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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is for lowered Foresters on WRX suspension components to correct the geometry angles that will result in less stress on suspension components and a better feel while turning. This will also remove some weight off the front end of the vehicle apparently these spacers are as heavy as dark matter.

***one thing to note, the 6MT is going to be VERY hard to fit correctly since the transmission tunnel on the SF is so small and the 6MT is so large, one guy tried it but gave up everything was too close for comfort, 1 solution I may try is MSI motor mounts because they lower the engine 10mm and a custom 6MT tranny mount spacer, but for now this is for 5MT guys only!***

Alright, so I know there is a thread on this & I have posted in it. However this was long ago though before I really knew much about my Forester & had just recently acquired it, as well as before I had done any real work on it.
So now that I have a much comprehensive idea of whats going on down there, I am ready to take on the challenge of correcting the geometry on my Forester as well as installing a quick ratio *powerless* steering rack.
The previous thread with information is very long, confusing & many times runs around in circles, so I want to make my own thread, where I will log my process, questions & findings for others to answer, watch & learn. I hope that I can use this thread to figure out the couple questions I do have, as well as others can use it for a less confusing version of the other thread.

To my knowledge, these are the particular areas that the SF Forester is spaced at:

Engine crossmember - spacer blocks between chassis and crossmember.
Trans crossmember - shaped differently with spacing built into its shape.
Tailshaft center bearing - mounting ring has the spacing built in. Also on SF, it is not same bolt mounting as SG/GD.
LCA transverse bush housing - The alloy is shaped different to account for spacing.
Steering link - longer on forester.
TMIC air duct/splitter - longer on forester.
Pitch Stopper mount - longer on forester.
Radiator and radiator hoses - Totally different shape, probably due to spacers, aswell as other differences like body styling etc?
Probably lots of miscellaneous differences like a/c lines, air intake, etc

I will address each of these issues to the best of my understanding.
So our goal here is to remove the spacers between the engine and front cross member, this will lift everything attached to the cross member UP in the engine bay. In order to do this we must replace the bolts with GC length bolts.

We must also remove the spacers on the transmission cross member, however the spacers on this are not actually spacers, they are built in to the piece itself. Our 2 options here are the grind down the spacer portion of the unit or buy a GC unit. In my particular case I am hoping to buy a TSS Fab chromoly tubed piece for added strength & less weight. Once I find out if GC & GD transmission cross members are the same or not. This will also require the shorter bolts

The drive shaft center ring, this is going to be one of my questions, I am thinking just swapping to a GC driveshaft is going to be the solution here? Also, there is the option of going with an aluminum or carbon drive shaft which do not require this bearing at all.

LCA transverse bush housing, many people have decided to buy a Whiteline WRX ALK kit, however, when searching for information on this project I have found the information that the Foresters bushing housing actually has MORE anti lift built into it than the Whiteline does, so you can can do either. You can also swap these on to aluminum GC control arms if you so wish. They do not weigh less like many people think but they are more rigid.

Steering link, you will need a SHORTER steering link (which connects the steering rack to the steering column) because you are lifting the steering rack up. The GC one will work just fine if you are keeping a Forester steering rack, however if you are getting a GD WRX or STi steering rack you will need to either swap the U joints, or buy an L&E Fabrications GC-GD hybrid steering link. This link is the route I am going since it has no bushing in it and gives a much more connected feeling to the rack.

TMIC splitter, I do not know what to do about this yet. Maybe swap the a GC with a EJ20K in it (the one where the intercooler is not crooked?) all I know is when lifting the motor the intercooler will probably hit the Foresters splitter since it's lower.

Pitch stop mount, your Foresters MAY work since there is play in the bolting spot where the pitch stop mount mounts haha. However I already have a Kartboy WRX pitch stop so I know I will be good

Radiator hoses & various other things. Apparently the radiator hoses "will" work, they just end up being pinched a little which for me is not ideal, I may run it like this initially. Talking to a guy in Australia though who is swapping an SG Koyo radiator in his Forester with spacer delete and he is going to let me know how it works, if it's good. It might be as simple as buying an SG radiator (which is apparently slightly taller which will cool better) and SG hoses.

