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^^^didnt think so...was hoping he had a full set and had tested.
Oh gotcha.

Japanparts.com says: JDM Japanese Auto Parts specialists | japanparts.com

Can NOT equip with Side under skirt, Rear bumper skirt.

Color: Obsidian Black pearl (32J), Satin white pearl (37J), Spark silver metallic (C3S), Sage green metallic(C1F), Dark gray metallic(61K), Topaz gold metallic(C6P), Camellia red peal(69Z) or Newport blue peal(64Z).
 

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Tein Street Advance coil overs; 5kg F, 4kg rear. The rear is under sprung IMO to carry any real load unfortunately. You can always raise the rear and then load up, but that is a little annoying. Better bet would be to (if you can) pay a bit more for the Tein Street Flex if you wanted Tein coil overs. Great ride though; especially good as a daily.

Drop height is variable but I think I was sitting 2" lower here, which is about as low as you'd want to go on them otherwise the springs chatter (ride height adjust by spring pre-compression):



 

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I have 2011 wrx suspension with Koni yellow struts on my 2009 forester sh and love it. I used a 3/8" spacer and in my opinion needs a tiny bit more. Spring rates feel perfect for comfort and improved street handling when car isn't loaded down but the rear sags a bit too much when loaded with several passengers or heavy stuff in back. With that said, I live in the high Rockies and have zero issues bottoming out or having any suspension travel issues. I have been experimenting with strut adjustments and currently have it at 1/4 turn from full soft and the Koni yellows still fully control the motion. Feels firm but smooth. I want to remove the subframe spacers to get geometry just how the wrx is, but haven't seen anyone document doing it completely and successfully. This spring I will get under there and figure it out when I have time.
 

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I have 2011 wrx suspension with Koni yellow struts on my 2009 forester sh and love it. I used a 3/8" spacer and in my opinion needs a tiny bit more. Spring rates feel perfect for comfort and improved street handling when car isn't loaded down but the rear sags a bit too much when loaded with several passengers or heavy stuff in back. With that said, I live in the high Rockies and have zero issues bottoming out or having any suspension travel issues. I have been experimenting with strut adjustments and currently have it at 1/4 turn from full soft and the Koni yellows still fully control the motion. Feels firm but smooth. I want to remove the subframe spacers to get geometry just how the wrx is, but haven't seen anyone document doing it completely and successfully. This spring I will get under there and figure it out when I have time.
Be mindful of the drive shaft geometry before you pull the spacers
 

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Be mindful of the drive shaft geometry before you pull the spacers
That's true. The differenential is bolted up to the subframe, so removing the spacers does effect the drive shaft geometry. My non-pro eye seems thinks it "looks" alright but that's not really something you'd want to bank on. I'll see about posting some pictures to my thread later this week.
 

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Id imagine the tranny mount/cross member would need to be examined as well, as that is likely spaced down in the SH foz too. Might need to remove something there or replace with an impreza part.

Im starting to think this subframe spacer removal project on the SH may be very similar (in concept) to the SG Foz...


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My understanding is that the angles of the output shaft on tranny and input on the diff have to be within a few degrees to keep ujoint wear and vibration to a minimum. The vertical "height" of the diff and tranny don't matter as long as the angles are equal and opposite to cancel each other out. When I made custom tranny mounts for Ls1 and ka24de swaps into datsun z's I put laser pointers on the end of the tranny and diff pointed at each other and held a piece of paper up to receive both laser points. By measuring the distance of the points close to the tranny and close to the diff and solving for the difference you could get them parallel and that is the key.

Since the rear subframe is evenly spaced on all 4 corners, removing them would keep the diff parallel with the tranny, except that the driveshaft is 2 piece. I haven't looked at how the center joint on the driveshaft is spaced, so I'm not yet sure if vetting this to work properly would require removal of front subframe spacers too or just rear subframe and driveshaft.
 

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Id imagine the tranny mount/cross member would need to be examined as well, as that is likely spaced down in the SH foz too. Might need to remove something there or replace with an impreza part.

Im starting to think this subframe spacer removal project on the SH may be very similar (in concept) to the SG Foz...


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Only removing spacers on the tranny mount would change the driveline angle coming out of the trans. That isn't good, so I think if this spacer is removed, one also needs to remove engine mount crossmember spacers to keep the trans in correct parallel with the diff
 

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Cusco recently added 1 new set of coil overs and 1 new set of shocks to their line up for SH forester. These are 40 way adjustable and is compatible with EDFC. Since both are in their Street series, thus can be adjusted to almost stock suppleness.

Cusco Street Zero A (Coil over)
Cusco Street Touring A (Shock only)

The street Zero A is very popular here in Taiwan with over 10 cars in our club running them since they became available 4 month ago.
 

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Im sure it's posted here somewhere but if anyone can clarify for me. I have a 11' XT and want to go the wrx take off route. Does it matter if they are sedan or hatch and will spacers be needed?

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Im sure it's posted here somewhere but if anyone can clarify for me. I have a 11' XT and want to go the wrx take off route. Does it matter if they are sedan or hatch and will spacers be needed?

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It doesnt matter whether its sedan or hatch. Ive read posts that the hatch had a barely higher rear spring rate...but then seen others that said they were the same fwiw.
But both will work fitment wise.

For spacers you don't "need" them, but i think 99.9% of people end up using them even if its just to help some butt sag. I went with 3/8" in the rear, but others like a little more.
Theyr'e easy to swap in and out to your liking, but keep in mind anything thicker then the 3/8" you'll need longer studs for the rear top hats.

Kingfuzz has a crazy cheap deal on some takeoffs from a '14 wrx for sale on here if you're still looking.
 
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