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Thanks, I’ll save the link you shared, on mine there are no lights whatsoever (driving lights or active state light) but hopefully changing the switch is going to solve both the lighting and the 2nd position heating.
I also have window wind noise, I tried putting som additional insulation under the door gussets and it reduced the noise, but I think I also have to change the mirror mounts to cancel or at least reduce the noise.


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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Drained a half qt of atf just to be safe. No real problems with binding. At full lock theres a bit of lumpyness but im not stressing that on a 15 year old car.

Replaced the passenger window motor. Old one that was dying a slow death shown below. The wind noise issue is solved! Its still an SG forester so not a quiet car at high speed, but reasonable now.
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The motor was not too bad to replace. Last time I had my mechanic do it, but tried it this time. You need a large phillips 1/4" bit (the large one that comes in those typical bit sets that wont fit any normal screws), and a 1/4" ratchet and socket, and theres enough clearance to get out the 3 screws with that. At one point I thought i had stripped the screw head and was "screwed", but tried a newer less worn bit of same size and it got it out. Be sure to loosen the bolts holding in the whole mechanism so the motor can come free. Also i had to solder on the connector from my car as the motor I got off amazon for $60 was for another car. Works great!


Thanks, I’ll save the link you shared, on mine there are no lights whatsoever (driving lights or active state light) but hopefully changing the switch is going to solve both the lighting and the 2nd position heating.
I also have window wind noise, I tried putting som additional insulation under the door gussets and it reduced the noise, but I think I also have to change the mirror mounts to cancel or at least reduce the noise.


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I would not be surprised if a new switch fixed yours, if you take the switch apart youll see theres stuff that can go wrong with the mechanism, relies on spring pressure to make the electrical contact.

Fyi my mirror mount was mangled, had been broken off at some point, thats why i swapped mine. Im not certain it will help with noise unless its really jacked up, just wanted to throw that out there so i dont lead you or anyone astray! The gusset replacement and window motor (so window fully rolls up) did the trick. In my other forester, replacing the gussets alone made a HUGE difference. And that was after i had tried a bunch of tricks that helped some. Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Makes me want to add a Turbo on mine. Nice work, really like the car!
Thank you! Yes i know the feeling from years of ongoing 03X ownership. Cant wait for the tune to happen so i can truly experience the turbo (be it increased power or increased $$$ for a new engine, depending on the outcome)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So the car ventilation did not stink or anything, but i wanted to change the cabin filter just as due diligence with this being an older, questionably maintained car until now.

If you're eating lunch, skip these pics!
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old filter...
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Never seen one this bad. This fan blows much more freely now, and there's the peace of mind knowing i've got a clean charcoal filter in there. Change your cabin filter on any used car PRONTO!
 

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Hahah...that’s a nicely glazed filter, I also have to inspect and probably change mine, I don’t know how old it is.
About the switch I need to take it out and test if it’s broken or not and also change the lights.
About the mirror thing, I thought the gussets that are on the mirror piece go together, that rubber part that goes around the glass next to the mirror is the main culprit of the noise from what I understand.



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Discussion Starter #28
Hahah...that’s a nicely glazed filter, I also have to inspect and probably change mine, I don’t know how old it is.
About the switch I need to take it out and test if it’s broken or not and also change the lights.
About the mirror thing, I thought the gussets that are on the mirror piece go together, that rubber part that goes around the glass next to the mirror is the main culprit of the noise from what i understand
Youre right it's the gusset that goes around front of glass that makes the main noise. The mount i changed additionally is more like part of the mirror itself (i got the part by buying a mirror and taking it from that) and not usually changed.
 

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Welcome to the world of XT!
Is this car now your daily?

I daily mine and have done some small mods but really only functional/convenience and aesthetic, unless something breaks then I try to upgrade it with a performance part - which I’ve done a few times in my 3 years of ownership. In the years to come I hope to do more if it lasts me!

Your small bio says auto and manual? Is that to do with the engine swap? Random but your profile photo looks oddly similar to mine at first glance and I was getting confused as I scrolling through!

Great journal so far! Makes me want to start one officially myself. Looking forward to more posts. Subscribed :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #32
@kjohannes Thanks so much for the kind words! Officially this is my 2nd beater/fun car (3rd in household), but lets just say that my true daily driver, a 2016 Mazda 3 2.5L manual tranny, is probably getting a bit jealous while i baby and honeymoon this XT! It's hard not to choose it every morning when you just fixed something the night before.

This car is an auto, and always was. My daughter's forester (used to be mine) is a manual 03X.

I highly recommend starting a journal - they are fun to read and you can pretty much post anything your heart desires without cluttering up the "what did you do today thread" with every little thing lol.

My drivers seat is jacked up, but i refuse to buy another seat until after the tune. I just want to take it easy on spending until the core of car is 100%. I decided to use part of an old seat cover to fix it up in the meantime (old seat covers are hella handy to have around!)