So... I hope that clears things up for some people looking at doing this project along with me... now for MY QUESTIONS

Does anybody know if the transmission cross member on the GC is the same as the GD as far as bolting it in?

Do I need WRX steering linkage?? If so, is GC & GD the same?

Will the GC driveshaft bolt directly into the Forester.

Anybody with this info please chime in, and if not... we need to figure this out :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Now for my rack swap. I have found a 2004 GD STi V7 Spec C quick ratio steering rack. Which is 13:1 steering ratio, compared to the (what I have read) 19:1 steering ratio of the SF Forester.

Even though my rack is different, many people will benefit from swapping in a WRX or STi rack which (again from what I have read) are 15:1 ratio. So not quite a "quick rack" but still quicker.

In order to do this the problem is that the splines on the WRX STi rack are different than the splines on the SF / GC rack. As well as the splines coming off the steering columns.
In order to fit these racks, you must have the steering knuckle mate to both the steering column and the steering rack. So you essentially need the top splines GC style & the lower splines GD style. IF you are removing the spacers, you can buy that L&E pre-built link. If not, you need to take your SF steering joint, remove the top U and swap it on to an STi solid GD link. You'll notice on the SF the top U is longer, which makes up the length difference, swapping it onto the GD link will make the STi link the same length as the Foresters (within 1mm)

Another thing you should know, is that you must get a 2004 or earlier rack, because it is not a "direct mount" rack. If you get 2005 or later, you will need to buy/swap the rack AND the cross member.
Also, I believe that with GD racks, you will have to work with patients to get the power steering lines to fit nicely since they are not at the same angles.

(this is not a problem for me since I am "de-powering" my rack) which comes next...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
De Powering the rack. Not for a daily driver, unless you are strong. I've driven cars daily without power steering (heavier than the Forester), for me it has never been a problem, but I like the work out. After you are going 10km / hr you don't even notice it anyways.

Benefits of a de-powered steering rack:
-Removal of HP robbing parasitic loss
-Removal of weight from the front end of the vehicle (most important weight removal on our cars)
-More direct feel to the wheels which is great for racing, also when racing you can actually "get ahead" of your power steering during fast turns
-More room in the engine bay
-Less chance of a leak/problem happening. power steering is very flammable and in such a highly pressurized system a leak can cause vapor to spray everywhere, quickly annihilating your car that you just spent thousands and years building.

So in my case, it's all green lights my car is a weekend/track build.

So basically, de powering a rack consists of removal of all the power steering components within the engine bay & removing the inner seals within the steering rack.
Essentially you need to take apart your rack, ditch the inner seals, grease up everything nicely with a good synthetic multi purpose (I'm going to use Amsoil), reassembly (to proper torque specs) and seal the rack where the lines went in.
After this you will probably want to install polyurethane rack bushings since the less the rack moves the better the steering feel will be. Removing the inner seals apparently makes the rack virtually as easy to use as a rack that was designed for no power steering, since its the resistance of the inner seals that make it so hard to turn... (the cars I've driven before w/o p.s did NOT have the inner seals removed) another thing to note, the quicker the steering rack ratio the tougher the rack is to turn.

Subaru guys experience of de-powering steering rack:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?5966-De-powering-the-steering-rack-plus-more-to-come-on-rebuilding-wrx-parts

The Miata DIY guide that everybody follows to do this, it's essentially the same on all these types or racks:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

This video will enlighten you on what is going on with a power steering system:
 

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I have some thoughts but will probably have to break them up and add in as I get to each one. I'll probably identify parts as GC and GD since I tend to default to Impreza speak. I agree that thread is full of info but it needs some tidying up.
I would add to your list the rear cross member. The Forester rear cross member does not use sub-spacers, instead it is built with additional height. So it can't really be modified. It has to be replaced with an Impreza version. Also note that an Impreza version will change the position of one of the cat-back hangers. That hanger is welded to the rear cross member. You can reuse your lateral links since the Forester ones are the same length as WRX and 2004 STI. 2005-07 STI lateral links are another story.

