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Discussion Starter #41
So, the Forester is in the audio shop tonight and I work the rest of the week out of town. I hope to swing by sometime this week to pick it up. I'm very excited to get it back.

Sound System Details:
Hybrid Audio Unity U3 3" dash speaker
Hybrid Audio Unity U69 6x9" front door speakers
Hybrid Audtio Legatia L6SE Carbon 6.5" rear door speakers
Alpine 10" S series DVC 4ohm subwoofer in fiberglass enclosure
Rockford Fosgate and Stinger wiring, RCA connectors, distribution blocks and circuit breaker
JL Audio XD600-1 600watt mono subwoofer amp at 2 ohm
JL Audio XD600-6 6 channel amp. Will operate as a 6 channel for each of the door and dash speakers, 75w x 6 at 4 ohms.
Stinger sound deadening material on all four doors and rear subwoofer panel. This will include inner and outer door skin deadening.


I also asked the shop to provide speaker wire configuration details and color codes when they remove the HK amplifier. The HK amp input wire harness will be cut off and the input wires will be converted to RCA jacks for the JL audio inputs. The output wires will be ran to each speaker with soldered connections. The HK amp output harness should be left intact and unplugged.

What's coming out is all 4 HK door speakers, 2 HK dash speakers and the HK amp. I will leave the HK 8" subwoofer in place, but it will not be powered. I am thinking of selling this whole system with the idea that the buyer will get the 8" subwoofer with panel in trade for the non HK rear right paneling. I think this panel swap would be easy, but I have not look back there behind the stock subwoofer. Any thoughts or potential interest on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
So, I was not able to get out of work to pickup the car today. The shop called with an update and it looks like they do not think the audio system will operate without the HK amp. They believe this is integrated with the steerign wheel controls and some other essential functions. They recommended a Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 digital signal processor with integration features. So it seems that the HK amp output wires will feed the DSR-1 and the DSZR-1 RCA outputs will feed the JL Audio amps. I don't have a lot of room under the seat to mount all 4 devices unless they do som stacking. So, I am very anxious to see their solution.

They also mentioned that the doors were deadened and all teh speaker baskets were built out like the original HK speakers so that the door skins seal against the speaker cone with foam seals. If you look at my previous photos of the HK door speakers you will see what I am referring to. It is a cool design. Not only are the speakers sealed to the door in order to maximize sound through the door skin grilles, but the build out is about 1.5", so that leaves plenty of room behind the speaker for the window glass to move without interference of the speaker.

I hope to pickup the car tomorrow if all goes well in the shop. Adding interface devices with OEM equipment can be tricky. But, RF makes a speaker system for Subaru and the shop recognizes that RF is really advanced with OEM interfaces. I hope they are right.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
On another note, the LaChute exhaust arrived today. I also have a photo to share for the Primitive Racing mid and rear diff skid plates. I just need to find the time to get it installed.

Aldo installed the Subaru ownership badge. Looks cool.

The dead pedal arrived as well. I am not as impressed as I was hoping. I will post more regarding the pedal when I have time to take photos. I may keep the current dead pedal on, not sure yet. What I like about the current pedal is that it is a great platform for my foot and it feels solid when stepping on it. Because it is screwed in there is no movement at all.
The 09 had a dead pedal like this new on that uses the factor plastic fasteners to keep it in place. The problem is that it will move under foot and on occasion the plastic fasteners would pop out and the pedal would move a lot. So, more to think about this one.


Work is definately interfering with my projects.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
So, I got the car back from the audio shop today. It sounded awesome in the shop when we were going through the tuning and RK Perfect Tune app. Then, as I was driving home, the whole system cut out again. I took it back to the shop and they were unable to fix it right there. This happened before and it seems to be related to the HK amp being a little finicky. I was unable to jiggle the handle at home either to get it going again.

The shop owner recommended that we bypass the stero volume control and use direct control from the DSR-1 and a volume knob that would be added in the USB cubby hole. I woudl likely lose all steering wheel functions too. After thinking abotu this for awhile and looking at the wiring harness mess that they made, I am feeling a little dissapointed. I specifically asked for all soldered connections and a wiring diagram. There is a mess of butt connectors and under the passenger seat and everything is so tight, that I think teh problem is loose or broken wire.

