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2011 Toyota Tacoma DCSB Auto
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Discussion Starter #1
Im lookin into a 1999+ Mazda MX-5 Miata for a serous project car, the FXT is way too nice to drift.
So can anyone recommend a Forum to browse for prospects for my project.
Tkx
Ben
 

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Miata.net, although it tends to be more boring and uptight compared to this place.

There is MiataTurbo.net :evilatyou: Watch yourself there -- easy to get flamed -- but the information is awesome if you are into FI.

Clubroadster.net is another one you may want to check out, different style but there are probably some drifters on there.

Stan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ive got a 13b in the garage i was going to put it into a 2nd gen RX7 but deal fell, so my next option is a MX5 well not really for drifting just a fun car mostly open track days.
 

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Im lookin into a 1999+ Mazda MX-5 Miata for a serous project car, the FXT is way too nice to drift.
So can anyone recommend a Forum to browse for prospects for my project.
Tkx
Ben
I have a 2001 Miata SE (special edition) in British Green #753 of 3,000 produced....FOR SALE!

Located in Troy, MI (48098). Garage kept w/ 15k miles!!! :Banane08:

Let me know if you are interested. I haven't posted it up anywhere yet.
 

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13b in a Miata, eh? Hmm.. Don't see it done too often, turbocharging is a great bang for the buck. Some, do an LSx swap, but that's 30K+

The stock Miata engine is bullet-proof, can take boost and is cheap to replace. 250whp with stock internals and transmission is common and very reliable if tuned right.

I've had 3 first-gen RX-7s in early and mid nineties, I love those things. I was thinking of getting a GSL-SE as a play car, but decided against going with a rotary due to cost and got a Miata instead.

Stan
 

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It seems surprising at first, but adapting a 13B to a Miata is actually more difficult than it's worth, and more difficult and expensive than turbo-ing or SC-ing the existing engine...EVEN IF YOU HAVE A PERFECTLY GOOD 13B LAYING AROUND. You would think it'd be a match made in heaven...it's not.
 

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Miataturbo.net is the way to go for pure performance and no bull. Make a nice intro thread in the “Meet&Greet” forum introducing yourself, fill out your profile, read all the Sticky’s, Search before posting, and take your beating as a NOOB with a grain of salt.

I’m a long-time poster there, and will just say that if it’s not a combination of easier/cheaper/faster/better, then the board will not be interested. Swaps other than the increasingly popular LSX just don’t make any sense considering how easy it is to make good power on the stock engine. Nobody does rotary swaps. Drifting isn’t popular there unless you come off as extremely legit and stick to the track… “street-drifters” are spotted quick and don’t last.

I’m a bit of an expert on the ’99 Miata. It’s the last year you could get a “stripper” model with no power options. In ’00, things like power mirrors/windows and a bunch of other crap was standard. The ’99-’00 cars also had the best-flowing stock heads. In a perfect world, the “best” Miata from a pure stock performance standpoint would be a ’99 base model w/Sport Package (not including the MSM). Most guys looking to track their Miatas go with a 94-95 and just a little homework there will tell you why.
 

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Even a stock Miata can do very well on the track, you'd be surprised. Sell the 13b and put that money towards the cleanest car you can afford. Do your homework on what to look for (torsen, OBD1, etc) and have fun with it.

I was considering FI for my NA, but it would take at least 2k for me to do it right, so I'm rockin it on stock power.

A local guy has a nicely sorted out '99 with 170hp N/A, but it took alot of money -- he has over 10K in the engine alone. He is retired and it's his toy. He is fast as h*** in the twisties and runs R-comps on the street.

Stan
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tkx for the INFO everyone. The rotary is goin to a local street drifter, for his FC. Ive been eyein Craigslist for some cars wish me luck. The only thing i couldnt find on any of the forums, was s buyers guide. A FAQ for buyers, of common things to look for before buying. Back to the search....
Tkx again Everyone.
 

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Just helped a buddy of mine go through a 91 Miata that he got for $1800 for Autocross use. Cant wait to get in it. We put a Harddog roll bar, STG2 flying miata suspension kit and Brig RE11 on her.

Miata.net seems like a good group of guys. Those LS1 Miatas are crazy sick. I go to a local meet once a Month and there is a guy with one there.
 

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I know that car, and I know the owner. It's a fast ride, and the driver is also immensly tallented. Guys who build Miatas to that level are not messing around. The parts list is extrememly impressive, and I know Kienan at All Aspects Motorsports... he's a damned genius.

A stock '99 Miata in good condition with those miles is worth $4500-$5k if it's perfect. The parts list he has there is probably $5k worth. It's well sorted turnkey racecar with a solid history and enthusiast owned. It's worth his asking price to somebody... but it's heavily invested in suspension, and almost nothing in motor. The car probably makes 120whp and weighs 2200lbs... and will not impress you in a straight line.

Starting with a base '99 Miata, you can do some basic suspension mods and a decent set of rubber for $1500. A turbo setup w/ECU with quality components, 3" exhaust, and capable of 300whp is a $4k proposition... if not a little bit more. Budget $5k for won't-need-to-worry-about-it boost... on a completely stock motor.

Another sweet detail about the '99 is the higher flowing head, when coupled with a set of adjustable cam-gears and replacing the stock intake cam with a stock exhaust cam (more lift/duration), will yield about 10-12whp gain. The stock intake manifold has a system in it called VICS... gutting the vics assembly is good for about a 5whp gain above 4500rpm and no sacrifice anywhere else. These may seem like small gains, but they add up quickly on a 2200lb car.

For basic info, there is almost nothing to worry about when buying a 94+ Miata. For the '99, there's a rumor of weak coils... nothing to be concerned about on a stock engine, but for boost, upgrading to a set of direct drop-in Toyota coils from a Celica or Corolla is recommended... can run upwards of a .045 spark gap at 15+psi with no blowout. Beyond that, there are zero wiring or ECU issues. The engines and suspension are absolutely bulletproof. Stock motor-mounts are shot at 75k miles, and shifter boots around 100k.. total of $150 to replace all of those.

What else you want to know?
 
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