The only one I am not clear on are the rear trailing arm mounts. The brackets that bolt the trailing arms to the chassis. Are those different between the Forester and Impreza or not? I recall looking those up awhile agao and seeing different part numbers. Pretty sure the trailing arms are the same though.

Trans crossmember - shaped differently with spacing built into its shape.
We must also remove the spacers on the transmission cross member, however the spacers on this are not actually spacers, they are built in to the piece itself. Our 2 options here are the grind down the spacer portion of the unit or buy a GC unit. In my particular case I am hoping to buy a TSS Fab chromoly tubed piece for added strength & less weight. Once I find out if GC & GD transmission cross members are the same or not. This will also require the shorter bolts.
Does anybody know if the transmission cross member on the GC is the same as the GD as far as bolting it in?
The trans cross member is made of three members bolted together with isolation bushings. I am 80% certain that the front (longest) one has the extra Forester sub-spacing built into it. Cut those two parts off and "poof" instant Impreza trans cross member. There are some differences in those members between STI and non-STI, STI versions having some additional gusseting. Also some differences between turbo and non-turbo, clearance for exhaust routing I believe.
I have not had a chance to compare the GC trans cross member with the one on my WRX yet, but I'll try to look at it here soon. I'd be surprised if the GC and GD trans cross members are not interchangeable.

Steering link - longer on forester.
Steering link, you will need a SHORTER steering link (which connects the steering rack to the steering column) because you are lifting the steering rack up. The GC one will work just fine if you are keeping a Forester steering rack, however if you are getting a GD WRX or STi steering rack you will need to either swap the U joints, or buy an L&E Fabrications GC-GD hybrid steering link. This link is the route I am going since it has no bushing in it and gives a much more connected feeling to the rack.
Do I need WRX steering linkage?? If so, is GC & GD the same?
I think your #2 post covers it pretty well. The GD steering shaft and rack shaft have different splines than the GC era parts. As you noted there is the overall length aspect due to removing the sub-spacers. If there is any interchange of GC and GD steering parts then one would need a modified linkage as you pointed out. Either purchased or self-modified. There is always the option to install a GD steering shaft/column but that has it's own workarounds to deal with.

TMIC air duct/splitter - longer on forester. TMIC splitter, I do not know what to do about this yet. Maybe swap the a GC with a EJ20K in it (the one where the intercooler is not crooked?) all I know is when lifting the motor the intercooler will probably hit the Foresters splitter since it's lower.
It certainly is longer than the Impreza version but the duct is part sheet metal and part rubber bellow. I think the rubber bellow is somewhere around 2" thick. Not sure if removing that bellow and using a lower profile rubber seal would work or not. If not, then the sheet metal could be shortened a bit.
*If you're planning those lowering engine mounts then this relationship will change a bit.

Tailshaft center bearing - mounting ring has the spacing built in. Also on SF, it is not same bolt mounting as SG/GD. The drive shaft center ring, this is going to be one of my questions, I am thinking just swapping to a GC driveshaft is going to be the solution here? Also, there is the option of going with an aluminum or carbon drive shaft which do not require this bearing at all.
Will the GC driveshaft bolt directly into the Forester.
I have a v6 STI "GC" and a 2006 WRX "GD" driveshaft to compare to each other. The driveshaft center supports have the same bolt spacing. The only difference I can see is that the GD version uses rubber isolation mounts to the chassis. The GC version bolts directly to the chassis. However the mounting planes look to be the same. The distance from the support bolts to the front yoke is the same between the two shafts. Same for the distance between the support bolts and the rear yoke. I have not had the chance to do a side-by-side with the driveshaft in my Forester yet. But I plan to do so in the next few weeks. I'm 80% certain the GC and GD shafts are interchangeable.
The one-piece driveshafts are nice but pretty spendy. Just keep an eye on OD and clearance to other components around there.