So, I am going to take it back on Satureday and see if they can sort this out. I would prefer they add soldered wire exgtensions to relieve some tension in that harness assembly. I am also not likley the DSR-1 unit. I feel like they upsold me and the device is not doing the integration that it was supposed too. Especially now that they want to bypass the volume control and add an external one. I really don't know why they could not have just added more rca pigtails like they did for the subwoofer. This seemed to work fine.

I was able to use the aux port and at least listen to some tunes on my drive back to town. Sounds great, just not quite dialed in yet. The shop did such a great job on the sub, I trusted them to get this right. But, if they can;t get it right on Satureday then I am just going to do it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
So, I got the car back from the audio shop today. It sounded awesome in the shop when we were going through the tuning and RK Perfect Tune app. Then, as I was driving home, the whole system cut out again. I took it back to the shop and they were unable to fix it right there. This happened before and it seems to be related to the HK amp being a little finicky. I was unable to jiggle the handle at home either to get it going again.

The shop owner recommended that we bypass the stero volume control and use direct control from the DSR-1 and a volume knob that would be added in the USB cubby hole. I woudl likely lose all steering wheel functions too. After thinking abotu this for awhile and looking at the wiring harness mess that they made, I am feeling a little dissapointed. I specifically asked for all soldered connections and a wiring diagram. There is a mess of butt connectors and under the passenger seat and everything is so tight, that I think teh problem is loose or broken wire.

So, I am going to take it back on Satureday and see if they can sort this out. I would prefer they add soldered wire exgtensions to relieve some tension in that harness assembly. I am also not likley the DSR-1 unit. I feel like they upsold me and the device is not doing the integration that it was supposed too. Especially now that they want to bypass the volume control and add an external one. I really don't know why they could not have just added more rca pigtails like they did for the subwoofer. This seemed to work fine.

I was able to use the aux port and at least listen to some tunes on my drive back to town. Sounds great, just not quite dialed in yet. The shop did such a great job on the sub, I trusted them to get this right. But, if they can;t get it right on Satureday then I am just going to do it myself.
 

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.............What's coming out is all 4 HK door speakers, 2 HK dash speakers and the HK amp. I will leave the HK 8" subwoofer in place, but it will not be powered. I am thinking of selling this whole system with the idea that the buyer will get the 8" subwoofer with panel in trade for the non HK rear right paneling. I think this panel swap would be easy, but I have not look back there behind the stock subwoofer. Any thoughts or potential interest on this?
I have been asking/looking for info on the factory sub in the Sport. I'm getting conflicting reports. Mostly reports of no sub in either the Fosgate or HK upgrades. It appears you had an HK 8" sub in the right rear interior panel? So for the Sport there's 2 dash, 4 (2 co-ax) in front doors, 2 rear doors and the 8" sub in back for the advertised "total' of 9 speakers??

Sucks your having trouble with your install. I hate not getting what I ask for. I would be a lot disappointed. Hope they get it right and you are back rolling again soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I installed the Primitive Rear Diff skid plate and mid skid plate. The rear was a bit tricky to get installed since you have to use a pry bar to get a gap that will allow you to slipde the plate into place. It worked out okay.

I also installed the LeChute muffler and it added a nice throaty sound without being too loud in general. Very sharp looking.

Attaching some photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I have been asking/looking for info on the factory sub in the Sport. I'm getting conflicting reports. Mostly reports of no sub in either the Fosgate or HK upgrades. It appears you had an HK 8" sub in the right rear interior panel? So for the Sport there's 2 dash, 4 (2 co-ax) in front doors, 2 rear doors and the 8" sub in back for the advertised "total' of 9 speakers??

Sucks your having trouble with your install. I hate not getting what I ask for. I would be a lot disappointed. Hope they get it right and you are back rolling again soon.
Thanks, I hope so too.

My understanding is that all HK upgrades come with the 9 speakers, which includes the 8" subwoofer. Yes, I have one. The RF upgrade is two 6x9 door speakers and amp. That's all.

The dash speakers are the coaxials, 3" mid and tweeter. The front door has two 6x9s woofers and the rear door has a 6.5" midwoofer. All these door speakers produce decent bass around 80Hz. They are impressive.

I have pics of all these speakers. Some with the door panels off. Just go back and look at them.
 

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When you have a chance can you post a short video clip of the exhaust? I’d love to hear how it sounds vs going with the STI mid pipe, etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Let's see how this works.

