Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner
141 - 160 of 562 Posts

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Have you noticed if the engine sounds any quieter since adding the dynamat to hood/wheel wells? also does general road noise sound better? thx
I am really struggling to notice a difference. The biggest challenge I have is that I replaced the stock muffler with the LeChute muffler. This added more performance sound. Most of my noise is coming from that area and not the hood area. All I can say for sure is that the work I did under the hood and front fenders did not seem to dampen the noise coming from teh back of the car. With that said, I really can't say that it didn't work either becuase the noise from teh rear of the car overpowers all other road noise.

I do have plans to add more deadening materials and I plan to do some wrapping directly around the area where the muffler is located and under the floor boards. I am hoping that this quiets the added noise. I really like the sound of the LeChute, but the wife is not a fan. If I can make it quieter from teh inside and still sound cool on the outside, that would be awesome.
 

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #142 ·
I completed the switch over from HAT speakers to the Critical Mass series. I am really impressed with this speaker lineup. I am using the best speaker in their 3.5” size, the RS3. Of the three speakers I have impressive. However, for me this hobby is really about testing, trying, breaking, modifying and tossing in the occasional oh ****, for good or bad.

I am using the RS69 thin speaker for the front doors and the RS6 for the rear doors. All these speakers feature carbon fiber cones and integrated high end tweeters. As I posted previously, one of the tests I wanted to perform was changing the front door crossover ranges to see if these speakers can improve the center stage and stereo separation. The HAT U69 speakers were running as a midbass with a bandpass crossover set at 50-315Hz. I tried the C.mass at this frequency range first. It provided a really nice midbass response. Super crisp and clean. However, I would say that the U69 pushed more air and was louder. The issue I had with the U69 is that it tended to overexert. I think the cone would hit the speaker grill and on very bass heavy songs it would rattle and sound poor. I really think I could have modified the adapter plates to move them further backwards, but I am not going to keep them. I really like the design of the RS69 thin speakers. These are shallow and stay away from the glass. The U69s also cleared, but they were much closer to touching the glass. The other benefit of the RS6 is that they produce great midbass without overextending and they actually add to the imaging and staging in this car. I ended up running the crossover as a bandpass from 80-16kHz. This is the best sounding front stage vehicle I have ever built. I am truly a fan of these speakers. The C.mass amps are sitting at the UPS store awaiting my pickup and it is killing me. I hope to install those this weekend to replace the JL Audio amps.

As I installed the C.mass speakers I added foam sound deadener to the outer door skins to further enhance the deep bass sounds in the doors. I also swapped out the poorly made wood speaker adapters with some plastic adapters. Here are the photos:

C.Mass Install-1: This is the front door adapter plate. These are made by Metra for Toyotas and Lexus model 82-8146. These fit the Forester perfectly and I was able to use the factory screw receptacles.

C.Mass Install-2: C.mass RS69 thin mount speaker. Beautiful front cone and very large integrated tweeter.

C.Mass Install-3: Back side of the RS69, which use a steel basket and neodymium magnets. A big improvement over the plastic baskets and traditional magnets on the Unity speakers. I thought these would be fine, but when mounting the plastic speakers, they tend to crack when tightening.

C.Mass Install-4: I cut the foam to fit several sections of the outer door panel and used 3M spray adhesive on the backside of the foam. Then I attached the foam to the panel. I did not cover the entire panel, but I would say I cover 60% in the front doors and 50% in the rear doors. I concentrated on the sections right behind the speakers. It really worked well at providing more sound quality and less door vibration heard from outside the vehicle.

C.Mass Install-5: Speaker installed with plastic adapters. I wanted to add a layer of foam to the outer ring of the speaker, like the factory speakers so that the foam would prevent vibrations when the door panel is installed. However, these barely fit and the door panels firmly touch the speaker outer ring. I do not get any vibration and the speaker does not touch the grills on deep bass notes like the U69s. I will keep monitoring this as I may make some changes in the future.

C.Mass Install-6: I installed foam in the rear doors and a little more Dynamat around the speaker mounts.

