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Discussion Starter #1
So I should have done this a while ago and thanks to encouragement from @NinoS and @Blingstrom here it is! I’m mobile now so I won’t post much for my first post but what I’ll do later is go back and link some other threads I started when I first bought the car. It definitely wasn’t the easiest process to go through! But overall things are fine now :) and I enjoy driving the car daily! Maybe one day it will turn into my 3rd car and become more of a project but for now I’m focused on reliability and modding/upgrading when things break and fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I installed the roof rack with bike trays today. In the winter I remove them and install the oem cross bars. I enjoy having the Thule system on the car for many reasons. But one of them is looks! I have a bunch of stickers on the trays and really think it adds to the personality of the car.

Another thing I completed was re greasing the gas pedal. It was really “sticky” in that when I would press down or let up on the gas while driving, it would stick for a second and then jump up or jump down. So it was hard to make small adjustments on speed. I hated the feeling and I knew it wasn’t good for mpg. I had tried spraying all kinds of grease times before but it never fixed it.

So I removed the assembly and set to taking it apart! I removed the old grease and then tried some general poly lube with some tri flow mixed in (used in cycling). But it was the same after testing in my hand. So I removed the new grease and used some high temp automotive grease in a tub. Worked like a charm! Smooth as it should be.

One thing I was afraid of was not getting the electric contacts for the pedal position back in the same place. After a little trial and error I think I was able to get it lined up with where the little board was set originally. I started her up to let it warm up. Idle seems the same and the gas pedal is smooth! I forgot to take photos of the process for the journal. That’s something I’ll have to remember to do!

Time will tell if it needs more adjustment. But I’m glad to have that done!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Modding suggestions!

Looking to do some sort of mod with some saved cash. But I can’t make up my mind!

I have a longish list but can really only do 1-2 things depending on deals I get.

Any advise or suggestions? I would like this mod to be something I can “experience” regularly.

Tint?
Uppipe?
Engine bay dress up? Less likely.
Sti tmic?

Nothing that requires a tune at this point. No AP.

Any suggestions are appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I ended up buying a homelink mirror from @BTI_Bob here on the forum. Installed it yesterday and it works great! Not a performance mod by any means but definitely something that I will use every day!

I may get some other parts in the near future.

Last weekend I did a front and rear dif oil change. No idea the last time it was done from PO. I think I could feel a difference when coasting. Not sure if it was just in my head...

I also changed engine oil and filter and installed an fumoto valve.
 

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Looking to do some sort of mod with some saved cash. But I can’t make up my mind!

I have a longish list but can really only do 1-2 things depending on deals I get.

Any advise or suggestions? I would like this mod to be something I can “experience” regularly.

Tint?
Uppipe?
Engine bay dress up? Less likely.
Sti tmic?

Nothing that requires a tune at this point. No AP.

Any suggestions are appreciated!
Welcome aboard!

From that list I would go with tint, it makes a huge difference and I'm annoyed at myself for not getting around to it yet haha. I've done basically everything else at this point...

Other than that, if you're looking for budget-oriented mods, I would 100% recommend a thicker/stiffer rear sway bar to everyone with a subaru. There are many options but tried and true pathways. In general get an STI bar and you might be ok with just that. Any thicker and you'll likely need beefier mounts and end links.

It makes a massive difference to handling, at stock height or lowered (if that's what you want to do in future). I dropped my car over 3 different times (stock -> KYB+swift springs -> WRX shocks -> WRX shocks with STI pink springs) and realised I should have just gone to the STI pink springs/wrx shocks right from the start! Anyway... rear sway bar!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the reply @mosquitocoils !

I think tint is a good idea too. The current tint is blue-ish and from the PO.

I can’t decide if I want to lower, raise or keep at stock. So for now stock it is lol. An STi RSB has been something on my list for a while! I couldn’t remember if I needed upgraded mounts for it or not at stock height.

Maybe I can find a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
CEL and repair (P0021)

I drove home from work last Friday to have the CEL pop on. Annoyed because around the same time I had a terrible rattle under the car and also a grinding noise that I needed to look into.

TLDR:
I removed a heat shield on the passenger exhaust manifold that was rattling (bolts broke off) and the grinding must have been a rock or something caught in the brakes as it went away and never returned. Cam gears replaced to fix the code.

Long story:
I cleared the code over the weekend but it came back 20 miles later. It was idling so rough the whole car was shaking and it was very rough just off and on the throttle. Had me pretty scared as to what damage was being done. My normal shop was full so I called a local Subaru guru part of our area Subaru group. He was gracious to take me in.

He checked the solenoid for the passenger side AVCS and it checked out good. Replaced with a used one in good condition anyways and timing improved but not fixed. Tore into the cam gears and found the pin hole was wallored out pretty bad (both passenger and driver sides).

He can service the cam gears just like outfront motor sports due to his collection of replacement parts. He replaced the gears with used ones in good condition and serviced and cleaned them up. Reinstalled.

I should be able to pick it up today! Thankful for his expertise. I may post photos later.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
DIY TGV Delete and P2007 code

So once the AVCS code was fixed by replacing the cam gears and solenoids, I figured I'd be good for a while...not the case. :frown2:

End of last week, I got a P2007 code about the intake manifold being stuck closed. Googled around and found that the motors and sensors can often go bad. Further research led me to TGV DIY deletes. I figured that would be the way to go since my car was in limp mode for too long. And since my car repair fund was dry from the cam gear replacement and I daily it, I wasn't left with much choice other than tear into the manifold myself. I decided I would do the simplest form of delete by removing the butterfly valves and keeping the bars installed with motors and sensors. I also did not port it since I have no provision for a tune right now and I just wanted to get my car back on the road.

This has been something I've wanted to do for some time to learn more. However, I wish 1) I had more time and not been under the gun and 2) been more prepared with aftermarket and OEM replacement parts (namely a new turbo inlet and STI manifold, and option to port the TGVs with a tune, oh and OEM gaskets). But I knew it had to be done this weekend so away I went. Shout out to @Blingstrom for his intake manifold write up, it was helpful along with other forum posts here and on NASIOC (plus the trusty FSM).

I sourced good used motors and sensors from a local Facebook Subaru group member. Found out later the motors did not fit (maybe for an EJ20 not 255. So I reinstalled the originals. I would have bought them anyway even if we knew they were slightly different at the time of purchase. Wouldn't have wanted to take the chance.

A friend and I went to work on removing the intake. It was crazy how many plugs, connectors, and hoses there was to remove (and then REINSTALL)! But overall I learned so much about the car and was able to tighten up the fuel lines under the intake. Hopefully that will remove the fuel smell in the winter.

The actual removal of the butterfly valves took all of 20 minutes once the TGVs were off the manifold.

Reinstalling the passenger side of the manifold was probably the worst part. The gaskets I got from the local auto parts store were not an exact OEM fit, so I had to trim them and they did not have holes for the alignment pins. Needless to say, I won't make that mistake again. Thank goodness for long screwdrivers.

Everything went back together well and the car is running great so far! No CELs or anything. And if it does come back, I'll know it's the motor since the sensors are newer. And my car will be drivable since the valves are gone. Shout out to my friend who stayed to help the entire day! I wouldn't have finished without him. We started at 11:30am and finished at 9:30pm. However that does include 2.5 hours of driving to go get the parts and back.

I apologize for the seemingly haphazard way I wrote this up. I wish I had the time and patience to do write ups like others here. If I have time, I will upload some photos!:grin2:
 
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