I am posting a few audio files of the vehicle exhaust sounds while driving. Can be a little hard to here, but I suppose that is the point with the stock exhaust in the 2019 Forester Sport. It is by far the quietest Forester I have been in.

Oh crap. Audio files dont work on this site. Sorry, wbdubya, unable to share.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I did call the audio shop and they are going to get this back in the bay tomorrow and resolve the issues. They have a call out to Rockford for some tech support as well. Being a new model, the shop is not surprised these issues are occuring and believes they can resolve it.

I honestly think if they just solder all the connections and/or add extenstions to relieve all the stress of cramped wires at the HK amp the problem will resolve itself. Maybe I am wrong, but I think the amp is cutting out because a wire lost connection. Everything was working fine, then it just stopped.

In either case, I am going on a week long ski hut trip in Colorado and really want to listen to the sound system on this 10 hour drive.
 

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I installed the Primitive Rear Diff skid plate and mid skid plate. The rear was a bit tricky to get installed since you have to use a pry bar to get a gap that will allow you to slipde the plate into place. It worked out okay.

I also installed the LeChute muffler and it added a nice throaty sound without being too loud in general. Very sharp looking.

Attaching some photos.
Which skid plates did you get? I don't see any listed for the 2019 forester.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
OMG, OMG, OMG! I have the Forester back and just got done fine tuning it. This thing sounds amazing!!!

So, there were two issues to solve.

1. The HK amp kept cutting in and out. Everything was soldered and the wiring was strapped and tidy. No cut outs so far.

2. I wanted the factory head unit to operate the volume and full fader controls. This problem was more difficult to solve. The HK amp must stay. No way around it according to the shop. The HK amp has a canbus and many wires are unknown, but most likely control somthing important. So, in order to use an aftermarket system, there needs to be an interface module. The shop selected the Rockford Fosgate DSR-1. But, the problem lies in the HK amp. The output wires of the HK must feed the DSR-1. However when these wires (speaker wires) leave the amp, they are not full signal. The front door speakers run bandpass, the dash runs high pass around 2000Hz and the rear doors seem to be the best and run a high pass around 200Hz or so. When wired up with the DSR-1 I had a hard time getting good midbass out of the front speakers. The other issue is that the fader controls in the head unit woudl not fade to the front. You had to leave it on the rears.

So, the receommended option was to spend more money. Which I kinda figured would happen. The recommend interface module is the RF 3-Sixty. This is the high end solution and offers full tuning controls. The front and rear speaker inputs can be run into the 360 and the signals get converted to full range. This allows me to retain the fader and volume controls and dial in each channel. Each set of speakers can be set with a crossover style and frequency and gain control. Each also has a full 31 band EQ. So, I went to work after getting it out of the shop. I did not like their tuning. The volume would only go to about 15 out of 38 before being so loud and distorted. So, I tweaked the gains down and stated adjusting one set of speakers at a time. This processor is bad ***. No app like the DSR-1. This requires software and a laptop connection to tune the processor. The other thing I loved about this processor is that I can mute all channels except the one I wanted to tune. This allows you to isolate one set of speakers at a time. This paid off big time. I got the bass back in the front door speakers and with the dash speakers I went with a crossover point much higher than I was expecting. I wanted to cross at 800, but it did not allow for good stereo separation from the midbass speakers in the front doors. So, I ended up with a cross at 2250Hz.

The bass hits hard but everything sounds fantastic and bright at a volume control of 25 to 30 with bass knob at 3/4 power. Just whare I wanted it.

I will post the color code sheet tomorrow. This has most of the wiring out of the HK amp, but I have not looked at the sheet yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I also installed the Ecohitch trailer wire harness tonight. I though I woudl have to pull out the subwoofer, but luckily the harness was right underneath it. Took about 20 minutes to install. Plug and play. The 4 flat pigtail is mounted to an Eclipse magnet mount. So, wires stay out of the way and dosnlt hang down and drag.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I did some more tuning today. I set the time delay for the Rockford Fosgate 3-Sixty processor and changed polarity in one of the front dash speakers to correct phase. Systm really sounds amazing and I am looking forward to the ten hour drive to Breckenridge tomorrow.

Here are some photos and descriptions.

1. Wiring diagram for the HK amp and the timing specs for each of the speakers.

2. Wiring diagram for the RF 360 processor.

3. Sample of measuring the distance for each speaker location to the ears.

4. Close-up stickers that marked the ear locations. Ears are 10cm in front of stickers. Math was done to acount for this discrepency.