Another thing you should know, is that you must get a 2004 or earlier rack, because it is not a "direct mount" rack. If you get 2005 or later, you will need to buy/swap the rack AND the cross member.
Also, I believe that with GD racks, you will have to work with patients to get the power steering lines to fit nicely since they are not at the same angles.
I agree that a 2004 STI (2002-05 WRX) rack fits into the existing front cross member just like the Forester's rack. However a 2005-07 STI rack will fit into the older cross member just fine and many have done this. It isn't documented very well though. You would only be able to use 4 of the 6 mounting bolts since there is no threaded bosses for the rack brace (C shaped bracket). The two LHS bolts need to be longer than the Forester LHS bolts to work with the newer version rack. The LHS bushings are in the rack's mounting tabs so there is no need to use a wrap-around bushing anymore. The RHS rack bushing needs to be the older version (half round half square) with using the D clamp and same shorter bolts.
Probably right on the PS lines possibly needing some "help" to fit in place. There are a few iterations out there.


I ran a de-powered steering rack on my Civic a long while back. It worked fine and gave me no issues. Did not modify the rack internals, I just removed the PS pump and related lines. The lines at the rack were looped and one was sent up the firewall. I used an aftermarket remote reservoir filled with ball bearings to serve as a vent breather. Don't think I would do it to my Subarus but for what you are looking to do it might be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have some thoughts but will probably have to break them up and add in as I get to each one. I'll probably identify parts as GC and GD since I tend to default to Impreza speak. I agree that thread is full of info but it needs some tidying up.
I would add to your list the rear cross member. The Forester rear cross member does not use sub-spacers, instead it is built with additional height. So it can't really be modified. It has to be replaced with an Impreza version. Also note that an Impreza version will change the position of one of the cat-back hangers. That hanger is welded to the rear cross member. You can reuse your lateral links since the Forester ones are the same length as WRX and 2004 STI. 2005-07 STI lateral links are another story.

The only one I am not clear on are the rear trailing arm mounts. The brackets that bolt the trailing arms to the chassis. Are those different between the Forester and Impreza or not? I recall looking those up awhile agao and seeing different part numbers. Pretty sure the trailing arms are the same though.
Ok this is good info, everything I found and talked to people told me that the rear subframe had no spacing and that it was identical. Although guys who told me this, had done this modification to "GT" Foresters in Australia so they are turbo models. Just wondering, have you seen the rear sub frames of both SF5 & Imprezza? so you know this is certain fact or have you just heard this?

I think your #2 post covers it pretty well. The GD steering shaft and rack shaft have different splines than the GC era parts. As you noted there is the overall length aspect due to removing the sub-spacers. If there is any interchange of GC and GD steering parts then one would need a modified linkage as you pointed out. Either purchased or self-modified. There is always the option to install a GD steering shaft/column but that has it's own workarounds to deal with.
Yeah, my Spec C steering rack is actually coming with a solid STi steering joint, so what one of the guys in Australia told me to try was taking the bottom U off the SF5 one (since it's not longer) and swapping it with the top U on the STi one. This might make it short enough to use with a Forester he said that when measuring the GC one was a little shorter than optimal so this might be even better, and will save me like $150... However, if it does not work I'm going to just buy the L&E unit

It certainly is longer than the Impreza version but the duct is part sheet metal and part rubber bellow. I think the rubber bellow is somewhere around 2" thick. Not sure if removing that bellow and using a lower profile rubber seal would work or not. If not, then the sheet metal could be shortened a bit.
*If you're planning those lowering engine mounts then this relationship will change a bit.
I was also thinking that the rubber might be long enough to just cut but I am not around my car to inspect it so I wasn't certain.
Also my case will be different in the long run since I have a Spearco intercooler going in with a Grimmspeed splitter eventually, but this mod will be happening long before those go in anyways.

I have a v6 STI "GC" and a 2006 WRX "GD" driveshaft to compare to each other. The driveshaft center supports have the same bolt spacing. The only difference I can see is that the GD version uses rubber isolation mounts to the chassis. The GC version bolts directly to the chassis. However the mounting planes look to be the same. The distance from the support bolts to the front yoke is the same between the two shafts. Same for the distance between the support bolts and the rear yoke. I have not had the chance to do a side-by-side with the driveshaft in my Forester yet. But I plan to do so in the next few weeks. I'm 80% certain the GC and GD shafts are interchangeable.
The one-piece driveshafts are nice but pretty spendy. Just keep an eye on OD and clearance to other components around there.
Ok wicked, I'll watch for your report on this. For now I will just be picking up an OEM driveshaft, eventually I will be swapping to a carbon fiber one though. Like you said also, the carbon fiber shaft will go in with no problems... however the aluminum shaft is thicker and you need to work some areas with a little love to make it fit.

