to inspect everything, took the rear calipers off, and when putting it back in. The rubber surrounding the piston was a bit funny looking. So I started the car up, pumped the brakes a few times and turned the car off.

Now the piston is stuck open like this, some yellow sticky grease came out, the wet stuff is mostly brake fluids though. C-clamp didn't work, it's stuck out really hard.

Any idea how to fix this?



 

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Discussion Starter #13
I loosened the bleeder a little more, and I was able to push the piston back in, but the rubber now looks like this.

I'm going to put everything back together now. Is it ok to drive like this to a shop?

 

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Discussion Starter #14
I put everything back together, drove for a few minutes, came back, and to my surprise there were no leaks?!

What do I need to do to get this fixed the right way?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Found a few threads about this. Looks like I'm ok for now. Though I'm a bit concerned about the yellow grease and brake fluid sipping out between the piston and the boot.

Should I be worried about that? Also with the way the boot sits now, is it OK?
 

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Found a few threads about this. Looks like I'm ok for now. Though I'm a bit concerned about the yellow grease and brake fluid sipping out between the piston and the boot.

Should I be worried about that? Also with the way the boot sits now, is it OK?
No its not ok... Looks like you need the calipers rebuilt as the seals seem to have ruptured. Now your loosing brake fuid and brake pressure which is not safe at all. See if you can find a caliper rebuild kit and do it yourself. if I were you id sand the whole caliper with something like 1000 grit paper and get everything weather it moves or not cleaned up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's not ruptured, the grease and brake fluid was only coming out when I had the piston all the way out of the caliper cylinder. No leaks after I put everything back together and drove around.
 

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2004 Forester 4EAT
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Why did you have the piston out of the cylinder? I would be a little worried about contamination. At a minimum, clean it all off very well and keep an eye on it. Check in 10 miles, 100 miles, 1000 miles, and then call it fixed. (or just go with brembos)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What do I check at those intervals? Just leaks etc externally or do I need to take the pistons out to inspect?

I did it because when I had the caliper disassembled, I pumped the brakes a few times too many and it pushed the piston out of the cylinder, nothing got in though, just grease and brake fluid came out. I don't suppose anything would've gone inside.
 

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2015 OutBack Ltd
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.....and this is why I'm afraid to try to do the brakes myself. This is a PERFECT example of what I fear would happen to me.

Any time I see a DIYS project and the time estimate is 10 minutes, it always seems to take me 10 times as long and possibly a trip to the ER for a deep gash or some other tragedy.

Oil and Filter? Sure............bulbs? Of course, heavy duty, your life is hanging in the balance projects?...............I don;t think so.

Hope your brake project works out well......

Steve
 
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