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Discussion Starter #1
So after days worth of work I get the engine back in car, start it & immediately it start gushing oil from what appears to be the head gasket in passenger side. It's only when under pressure & I can't look to much w/ it running cause it's spilling oil all over my rented driveway. Driver side is dry as can be.

  • reused OEM head bolts
  • new mls gaskets - Ebay
  • new main seals, all seals are new pretty much & permatex gray was used where called for
  • heads decked - Heads were decks without cams installed, could this be cause?
  • new valves, camseals, lapped, stem seals etc by me
  • new clutch, flywheel, alt, belts, etc
  • new askin timing belt kit & wp
  • cleaned injectors, new orings, fuel filter etc
  • new everything, spent so much time & money ensuring this would be only time i have to take out engine.
The leak is bad, you can literally hear it pumping out oil. I miss read instructions due to not turning the page & skipped a 90 * sequence when tightening heads. Would this really cause one to be fine & one to gush though?

I already ordered new felpro mls gaskets & am gonna give it a go changing gaskets with engine in car. I feel so stupid doing all this work for nothing now.


I guess the only good news is the misfire went away lol
 

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Premium Member
2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
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13,919 Posts
Too bad. That's why its best to get this job done by a subaru specialist. Practice makes perfect
 

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2003 Forester 2.5X 5MT & 2008 Impreza WRX 5MT & 2009 Impreza 2.5i 5MT
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88 Posts
It may just need to be re torqued / follow the correct torque sequence. On my 2003 Forester 2.5X I used a MLS head gasket kit from eBay. I believe i paid 49.00 for the complete kit. That included 2 new MLS gaskets , exhaust gaskets, intake manifold gaskets and the other little gaskets to complete the job. I took the heads to the machine shop and pretty much had everything done to my heads that you had done to yours. I reused the head bolts and followed the torque sequence and my car runs just fine. I'm not trying to one up you, just saying you can use inexpensive MLS head gaskets from eBay and the job will turn out fine if the procedure is done properly.
 

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1999 "L" - 231,000 mi. AT
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657 Posts
So after days worth of work ... new everything, spent so much time & money ensuring this would be only time i have to take out engine.

I feel so stupid doing all this work for nothing now.
If it makes you feel anybetter, all of us readers empathize with you.

I've wasted time before, maybe not that much. Figure out something to learn from this experience, afterwards, and post that up to help future readers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All is well that ends well. Ended up just replacing passenger side with new felpro gasket & finishing sequence on driver since, took half an afternoon with engine in car. The gasket was flipped leaving an oil galley free flowing, yikes lol. It was 98* out the day I had to get engine back in & was rushing through w/ little sleep.

Takeaways

  • Don't rush or work on critical things when tired.
  • Doing head gaskets in vehicle really isn't that bad if that's all you need to do. You can leave intake manifold in & just bungee it up out of the way. It's tight but it's made out ot be worse than it really is. Doing crank bolt without impact was probably worst part but I was able to get a 3/8" extension through flywheel window, can also use old timing belt wrapped on itself.
  • The lightweight crank pulley I got is also underdrive so I'll need a new belt. Kept OE incase I get a code.
  • Overall it really wasn't that bad. Was a $70 mistake w/ fluids & gasket & I can do it again in a day using either method when the times comes :p
Dealing with a funky idle & vacuum leak now due to cracked inlet on the egr vacuum solenoid valve but given the age something like this was an expected & easy fix.
 

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