After installing the aftermarket sound system, the Starlink system threw an error code. I received notice through the My Subaru amp and the LED in the Starlink console turned from Green to Red, indication an error state.
It turns out that the output speaker wire from the HK amp goes to the Data Control Module (DCM) before heading out to the dash speakers. So, when the shop cut those wires, the circuit was left open and caused an error.
So, this is a word of caution for anyone looking into adding an aftermarket sound system. It is best to review the schematic, or take it to your audio shop and make sure you or they T-tap the front speaker wires instead of cutting them. Then they will need to install resistors to trick the DCM into thinking there is a speaker attached.
I do not know if the Starlink will actually work without a speaker. So, I need to test this. I will likely go to the dealer for help on that. Not sure if I can just activate Starlink and talk to someone. I never used it before.
I will say that the Hands free phone calling and map directions work on the aftermarket sound system, so I think Starlink may be working too, just not verified.
I was able to get the green light on, but only with the speakers attached. I tried a few sets of resistors, but they only kept the green light on for a little while, then the red light returned. So, I have some resistors on order and will be posting a follow-up post once I get it all dialed in.
Here are the specific details and photos:
DTC Starlink Error – This is the schematic that details the error taking place with Starlink when it does not “see” a speaker attached. It results in red light instead of the green light.
Starlink Green Light Repair-3 – This schematic is for the HK system with amp and with telematics. On this page you can see that the output on the larger 30 pin connector leads to the DCM then heads off to the dash speakers. So, if you cut these wires you will get open circuit and red light error. What you need to do is splice the wire instead. So, you tap this wire to feed your aftermarket system with a line level input and you send a signal to the DCM. Once the signal leaves the DCM, you must attach a resistor at the dash connector to mimic a speaker. This fools the DCM into thinking the speaker is there. Make sure you share this schematic with the audio shop and tell them to splice (T-tap) the wire instead of cutting it.
Wiring Diagram without Amp with Telematics_Page_1 – This schematic is important to understand that your Head Unit (HU) only has 4 outputs. Front and Rear. The Rear wires go directly to the Rear door speakers. The Front wires feed the DCM. This schematic applies to the Premium 6 speaker system.
Wiring Diagram without Amp with Telematics_Page_2 – In this schematic you can see that the signal leaves the DCM and splits into the Front Door and Dash speakers. I do not have the Premium system, so I am unable to test this, but I know some others do. So, what the community would really like to know is how many resistors do you need to install to get the Starlink green light? Can you just install resistors in the 2 dash speakers, or do you have to use 4 resistors for all 4 front speakers???
Moving on with the photos and details. This information applies to the HK system.
Starlink Green Light Repair-1 – The HK amp has two connectors. A smaller 24 pin connector and a larger 30 pin connector. Power and speaker output wires are located in the 30 pin connector. For the output speaker wires the + wire will be in the upper row and the – wire for the same speaker will be below in the lower row. In this photo you can see that I isolated 4 wires. These are for the dash speakers: Left Dash red +, green -, Right Dash pink +, violet -. The harness was cut here and the shop soldered in the wires for the Fosgate 3.sixty line level inputs. These are the gray wires. What I need to do here is reattach the original wires.
Starlink Green Light Repair-5 – This picture shows the original wires prepped for soldering. The wires are too short to reach now, so I soldered in some runner wires. Each of those 4 joints were opened up and the original wires were soldered. So each joint has three wires now. This was all heat shrinked, soldered and wrapped with cloth electrical tape. I did not take photos of all that work, sorry. But you get the idea of what is necessary.
Starlink Green Light Repair-6 and 9 – The DCT error message said that the Starlink DCM needs to sense at least 10 kOhm for 100ms to be satisfied. At this point, I did not have resistors and was not sure that it would work. I was also concerned that reconnecting the original wire and DCM may cause some interference with my aftermarket sound system. So, before I wasted any time I thought I would reattach the original HK dash speakers to see if the Starlink light would go green. As you can see in photo 6, the HK speaker is connected. In photo 9, the light is green. The aftermarket system worked perfectly. I could hear sound from the HK dash speakers too. So, now I knew that I should be able to add in some resistors and that should work. What I don’t know is if the Starlink will just be fooled or if the sound from Starlink operator will come through the aftermarket speakers like the phone and map voices do. I will be testing that later.
Starlink Green Light Repair-11 – I dissected resistors from some old passive crossovers. These did not work in the long run. So, I have some new resistors on order. Hopefully those will work, but I will continue with the photos and details so you know what I learned. Also, I don’t really know much about resistors and the values, but these resistors were said 20.0 J. I was hoping this was 20 kOhm. When I tested with ohms meter I got 7.5 mOhm. So, I am not sure if that is more than kOhm or less. But, they did not work, so I ordered a few different types of resistors including 4 ohm resistors to mimic an actual speaker.
Starlink Green Light Repair-12 – Sharpie added for size reference. I soldered on some wire extensions, applied red/black heat shrink and bent the wires into position. Here is an important tip. When adding resistors or the speakers I would disconnect the battery each time. Even with batt disconnected the Starlink red light would stay on for about 15 seconds. So, be sure to wait for the light to go out before reattaching the battery terminal. The doors and hood can be open, but it is important to reset the car’s ECU each time you make a change. When you turn the ignition switch on, the Starlink LED will flash then go through a 2-3 second check before it decides on the light color. It’s pretty exciting to get the green light after many trials of getting red.
Starlink Green Light Repair-13 – The resistor is attached and I did some testing. Refer to the wiring diagram to make sure you connect the resistor in the correct direction. You also need to make sure you know which pin in that connector is positive and negative. Refer to photo Starlink Green Light Repair-3. The Left dash uses pink +, violet -. The right dash uses light green +, blue -.
Starlink Green Light Repair-14 – Here you can see the resistor taped in place.
Starlink Green Light Repair-15 – Here you can see that the resistor is in place (both sides) and the light is green. But, I cheated. When I installed the resistors with the battery disconnected the light was red. So, I reset the batt and reinstalled the speakers. This resulted in green light. Then, without resetting the batt I removed the speakers. Light was green with nothing attached. I installed the resistors and light stayed green. Please note that the Starlink LED seems to have some memory and does not recheck the safe condition in a constant state. You can even turn the ignition off and on and the green light will remain for some time, but not permanently. At some point, the DCM will do a system check and the red light would return. So, that is why you see a green light in the picture, but these resistors are not the right ones. I also don’t know is the ones I ordered will work, but I am hopeful. If they don’t work then the last effort will be to run extension wires out of the dash connectors and mount some cheap speakers under the dash. The good part about this solution is that I am pretty sure the Starlink system will actually work when connecting to the Starlink operator.
That is all for now. It seems like I am on the right track. There were also no ill-effects with my aftermarket sound system. I will report back after I try the new resistors.