I agree that a 2004 STI (2002-05 WRX) rack fits into the existing front cross member just like the Forester's rack. However a 2005-07 STI rack will fit into the older cross member just fine and many have done this. It isn't documented very well though. You would only be able to use 4 of the 6 mounting bolts since there is no threaded bosses for the rack brace (C shaped bracket). The two LHS bolts need to be longer than the Forester LHS bolts to work with the newer version rack. The LHS bushings are in the rack's mounting tabs so there is no need to use a wrap-around bushing anymore. The RHS rack bushing needs to be the older version (half round half square) with using the D clamp and same shorter bolts.
Probably right on the PS lines possibly needing some "help" to fit in place. There are a few iterations out there.
So it is doable, good to know for some others who may come across 05+ racks for wicked deals, myself though I like the fact of being able to bolt down all the bolts and stuff it makes me feel better haha I'm too anal sometimes, everything is already so complicated to keep track of too that the simpler the better at this point :p

I ran a de-powered steering rack on my Civic a long while back. It worked fine and gave me no issues. Did not modify the rack internals, I just removed the PS pump and related lines. The lines at the rack were looped and one was sent up the firewall. I used an aftermarket remote reservoir filled with ball bearings to serve as a vent breather. Don't think I would do it to my Subarus but for what you are looking to do it might be good.
I've also ran 2 cars without power steering & a truck.
1 was a JDM Civic SiR, I did the same and just removed the lines/pump & made a breather, it was pretty easy but the car was light
1 was a 98 Grand Prix (daily driver) it was a heavy 3400lb car so it was tougher but once you got moving everything was fine, just the pump went and I hated that car so I never fixed it lol
The truck was an old *** Dodge pickup that never even had power steering ahha same deal as the GP once you got moving it was alright.

I'm in pretty good shape & I've read that when you remove the inner seals it's completely night & day vs. just looping the lines. However the only thing I'm worried about is the quick rack ratio will make it tougher and I will get wider front wheels eventually. So what I think I am going to do, is take my power steering belt off drive like that for a few hours and do a few canyon style roads at decent speed to see how I like it. I'm going to say that without removing the seals that the turning will still be slightly tougher than with the quicker rack and wider tires with the seals removed. Most people who have done the de-power rack the full correct way on RX7, S13, S15 have said they love it and can't go back... I'm not drifting and I'm doing road courses/drag racing not Auto X (I don't like Auto X too many tight turns in a small space I don't enjoy it) Also I need to make it serviceable to be able to add grease like once a year so I might find a way to put a grease nipple in the rack.

Thanks for your input, looking forward to more. Any problems/findings I face will be noted in this thread so that people can see what it took to do the full swap beginning to end. I'm going to document really well so that even people new to cars will understand
 

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Subscribed for pure interest !! This stuff is way beyond my capabilities but I can read pictures well lol. Glad you'll put that steering joint to good use. I have an 07 STI rack in my SG, had the matching crossmember installed same time. This is the first I've heard that we could have used the old style crossmember but that doesn't mean its not possible.

BTW - I do have a rear Ver9 STI crossmember sitting on the shelf. Do you want some detailed pictures so you can see for yourself what it looks like compared to your SF's ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Yea, thanks for the rack! The front or rear cross member?

Also, can I put a GD rear subframe in the SF? I found one for a wicked deal locally I will buy it if it's possible. Just to clarify, when you say rear crossmember you are talking subframe right? Not the rear tranny crossmember or T bar ?
 