This is after sanding down the previous "leather repair kit" repair to get a decent surface to glue on...
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so i covered that area in black shoe goo, placed a piece of faux leather from the cover over it, then as it started drying cut out the shape with a box cutter, adding more shoe goo under the very edges....turned out halfway decent i'd say, until the seat can be replaced.
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Discussion Starter #33
Went out and took a bunch of more decent looking pics today. Many attached, a few in full size here


 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Few more things today...

1. Replaced the oring on the low pressure AC compressor hose. Put in a bit of compressor oil, then a can of refridgerant, and the AC has stayed charged all day at least! Will see how it goes but at least the obvious leak is fixed.

I got a box of various orings for $10 on amazon for this repair. Very handy to have around. I may redo the AVCS sensor now that i have the correct oring from this purchase, even though it has not leaked since MacGyvering it with what i had around when I initially found the leak.

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2. Located a small exhaust leak at the union from the downpipe to midpipe. Just need to replace the gasket, should quiet the car down some.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
3 days later and AC is working and blowing cold! Crazy it just needed a $1 part. You could tell it had been out of service for ages when the compressor first came back to life. After some oiling it's quiet and cold!

Got an uppipe, will likely install next week. Im told it will help generate boost sooner, which i do want for daily driving, plus no more death cat before the turbo. Its a generic one made for this engine. Will see how it fits and decide if it stays.

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Discussion Starter #37
Sharp Forester, I had one just like it.
Thank you!

Tonight fixed the exhaust leak, car is a bit quieter and more civilized. Also car threw a p0171 code today. Turned out some intake piping was not snug so im hoping thats all it was - seems to match the problem. Plus still needs a tune so plenty of reasons that would have shown up.

Also installed an extra usb power source up in the top cubby for phone storage charging. All wires nicely tucked way.

You can easily fish a wire from that top cubby to the fuse box by only taking off that top cubby, which is gravy. Just gotta dangle the wire a bit from up top and reach from under the footwell with your arm and youll be able to pull it through. Didnt want to take off the center trim again after the other recent installs around there.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
After a day with the family around 4pm i was contemplating whether to put the uppipe in or not, both at all and if so today. Went ahead and got to work.

here's the new pipe, an ebay special w/ EGT bung.
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First thing was to get the EGT sensor off the stock one since it looked like a pain and I thought it would get hung up when removing the uppipe. Mine was a bit warped at the hex head, so 13mm was too small and 14mm was stripping it. Plus it's way down under the turbo. Eventually gave up and decided to try if I could get the uppipe out.

Here's the removed exhaust header
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Put the car on jack stands, took off the exhaust header and unscrewed all the piping down there with minimal drama. o2 sensor removed and the wheelwell cover for extra access. Removed the down pipe and turbo uppipe nuts.

Then tried getting the uppipe out with engine in place. Wasn't happening, even though COBB says it's possible. Anyway I unbolted the passenger motor mount, jacked up the engine with a 2x4 and jack, and got the uppipe out. :woohoo: First time ever moving an engine for me - easy peasy! Seriously, if you made it this far, you are qualified to jack up the engine to get the needed clearance. The mount may not line up with the engine after you let the jack down. Just use a pry bar to line up the flexible mount and start the bolt.

After that, got the old uppipe on the bench and manhandled the EGT sensor out, and installed it in the new uppipe. The current wrench size for my EGT sensor is vicegrip-mm. :laugh:

Here's the old uppipe

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And here's the notorious cat inside it that will supposedly come apart and destroy your turbo or worse...mine looked decent.
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After that, the install and reassembly was pretty straightforward. The new uppipe can be easily installed with engine in place. Plenty of clearance. Then just got all the bolts on the turbo, uppipe, and header started before tightening anything. Used new gaskets in most places. Then tightened everything up and it all fit and apparently sealed nicely. then reinstalled the downpipe and o2 sensor, put the wheel well cover and wheel back on, and got ready to start up the car.:icon_eek:

Car starts, sounds good! Don't see any leaks so i take the car for a spin. No CEL. Boost indeed does seem to come on sooner using torque to monitor it. Still no CEL after getting back from test drive. Job done!!

So now I feel even more prepped for this tune on the 27th - no chance of the old cat ruining the party and the turbo should spool a bit easier.

:woohoo: :woohoo:

If you are considering this job - it IS a pretty big job. took me about 4-5 hours including a couple breaks and 30mins wasted screwing around with EGT sensor at first, but don't let jacking up the engine deter you, that part is far from difficult or time consuming. You can also remove the turbo instead, but I much prefer jacking up the engine for 2 minutes to dealing with all that.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
No wrapping. Would have been nice while i was in there - I have a roll of the stuff laying around from my 03X headers - but now that it's in, there will be no wrap unless there's another reason to take this area apart again. For Cobb's similar non-flex uppipe, they answer someone's question about this as no wrapping required.
 
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