C.Mass Install-7: I used plastic adapters for the rear doors as well. These were sold as fitting the Subaru Impreza, Baja and Legacy. The mount locations looked right in the photos, but they do not line-up with the factory mounting receptacles. In general these were too small. So, to mount these I had to screw into the door panel metal, and these barely fit. I will likely go back and use Dynamat over the top of these or try to replace them.

C.Mass Install-8: After mounting the speakers to the plastic adapters I was able to add foam to prevent the vibration between the speaker and the door grill.

C.Mass Install-9: Here is a comparison of the RS3 thin speaker and the RS3 models. The RS3 has a larger tweeter and uses a combination of neo and standard magnets.

C.Mass Install-10: There is a height difference between these two speakers. The RS3 just barely fit on the passenger side. I did have to use a dremel to shave a little plastic tab in order to get the magnet to clear and enable the speaker to sit flush on the dash ring.

C.Mass Install-11: Backside view. RS3 thin mount uses neo magnets and RS3 uses both neo and traditional magnets.
C.Mass Install-13: What I really like about the RS3 speaker is that the mounting locations match perfectly with the Forester. The U69 and the RS3 thin mount speakers did not fit and I had to anchor the speakers awkwardly to the ring, but finding a good location was a challenge because the dash opening is not symmetrical.

C.Mass Install-14: Once everything was trimmed and ready, I stuffed fiberfill into the dash area. Which this is not necessary, I do run these speakers with a HP of 315Hz and they will produce some decent cone movement. The dash area underneath the speaker is not sealed. You can actually see all the way down to the floorboard. So, I added the fiberfill.

C.Mass Install-15: Mounted. Looks great.

C.Mass Install-16: The dash speaker grill fits, but it did rub on the tweeter grill, so I used the dremel to shave this down just a tad and it fits perfectly. No appearance changes to the grill when in place.
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #143 ·
The next mod project post will be the stock subwooffer retrofit. I don't have to post this tonight, but I really think it will work. I mounted an 8" sub with an adapter ring. I think it sit too far forward and will end up hitting the grill on movement.

The C.Mass SS82 sub I bought used ended up being damaged. So, I am returning it and I bout an Alpine Reference Series 8" sub. This looks great, but I think it may need the adapter ring too.

The best part is that the box is acutally a very good size for some aftermarket subs, but not all. It turns out that 0.34 cuft is perfect for the Alpine sub and a newly released C.Mass CM-EW8DV2, This is a dual voice coil 2 ohm x 2 ohm driver with carbon cone and full neo magnets. It is so damn sexy that I just could not pass up the chance to try it out. The best part for me is that it has a very small mounting depth compared to the SS82 and the outer mounting ring is larger. This means that I may be able to drop it directly into the stock enclosure without having to use adapters. This also means that it will sit further backwards and the cone will be less likely to smack the grill on movement.

Here are some photos of that sexy beast!

The last photo shows the SS82 in the stock box with adapter ring and being powered. The movement on that 8" sub is insane. I do not think the new C.Mass sub will have as much movement, but I hope it does. I may have to compare it to the Alpine sub. Time will tell. I hope I can work on it this weekend.
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #144 ·
The amps arrived. The car is in tons of pieces. I stripped the seats and carpet. Since I had to do an amp switch over, I thought this would be a good time to pull the center console and carpet to lay down some Dynamat. I have about 20 full sheets installed already. I swear this stuff shrinks. :) It takes a lot more than you think. I have installed two Mega packs and had some other materials used for the doors.

I got the amps installed, but not powered up yet. I should be able to set all the gains and do a tuning tomorrow if everything works.
 

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #147 ·
I have a few project updates to post tonight. But, first I wanted to start off by sharing a few photos of the goods.

I wish my ears were pieced. If they were, I would dangle these amps from my ear lobes, put on some high heels and a fancy dress and go dancing. These are beautiful!!! Now I know how my wife feels after buying her some fancy jewelry.

:bling:

:bananapowerslide:

:bling:

Hand made in USA. CM-AUE1500.4. Four channel amp x 2. One for each ear. And they BARELY fit under the seats.
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #148 ·
This project was to install Dynamat under the carpet area and to add on some more material to the rear seat deck.

In this post I will also detail how to remove the center console. Let's start there.