5. A look at the front door speaker and offset mount.

6. A look at the rear speaker with offset mount. In this photo I also pulled back the door plastic to reveal the Stinger sound deadening material.

7. Comparing HK 3" mid/tweeter with HAT Unity 3" high range speaker

8. HAT U3 speaker mounted.
 

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I absolutely love ripping into everything to see how it is put together and to see how I can iprove it. Overall, the performance of the Sport is much better than my 09 Forester.

However, I prefer the dual exhaust so the first thing I did was take the car into the muffle shop. After inspecting the pipes, there is no room on the rear left of the car to install a split tailpipe system and run some Magnaflow mufflers. Therefore, I had the shop install a nice rolled edge chrome muffler tip and moved on. I also moved my 3 week old Duracell AGM battery into this car from the 09 Forester.

I also bought a few items at the dealership and the first week of the car purchase:

1. STI Shock Tower Support Brace - I had Front/Rear support braces in my 09. If you want better handling with little effort. Grab one of these babies for $200 from the dealer. At speed, when you rock the wheel the Forester will feel a little boating and rocks from side to side. Adding this bar prevents the rocking to some degree. The car will shimmy side to side instead of rock. That keep the wheels engaged longer on the pavement and improved traction. Huge performance gain for little money. And it looks cool. The engine cover slides off without have to remove the brace.

2. Auto-dimming Side mirrors with the foot path illumination. These were a little tricky to install, but once the first one was done, the other mirror was done in 5 minutes.

3. Aluminum skid plate. This was a fun install. The plastic skid plate was removed and you have to reuse the oil drain plug cover. I also ended up popping off more fasteners than required. But, easy to put back in place.

4. Thule Aero cross bars. - I mounted these up and then attempted to see if my Yakima Ski rack for Yakima aero bars would fit. It's not perfect, but it fits tight and should have no issue hauling my skis. No pics of the bars or ski rack.

5. Sunroof Deflector - Straight forward install. I could not figure out why there were small holes in the fornt section of the deflector. I figured these were for running wires or something. Kinda stupid, but whatever. Then I washed the car. Duh, the holes let rain and water rush trough to prevent trapping in the deflector area. Photo shows deflector and vortex generator.

6. Wilson 4g Cell phone booster antenna - You may notice another antenna mast in these photos of the Vortex generator. This is for a Wilson Mobile 4g antenna extender. Works great. I moved this over from my 09 Forester. I wanted to run the wire into the stock shark antenna, but there was no easy way to do this. I had everything apart, but it would require a lot of dremmelling to make this work. So, I ran the wire into the rear gate wire grommet and tucked the wire into the headliner. The booster box is under the driver seat. The inside antenna is right next to the sunglasses compartment. Same photo as the vortex generator.

7. The WRX/STI vortex generator - So, this thing just looks cool. It is designed for the WRX/STI cars, but I thought I would chance it and see if I could cut it down to fit the Forester. My concern was the raised section on the roof near the rack mounts. Luckily, the vortex generator fit mostly forward and I only had a slight bend to deal with. I was going to pull out my heat gun to mold the plastic, but this was not necessary. The only mod I made to this was trimming off the ends so it fit within the rails. I think it looks great and I did not have to cut off any fins. This photo is the same as the sunroof deflector.

8. Rear Cargo Net - I much prefer the design of the cargo nets in the 09 Forester. I am still getting used to this one, but not loving it yet.


Cheers,
Scott
Do you have the exact part numbers for the strut bar and the vortex generator on your Forester?

Also, how difficult was trimming off the ends to get the vortex generator to fit between the rails? Did you just use a utility knife? Did it mess up with the 3m tape along those edges?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Fungjeezy,

On the strut tower brace, I bought this direct from the dealer at teh time I purchased the car. It is listed on the Build Your Own Subaru page. But, it does not have a part number. I am pretty sure it is the E4010SC021, but not positive.

The Vortex generator is E751SVA010 . This was easy to trim with utility knife for a deep score. Then I bent that piece to break it off then cleaned up teh edge with the knife. I did add a piece of 3m red tap to the end piece so it was sealed on the ends. Very easy install. There are some good youtube videos on how to get it on stratight. I used these tips and it worked perfectly as shown in the videos.

Have fun, these are easy mods.
 
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