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I have seen side-by side photos a few times of the Forester and Impreza rear cross members. Pretty sure there are some side by side photos in another member's journal (sooblover?) sort of rings a bell. It is noted that the rear cross member is not REQUIRED for doing the sub-spacer removals, I am inclined to agree. I still think if I was doing the change I would just go all out and swap the rear cross member while I was there.
I also recall the Impreza one that was installed in that journal being a GD version. I'm pretty inclined to think the GD rear cross members are interchangeable. The only differences are the height change, exhaust hanger position, and the GD used a "mustache" bar to mount the rear diff. The GC rear cross member has the rear diff bolted directly to it. So a GD rear diff cover has shorter studs since it goes through steel plate instead of pressed in bushings.
Ah ha, here we go I was able to find those pretty quickly:
>Forester -vs- GD STI rear cross member<
>Forester -vs- GD rear cross member heights<
>Forester -vs- GD STI outrigger<


No worries, I checked the scoop dust I had around and my guess on the rubber thickness are pretty close. I think something can be cobbled together to work for your interim. After that the Grimmspeed one will probably work great, does it fit the cutout on the Forester hood? I thought the Forester scoop was more like the GC Imprezas than the GD Imprezas.

I was always hung up on the steering linkages so your info and the results you find will be good to know. Su the extra length might be due to that longer spline section? Interesting. I had always thought there were numerous combinations depending on what the setup is.....this makes it confusing to figure out what someone really did.
1)Forester length and splines - oem
2)Forester length and different splines - for a GD rack swap
3)Impreza length and same splines - removed sub-spacers and GC rack
4)Impreza length and different splines - removed sub-spacers and GD rack swap
5, 6, 7, etc.)Then the whole rubber isolator vs non-isolator differences

I will post up what I find in this thread but again probably not getting to my trans swap for another week or two.

I agree simple has it's advantages. Just wanted to note that it was a possibility. It often gets refuted on forums without any good supporting data or first hand experience. (Off Track for this Thread) The real PITA I have been having is confirming going the other way, 2005+ rack in a 2004 cross member.

I agree, my EG with the de-powered rack was just fine to drive. Even at no speed/low speed with wider/sticky tires it wasn't impossible. Like you said a heavier car with wide tires might make that a bit more effort. I sort of wish I would have tried the internal seal removal now. That was pretty far back though, the concept wasn't matured to that degree back then.

"...so that people can see what it took to do the full swap beginning to end."
That right there is what is usually missing from threads. the difference between an ok thread and a great resource. If you end up needing that post #4 let me know, I can shift my response to this one and open that up for you. And btw thanks, I was really looking for a decent tech discussion thread to start up. I really enjoy parts interchange topics.
 

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Yea, thanks for the rack! The front or rear cross member?

Also, can I put a GD rear subframe in the SF? I found one for a wicked deal locally I will buy it if it's possible. Just to clarify, when you say rear crossmember you are talking subframe right? Not the rear tranny crossmember or T bar ?

That would be the rear subframe and I found a couple of pics I took earlier.




 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's a great addition to the thread. One thing I wonder though, of the links you posted none of those rear sub frames are from an SF? Although I don't doubt the same findings would be found on an SF, it would be nice to be certain getting some side by side shots of an SF vs GD rear sub frame. I'm going to ask one of the guys in Australia if he'll do this since he is just about to swap his out.
Also, it's nice to see from the pictures that all the STi stuff is much beefier than the Forester stuff, a benefit to be had there as well. However this is probably at the slight sacrifice of weight.
Which for me, means this project is going to take much longer than I anticipated. Now I'm all horny for the TSS tubed chromoly frames. Seeing as I'd only like to do this project once and go hard right off the get go, I think I'm going to wait until I can afford all the TSS stuff.
I'm not entirely sure how long that will be, it depends on the rest of my life. I'm not in any crazy rush or anything. What I'm buying in a few days here is going to be my programmable EMS which I feel is a little more important than this, than this is going to follow, I'll stay on topic though just bringing that up because if I didn't need to get that next I would probably be picking up a tubed sub frame. It's gonna have to be one at a time with those babies it won't be cheap hah.

TSS Front sub-frame, Transmission cross-member, Rear sub-frame, all the arms


TSS Rear diff cradle


I still think if I was doing the change I would just go all out and swap the rear cross member while I was there.
Challenge accepted :Banane35:

Thank you Legacy, that's a great view of the sub-frame
 

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I'm really interested in this depowering of the steering rack.
 