Dynamat Under Carpet-1: Photo of everything in place. This is actually the end photo after putting everything back.

Dynamat Under Carpet-2: The first step is to remove the shifter boot. Use a firm pull on the collar then remove this clip in red.

Dynamat Under Carpet-3: Shifter and shaft have been removed. Now put the clip back in place so you don't lose it. I am really talking to myself here.

Dynamat Under Carpet-4: Now lift out the USB tray and shifter console. I use a flat blade screwdriver to get the USB started, then use hands to remove. Held in with blue push fasteners. For the shifter console start at the front and pull up. Do not use tools. Then work your way backwards. It's a been tricky to remove the rear section, so don't torque the front up too high. Just pull it up to unseat the pop fasteners then work your way to the armrest area.
Once removed you will have 2 bolts to remove from the rear and 4 screws. These are marked in red. Once the bolts and screws are out, the arm rest box will separate from the mid section and the side panels will also come off the midsection.

Dynamat Under Carpet-5: Here is a better view of the two screws that hold the side panels to the midsection. The screws are already out in this photo. Now you can unbuckle the plastic tab locking the side panels and remove them both. Do not unscrew the two screws marked with an X. These hold the vinyl trim to the side panels.

Dynamat Under Carpet-6: After I got the car back from the audio shop, one of the many things they screwed up on my car was this side panel. They could not get it to seat right and it stuck out a 1/4inch from the center console and looked bad. When I took the panel off, I noticed that they crushed this slide tab. I was able to bend it back into position. It was a little mangled, but it works good enough to hold the panel and it slides in all the way and no more annoying gap.

Dynamat Under Carpet-6.3: Another specific chore I asked and paid the shop to do was to leave NO exposed wiring in the car. This is what I found under the passenger seat where they spliced into the harness for the RF 3.Sixty OEM interface DSP device. They also left a hug mess of sawdust and wire clippings under the seat. Have you ever heard of a shop vac!!! Drives me crazy. This is why I rarely let people work on my car when it comes to electronics and accessories.

Dynamat Under Carpet-6.5: I added some heat shrink for each wire pair then shrink wrapped that whole section.

Dynamat Under Carpet-7: There are typical fasteners to hold the carpet in place. The hard part was removing the carpet from the rear seat white plastic seat locks. I was tempted to just cut the carpet, but I know this would cause the carpet to flop out from under the seat and look awful. I could not figure out how to remove those locks, so I just used a flat blade screwdriver and pried the carpet up and around the white lock to free it. The first one took about 5 minutes and the second one took 15 seconds, once I figured it out. I don't have a photo of the seat locks, but it has a black lever on it which you have to pull in order to unlock the rear seat. It is super light and easy to remove.

Dynamat Under Carpet-10: Making progress with Dynamat. Most of the main sections are covered. Now I just need to go back in and add some of the smaller pieces. The carpet is really well matted and has some foam for raising the deck. This is much more substantial than my 09 carpet. This makes sense why this car is so much quieter. However, the bare metal floor is very hollow and thuddy sounding when tapping on it.

Dynamat Under Carpet-13: Now I have about 90% coverage. The floor sounds dead when tapping on it. I also added some more deadener to the rear seat deck.

Dynamat Under Carpet-14: The next step here was to prep some of the wiring and rerun some speaker wire and RCAs. This was the perfect time to do it since everything is out of the way. With the JL amps I had a 6 channel under the driver seat and a mono sub amp under the passenger seat. I am switching over to two 4 channel amps. The amp under the passenger seat will run the rear door and sub. The amp under the driver seat will run the dash and front door speakers.

Dynamat Under Carpet-15: The drivers area was tidied up too. The big regret I have now that everything is back together is that the 8 gauge power and ground cables were fine for the JL audio digital amps, but they are too small for the C.Mass class A/B amps. I need to fix this at some point. I may try to upgrade the ground wires tomorrow. That should be easy. I am getting a loud pop when turning the car off. So, hopefully changing the ground cables will fix this.
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Have you noticed if the engine sounds any quieter since adding the Dynamat to hood/wheel wells? also does general road noise sound better? thx
Okay, pleased to report that the road noise is way down!!! After I installed the Quadzilla horns they were not as loud as I hoped for. Today, while driving and blasting away at two people that cut me off, I took the opportunity say "hello, I'm right here." It dawned on me that the horns don't sound that loud because of the Dynamat and Dynapad that I installed under the hood. So, I did a garage test when I got home and yup those horns are loud! So, the Dynamat in the hood and fenders do help tremendously.

