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Discussion Starter #1
Here is some information on Megan Racing 02-04 WRX (although these went on my Forester) coilovers.

First Impressions
Wow these look nice. Great powder coating job all around. Nice welds. Lightweight. Noise prevention cusions on top and bottom of the spring. In this first picture you can see Megan Racing has added brackets for the ABS lines and brake lines, which I was pleasantly surprised to find since I specifically asked the vendor about those, and was told no changes are being made to them. That is why I called this V2 as obviously a change was made since the other MR reviews I have seen.


Strut Tops and Camber Plates


Threaded Collars
I removed the McPhearson bracket on a rear strut (sorry no front strut picture) so you can see the length of adjustment on the struts. The lowest red seat lock is the height adjustment and is in the location that the strut shipped in. The second picture I tried to demonstrate how far into the McPhearson bracket the threads go, but it is kind of hard to show that...




Additional Hardware
Not much. A couple of adjusting wrenches, an allen key for the camber plates, and new nuts for the top of the struts. Click here for the exploded diagram describing the parts of the coilovers. Didn't come with instructions at all, so the hopefully these comments/pictures help out.



Starting measurements
Here are my front (first picture) and rear (second picture). I just measured from the ground through the center of the wheel, to the fender. This is with 225/45-18 tires on the car. So your results may be different.




Comparison to stock struts
The MR coilovers weigh approx. 12lbs each(bathroom scale, not very accurate) while the stock struts weigh approx. 20lbs each (same scale, still not very accurate). Here are a couple pictures comparing the front (first picture) and rear (second picture) stock and MR coilovers. Nothing exact about the measurements, just wanted to give a ballpark.




Front Install
I am not going to walk through a full suspension install as several of those exist on www.scoobymods.com But I do have a couple notes to help people out. Disconnect the front sway bar (mine was stock). If you don't it will be virtually impossible to put the second strut in as the tension on it will be quite high. The sway bar has a 14mm nut, but the center of the bolt has a pass-through for a allen key. The allen key size just happened to be the same as the one Megan Racing provided for the camber plate so I used that and a 14mm wrench. The top bolt is the camber bolt and the washer goes on the bolt side. The camber plates should be positioned perpendicular to the front/rear line of the car. I set mine at 3.25" between the lower seat lock and upper seat lock. Here are a couple:




Rear Install
I didn't have any problems with the rear sway bar (mine is stock) so I left it connected. The rear brake line bracket didn't fit perfect, so the stock retaining clip could not be used. I put the brakline in the bracket and used a pair of vice grips to pinch the top of the bracket closed so it held the line where the clip would hold the line. Time will tell how well this holds, but it looks to be fine. The pillowball upper mount has a flat side this goes towards the middle of the car, the rounded side goes towards the outside. I set mine at 5.25" between the lower seat lock and upper seat lock. Here are a couple of pictues:




Final results
No noise to speak of. I need to take everything out of my car and go for another drive to verify. I only got a quick drive in this AM before work, once it drops under 112 degrees outside I may go back out. :) I got it nice and level, but I may need to raise the rear a bit (1/4"). I think it may rub the fender with weight in the back. It rides better than I expected, even without adjusting the dampening. I would say it rides much better than my 2000 2.5RS with KYB AGX struts and ground control coilovers did, and slightly better than my 2002 WRX wagon did with Whiteline Flatout springs. The 18" wheels made a more negative impact to the ride quality than the MR coilovers did. I am going to drive it for a week make some adjustments and let everything settle and then get it aligned properly. I will probably add rear camber bolts as well before then. Here are some pictures and before you say anything, Yes our streets are reasonable, no I don't go (or plan to go) offroading with the FXT, and I only drive this car about 400 miles a month so things that don't bother me may drive others crazy ;) First picture is front gap, second is rear gap.






Regards,

Aaron
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #2
Since these pictures I have raised it .75" in the front and .75" in the rear. Making the measurements I took in the first post 4" and 6" respectively. I was getting rubbing when taking turns with large bumps in them.

You can adjust height with the strut connected. Just take a wheel off, loosen the lower seat lock, and turn the shaft of the strut. It is tiring though as there is a lot more resistance than when the strut is free. This is a strap wrench came in handy. I just looped it around and it twisted the shaft with ease. It made short work of the adjustment after I thought of using it.