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Yea I hear you about the lack of SF specific comparisons, that opens up some level of uncertainty for sure. I'll try to add any SF specific info I can.....as I get my hands on those parts and some time. Not in a really hurry myself but I think we can collect SF specific info farily quickly.
The tubular stuff is nice but I always have subliminal reserve. I tend to be overly cautious though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm really interested in this depowering of the steering rack.
Stay tuned for the info, rack is in the mail :) Next step is taking my power steering belt off and driving around with it for a couple days to make sure I will be able to handle it (this will be harder so if I can handle that then I'm sure the de-powering will be no sweat)

Yea I hear you about the lack of SF specific comparisons, that opens up some level of uncertainty for sure. I'll try to add any SF specific info I can.....as I get my hands on those parts and some time. Not in a really hurry myself but I think we can collect SF specific info farily quickly.
The tubular stuff is nice but I always have subliminal reserve. I tend to be overly cautious though.
I actually was too at first, but I've seen multiple photos of cars with TSS entire under carriages flying/landing off 10 foot jumps & rallying through the pits of hell... I don't have many worries about them for a street/track car that won't barely ever see water let alone snow/mud/rocks/gravel/jumps. It won't be happening in a short period of time though that's for certain. About $800 for the rear sub-frame, $1200 for the front, $430 for the transmission cross-member & $430 for the rear diff cradle. However,... You will probably become Go Kart after this if you get good arms/coils to match it all.
 

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1992 Forester S 5MT
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147 Posts
Subscribed. I've been looking at those TSS pieces for a while and have been wondering if they'd all fit. I definitely want to be sure before I spend over $4000 on all of it. Lol
 

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MY02 GT w/STI Drivertrain 6MT
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293 Posts
Credit for image and information? :icon_wink:

Now for my rack swap. I have found a 2004 GD STi V7 Spec C quick ratio steering rack. Which is 13:1 steering ratio, compared to the (what I have read) 19:1 steering ratio of the SF Forester.

Even though my rack is different, many people will benefit from swapping in a WRX or STi rack which (again from what I have read) are 15:1 ratio. So not quite a "quick rack" but still quicker.

In order to do this the problem is that the splines on the WRX STi rack are different than the splines on the SF / GC rack. As well as the splines coming off the steering columns.
In order to fit these racks, you must have the steering knuckle mate to both the steering column and the steering rack. So you essentially need the top splines GC style & the lower splines GD style. IF you are removing the spacers, you can buy that L&E pre-built link. If not, you need to take your SF steering joint, remove the top U and swap it on to an STi solid GD link. You'll notice on the SF the top U is longer, which makes up the length difference, swapping it onto the GD link will make the STi link the same length as the Foresters (within 1mm)

Another thing you should know, is that you must get a 2004 or earlier rack, because it is not a "direct mount" rack. If you get 2005 or later, you will need to buy/swap the rack AND the cross member.
Also, I believe that with GD racks, you will have to work with patients to get the power steering lines to fit nicely since they are not at the same angles.

(this is not a problem for me since I am "de-powering" my rack) which comes next...
 

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1997 Forester S/tb 5 speed
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1,350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Bringing this back from the dead, yes the highlighted info was absolutely brought to me by Waali (in fact A LOT of great info for me has come from the Australia forum as they have had turbo SF Foresters since they were new so they are not so rare over there it's a great place for anybody to join looking for more info on stuff). So this entire thing sort of went on the back burner as other things took it's place. However I will slowly be bringing it back. I've since installed a Spec-C quick rack with a custom built GD steering joint cut & welded to a SF steering column "U". I also relocated the power steering fluid reservoir from directly ontop of the pump to the side so that I could fit a larger turbo inlet (decided not to delete power steering).

So I will SLOWLY be updating this thread haha. So far All I have for this project is Brembo callipers front/rear & STi aluminum control arms. Slowly but surely she'll come along... ... oh wait I lied, I also have a 6-speed shift knob! LMAO.
 
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