Now on to the road noise. While driving on the freeway, I barely hear the tires on the road. Very very quiet. After I added 7 sheets of Dynamat to the floor boards I also attended to the muffler area. On the outside of the car, I removed the heat shield and installed some left over Dynapad scraps and some Dynamat. I can still hear the exhaust sounds from the LeChute, but I imagine if I had the stock muffler on there, this car would be as quiet as some of the high end cars.

I also love the sound and feel of the doors and the dead effect when tapping on the exterior panels. I still need to attend to the roof, fenders and rear wheel well areas. Looks like I need to buy a third Bulk Pack of Dynamat. Dang it!

Here are some photos:

Dynamat Under Carpet-13: Lots of work, but results are worth it.

Dynamat Muffler Area-1: Heat shield removed and cleaned.

Dynamat Muffler Area-2: A little dirty under the heat shield but not bad.

Dynamat Muffler Area-3: Cleaned with alcohol.

Dynamat Muffler Area-4: I used scraps of the Dynapad left over from the hood install. Dynapad is heat and oil resistant, so it is a perfect fit for under the heat shield. I cut out sections where the 4 bolts go through.

Dynamat Muffler Area-5: I applied Dynamat directly to the underside of the sheet metal on the car.

Dynamat Muffler Area-8: Everything is back in place and buttoned up. Looks great and works pretty well.
 

Attachments

· Registered
2019 touring
Joined
·
12 Posts
amazing work. i've started sound deadening my '19. (using Noico) did the front fenders and under hood today. I def feel less engine rev. haven't gone on the freeway yet so can't really comment on road noise. my question to you is A) how long did that take to go under the carpet and take everything out. As someone not too car handy but not a total moron how much work you think that is and how difficult ? I agree with you that the car is fairly quiet from factory so just debating if it's worth ripping all that up or just doing the doors and spare well... great work and thanks for sharing btw.
 

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #151 ·
amazing work. i've started sound deadening my '19. (using Noico) did the front fenders and under hood today. I def feel less engine rev. haven't gone on the freeway yet so can't really comment on road noise. my question to you is A) how long did that take to go under the carpet and take everything out. As someone not too car handy but not a total moron how much work you think that is and how difficult ? I agree with you that the car is fairly quiet from factory so just debating if it's worth ripping all that up or just doing the doors and spare well... great work and thanks for sharing btw.
It was a lot easier than I thought. No specialty tools needed. It took about 30 minutes to get everything out and about 3 hours to install the mat. Of all the Dynamat I have added, I feel like the doors were the best choice for improving sound quality from the thumping door speakers and the floor was the best overall location to decrease road noise. It was better than hood and front fenders for sure.

I would do it again.
 

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #152 ·
I have two project posts to make this am and that should get me caught up. The first is the detail for the Critical Mass amplifier installation. I did this at the time of the carpet removal and Dynamat install.

Here are the photos and details for the amp install.

C.Mass Amp Install-1: These are class A/B amps. This is the Esoteric ESL series. They have an incredible single to noise ratio of about 119dB. Most other high end amps run around 105. I bought these from an install shop that does the work for C.Mass project builds. Sometimes they have leftovers. :woohoo: Good for me. Thats why you see the marking on the box for DEALER SHOW VEHICLE.

C.Mass Amp Install-5: I am running two 4 channel amps. One is running 4 channels at 150w at 4 ohms for the dash and front door speakers. The other amp is in mixed mode, running 150 watts for two rear door channels at 4 ohms and right now the other two channels are bridged for 600w at 2 ohms. The future plan if I use the C.Mass 8" 2 ohm dual voice coil sub is to run each voice coil with 300 watts at 2 ohms x two channels. Still nets 600 watts RMS.

C.Mass Amp Install-6: These amps are well built in the USA and tested before shipment.