I turned the dampening up to full stiff and then back it down 24 "clicks" in the front and 26 "clicks" in the rear. This should put me at 24 in the front and 26 in the rear. According to MR:

1-8 track use
9-16 "suggest for mountain anfractuosity use" direct quote from them...
17-32 street use
 

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1998 Forester "S" lifted. Bog-o-matic
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What are the spring rates on these? and if you don't mind me asking, the cost?
 

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formerly known as Benrock05201
2012 GMC 2500 HD Automatic
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2,225 Posts
They are pretty sweet. Do you happen to know how high they can be adjusted to? Could they be adjusted to stock hieght for an off road excursion? Thanks in advance.

Ben
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #5
They are for the WRX so I don't believe you will be able to raise it high enough for stock ride height.

The spec sheet from MR shows 180*8 for the front and 180*6 for the rear. I assume that is 180 lbs over the 8 inch spring in the front and 180 lbs over the 6 inch spring in the rear. While the MR website shows 8kg...
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #6
Forgot to answer the cost. I think MSRP is over $1000 but the can commonly be found for $900 shipped in the US from distributors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also it is commonly believed that these are the same as some APEXi and Helix coilovers and made at the same factory...
 

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formerly known as Benrock05201
2012 GMC 2500 HD Automatic
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2,225 Posts
AaronB said:
Also it is commonly believed that these are the same as some APEXi and Helix coilovers and made at the same factory...
This is a good thing to know. Thanks for the write up and the answers.

Ben
 

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2006 RX8
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423 Posts
Nice pics and a good write-up. Man those original pics at the first height setting really slam the car down! I imagine your re-calibrated height is working out better and still looks great. Overall it looks like a nice quality product with the front camber plates and quality construction and finish. Not a bad price for all of that!

Thanks again for the pics and the info! I just went down the Koni path, and this would have been a great alternative option for someone wanting more of the WRX height solution which is what I was after.

Jeff
 

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1998 Forester "S" lifted. Bog-o-matic
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2,006 Posts
180lb springs?

Weaksauce.

I was hoping for something stiffer.

I'm currently running 350lb front 250lb rear.

But still, I wish mine came all powdercoated and stuff. Apparently Progress does not think protecting SS is a high priority. :roll:
 

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Mr. November 2008
2015 BMW 335d xDrive GT Auto
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969 Posts
I think the conversion factor is to divide by 0.0179 to get from Kg/mm to lb/in, so if they are really 8 Kg/mm front and 6 KG/mm rear then it comes out to:

447 lb/inch Front, 335 lb/inch rear.

Is that more like it ?
 

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1998 Forester "S" lifted. Bog-o-matic
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If thats the case then it is much closer to what I'd like. Right now mine seems just slightly too weak. An extra 100lb/in would be nice.
 

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formerly known as Benrock05201
2012 GMC 2500 HD Automatic
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2,225 Posts
Hondaslayer said:
If thats the case then it is much closer to what I'd like. Right now mine seems just slightly too weak. An extra 100lb/in would be nice.
I may follow you down this road. I love the new stance of his car.

Ben
 

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1998 Forester "S" lifted. Bog-o-matic
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Mine sits at about the same height.

I just wish it were a bit stiffer,particularly in the rear.
 

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formerly known as Benrock05201
2012 GMC 2500 HD Automatic
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2,225 Posts
Hondaslayer said:
Mine sits at about the same height.

I just wish it were a bit stiffer,particularly in the rear.
Do you have pics in the members gallery? What set up are you running? Sorry to hyjack.

Ben
 

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1998 Forester "S" lifted. Bog-o-matic
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I put a few pics in the members gallery.

But here are a few more

Progress coilovers
STi front and rear swaybars
Whiteline ALK











 

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Premium Member
'09 STI
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4,129 Posts
Hondaslayer said:
Mine sits at about the same height.

I just wish it were a bit stiffer,particularly in the rear.
That would be a good call on the rear spring rates. I'm running 7Ks (approx. 400lbs.) front AND rear and with the stock swaybars. The ride height is 13.75" from axle to fender lip front and rear. It's very close to neutral.

Unfortunately, this is causing me to have to rethink swaybar sizes to keep the stock proportions but in a larger size. Any suggestions?
 

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I think I'm going to have to hijack also.

Hondaslayer - You say your running the sti swaybar front and rear. Are these the amercan sti bars, and what are the sizes. I know the rear is 20mm but I never heard of anyone using the front, and how is compared to just the rear?

Bland...
 
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