C.Mass Amp Install-8: These amps just barely fit under the seat. The local shop had my JL digital amps mounted on top of the existing electronics, so I stayed with this theme. I may eventually come up with a better solution, but for now this is where they live. I built mounting trays made from MDF and painted them with black truck bed liner to match the interior and rear sub enclosure.

C.Mass Amp Install-9: This is the amp under the passenger seat. This one runs the rear door speakers and sub. This location also has the Rockford 3.Sixty processor and the factory HK amp. All the wires from the stock HU are tapped at this location and fed into the 3.Sixty processor.

C.Mass Amp Install-10: This is the side view of the passenger side amp. The 3.Sixty is located under here.

C.Mass Amp Install-11: Here is another look at both amps installed.

C.Mass Amp Install-12: This is a view of the front panel of the drivers side amp. This amp runs the dash and door speakers. On both amps, all the built in crossovers are turned off. I use the 3.Sixty for this function. All the input gains were set by voltmeter. 28 volts for this amp and 20volts/35 volts for the other amp which is running the rear door speakers and the sub in bridged mode.

C.Mass Amp Install-13: Both amps are wired and the console is going back into place. One thing I really like about these amps compared to the JL amps is that I can do all the tuning of gains without having to remove the seats. The adjustment knobs on the JL amps were on the top panel and there was not enough room to see and adjust with the seats in place. These are super easy to adjust.

C.Mass Amp Install-14: Final shot before the seat goes back into place.

RTA Tune_SPL_Test_3-16-19_C.mass_Alpine_SWS-10_TDFW_Max_Gain_Max_Boost_Vol20_107spl: I was hoping to get about 110 dB SPL with these new amps, but it sounds great and I am getting 107 SPL. This is my benchmark. If I can get around 105 SPL with the 8" subwoofer, then I will end up removing the 10 Alpine sub with custom enclosure and return to the all factory look and style. That would be as stealth as it gets for me.
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
2019 Forester Sport CVT
Joined
·
674 Posts
Discussion Starter · #153 ·
The second project update is the attempt to retrofit the stock HK subwoofer enclosure. I used a C.Mass SS82 subwoofer that I bought used. It was broken so I had to return it, but I have two subs on order. An Alpine Reference 8" sub and the C. Mass 8" neo sub. I bought the Alpine first, so it will likely go back, in fact it may not have been shipped yet. I am not sure what the delay is. The C. Mass sub should arrive tomorrow. Anyhow, this project post is really about discovering if the standard sub enclosure can be used and reattached to the car for that factory appearance. I believe the answer is YES!!!

Here are the details and photos:

In a previous post I talked about water testing the box. It came out to 0.34 cu.ft. This was quite small and I did not think many subs would fit. However, this is not the case. It turns out that this box volume is perfect for most 8" subs. The C.Mass SS82 was an exception and has a recommended sealed box volume of 0.6cu ft. The Alpine and C.Mass neo sub have a range from 0.15 to 0.50 with a recommendation at 0.35 cu.ft. So, this little stock box is perfect. Here are some details on the retrofit required. I will update this later with the new subs. But, the details here are to showcase the box an what needs to be don't to make it work with an aftermarket sub.

Subwoofer Retrofit-1: I used a premade MDF ring to adapt the new sub to this box. Not all rings are the same, so shop carefully. This one had an OD of 8.75" This was perfect to fit inside the raised sections. I also bought a 12x12 sheet of ABS plastic which I thought I needed to reach into the sections for the bolt holes. I may use this later, but there was just enough room on this ring that allowed me to countersink and drill into the plastic box.

Subwoofer Retrofit-2: Ring is mounted. Later after doing a sound test, there was air escaping from around the ring. So, if I were to use this ring, I would need to run a bead of silicone for sealing. You will also notice that I used a dremel to shave down the fins where this monster sub magnet would hit it.

Subwoofer Retrofit-3: A thin piece of foam is used to help seal to the box. But, it did not work. I will need silicone to make the seal if using a ring like this.

Subwoofer Retrofit-4: The MDF got a coat of black for protection and appearance. Here is the box with ring attached.

Subwoofer Retrofit-5: The speaker wire was ran through the stock grommet and I left the original wire in place. The box was stuffed with fiberfill.

Subwoofer Retrofit-6: SS82 sub was mounted and ready.

Subwoofer Retrofit-7: Here is a view of the stock wiring. The HK 9" sub is a dual voice coil 6 ohm sub. It runs 3 ohms when run in parallel. I drilled a hole for the speaker wire. If I use the C.Mass neo sub, I need to run two speaker wires into this grommet. I will detail that later.

Subwoofer Retrofit-8: Here is a view of the grommet inserted into the box.

Subwoofer Retrofit-9: Time for testing. I disconnected the Alpine 10" sub and connected this. The speaker was used and had a broken voice coil, but I was still able to use this for the test.

Subwoofer Retrofit-10: Another thing worth mentioning here. Look at how far up the speaker sits. I actually do not think this will work. The cone movement will end up hitting the factory grille when installed. One option is to use a router and rework the MDF ring so the sub sits lower. The other option is to use a speaker with less movement.

Subwoofer Retrofit-11: Too bad this sub was blown. It has a monster surround that moves a lot of air. You can see about 1" of movement in the cone.

Subwoofer Retrofit-12: This is the new C.Mass speaker that I hope to install.

Subwoofer Retrofit-13: Full neo magnets.

Subwoofer Retrofit-14: Much smaller mounting depth. No dremel work likely needed inside the box for this sub.

Subwoofer Retrofit-15: Here is a direct comparison of the SS82 sub and the CM-EW8DV2 sub.

Subwoofer Retrofit-16: Another comparison of the mounting ring. You can see the neo sub has a larger basket. This may solve all of my mounting problems. If this sub drops right into the box I may not need that MDF ring. Then the sub sits lower like the factory HK sub and there should be plenty of room for cone movement without hitting the speaker grille. The backup plan for this is to use the 12x12 plastic ABS sheet. I will cut this to fit the box mounting hole cutouts. Then I can seat the neo sub onto this thin ring. Seal it all with silicone and good to go.

Hopefully I will work on this next weekend.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Just got mine back from the tint shop. Matched the fronts with the privacy glass and did 45% on the windshield to knock the glare out. Also got emblem overlays for the front, back and steering wheel along with the wheel caps.
May I ask where you got the emblem overlays?? I can't find any '19 forester specific ones and I'm not sure about the fits of some of the other overlays
 

· Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Not OP but I got my orange one off of Ebay, but this is also a good resource that has very nice designs: https://orsini-vinyl-designs.myshopify.com. They are taking a break.
Thanks for the input! I hope you don't mind my asking 2 follow up questions:

Did the orange ones off of ebay fit snugly? And if so, is there a link? :)

Did you also overlay your tire emblems?
 

· Registered
2019 Forester Sport
Joined
·
125 Posts
I spend a bundle on surgery for my cat with a tumor in the ear and you spend a bundle on mods for your car :) Are any of these additions or upgrades covered by your insurance? Do you have a rider for the upgrades? I am enjoying your photos and detail explanations of the mods.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Thanks for the input! I hope you don't mind my asking 2 follow up questions:

Did the orange ones off of ebay fit snugly? And if so, is there a link? :)

Did you also overlay your tire emblems?
No tire, but the steetrng wheel I got it https://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-2019-...0d:m:mGSxuohDwSdI2pIjAVIgClA&var=422971034475
Took a little finagling but it fit well. Make sure to do it during warm temps or you will get potential bubbles when it warms up. learned that the hard way...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
awesome build progress! especially with the audio upgrades. I used to be into car audio myself but not on the level of commitment that you have. brings me back to the days of perusing DIYMA and caraudio.com for gear and info lol. reading through your thread makes me kinda wish i went with the option 24 package for the power lift gate and the HK stereo most likely would've been adequate enough for me.

having this car for a couple weeks now really make me wish i did go that route and now im looking how best to keep it factory-ish. was looking into the RF upgrade kit to get some simple amplification in there without installing aftermarket amps and probably an underseat sub but that HK sub basket does intrigue me. unfortunately the basket isnt sold separately on subaru's parts website so its probably back to an underseat option for me. but anyways good luck with your build!:thumbsup:
 
141 - 160 of 562 Posts
Top