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worn out cams
05 FXT
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899 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
... from a dude who wrecked his 2004 STI; suspension has 40,XXX miles on it though. Anyone know how long those suspensions last (stock, not "slammed" w/ cheap springs/coilovers)? Also, any camber/mounting issues anyone has encountered? I've heard 2" drop all the way around w/ a nearly stock ride. Anyone have any pics to share?

P.S. I'd like to thank TRE36 for the help/guidance in narrowing down what works best w/ my MY05 FXT.
 

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Premium Member
2012 camry se 6AT
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2,809 Posts
You should expect a drop closer to 3"

Have fun and enjoy your new mod.

PS. You're welcome.
 

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Registered
2005 FXT
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353 Posts
Mine lasted 6 month then started clunking. I went back to stock.
Looking back, I should have waited then got coilovers.
 

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Registered
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394 Posts
Yeah you might run into the dreaded rear strut clunk. It doesn't really effect handling, just annoying as heck. It happened on my '05 STi at 17k miles. Had them replaced under warranty, and I'm at 33k now and no clunk......yet (knock on wood)
 
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I just secured some jdm v8 sti shocks and struts with 9k on them. I was wondering if anyone with the turboxs stealth back and sti suspension has had any rubbing issues?
 

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BLUE WASABI, (#2 Info Provider)
2008 SG Model D
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9,051 Posts
FXT said:
I just secured some jdm v8 sti shocks and struts with 9k on them. I was wondering if anyone with the turboxs stealth back and sti suspension has had any rubbing issues?
You should talk to Damwagn about his setup...he got TXS to custom reweld a pipe that better fits the FXT setup when it is lowered to not worry about scraping.
 

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worn out cams
05 FXT
Joined
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899 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
NahdaDamdyke said:
The ride wont be like a stock Forester. It'll be much firmer but that's the reason for puttting these on right?
Uh... yup. I agree now that they're on there.
 

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worn out cams
05 FXT
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899 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
tre36 said:
You should expect a drop closer to 3"

Have fun and enjoy your new mod.

PS. You're welcome.
Measurements from hub center to wheel well (before/after):

LF: 17.5"/14.5"
RF: 17.5"/14.5"
LR: 17.0"/14.5"
RR: 17.0"/14.5"

So you're right; 3.0"/2.5" F/R drop; more than what I expected.
 

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worn out cams
05 FXT
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899 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Pastor Spomer said:
Mine lasted 6 month then started clunking. I went back to stock.
Looking back, I should have waited then got coilovers.
What year STI did these come from?
Petty said:
Yeah you might run into the dreaded rear strut clunk. It doesn't really effect handling, just annoying as heck. It happened on my '05 STi at 17k miles. Had them replaced under warranty, and I'm at 33k now and no clunk......yet (knock on wood)
Is this a problem w/ both 2004 and 2005 STIs?
 

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Premium Member
2012 camry se 6AT
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2,809 Posts
sonny said:
Measurements from hub center to wheel well (before/after):

LF: 17.5"/14.5"
RF: 17.5"/14.5"
LR: 17.0"/14.5"
RR: 17.0"/14.5"

So you're right; 3.0"/2.5" F/R drop; more than what I expected.
But aren't you happy the Forester no longer rides like a boat? :)

Let's see some pics.

***Edit***

Nevermind, just saw your pics in the member's gallery thread. Looks great!
 

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worn out cams
05 FXT
Joined
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899 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
tre36 said:
But aren't you happy the Forester no longer rides like a boat? :)

Let's see some pics.

***Edit***

Nevermind, just saw your pics in the member's gallery thread. Looks great!
Whoops. Forgot to post them; yeah, man, it rides a bit stiffer but it is WELL WORTH the tradeoff for great handling and road feel. Here they are:











And from researching on iwsti.com and wrxfanatics.com, it seems that the clunking is for 04s and 05s; guess the AGXs will have to be swapped over when the clunking starts driving me up a wall.
 

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Premium Member
2004 FXTi
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764 Posts
sonny said:
Whoops. Forgot to post them; yeah, man, it rides a bit stiffer but it is WELL WORTH the tradeoff for great handling and road feel.
And from researching on iwsti.com and wrxfanatics.com, it seems that the clunking is for 04s and 05s; guess the AGXs will have to be swapped over when the clunking starts driving me up a wall.
You might also want to do some research over at NASIOC. Jack up the rear and apply a little lube and the clunk will disappear for a few months/few thousand miles. I'd just consider it maintanace for the STI rear struts.

Regards,
Justin Wade
2004 FXTi
 

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Registered
2004 XT
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432 Posts
sonny said:
What year STI did these come from?

Is this a problem w/ both 2004 and 2005 STIs?
please explain this "dreaded rear strut clunk"???

I have not swapped to the STI suspension but I do have a Cobb sway bar F/R with Perrin Enlinks. I have a "clunk" coming from what seems to be my Drivers Side Rear Strut and it is driving me MAD! I have checked everything underneath and I cannot find where the noise is coming from. Can you clarify where i should grease to find out if it is the strut? also, anyone know what causes the clunk?

I took it to the dealer because i had both a bad squeak and a clunk and they just said it was the cobb sway bar and didnt do anything. I then gave it some thought and it turned out i never tourqued the sway bar brackets to spec (due to lack of a tourque wrench) but i now have one so i went back and corrected and greased. it was too tight so there was no grease in it. but i still have the clunk and i want to have the strut replaced if thats it!

THANKS!!!!!!!!
 

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Premium Member
'09 STI
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4,129 Posts
In your case, since you haven't installed the inverted STi struts, I'd say it might be your top nut on the strut. They loosen up especially if you offroad. The metal on the top hat where the strut rod sits gets hammered down after a while and creates play between the top hat and the strut rod. Could also be a loose link. Check those too.

The clunk refered to in this thread is due to the design of inverted struts.
Because the damper is inverted, the actual damper body is on top. It's obviously much larger than a normal strut rod. Because of this design the damper body rides in bushings inside of the strut and needs to be regreased inside periodically. A lot of people just spray grease or silicone on the strut rod and this will help for a while. The clunk noise is from the rod binding in the bushings and when it releases, it makes a clunk or rubbing sound. Usually only happens at normal droop and a small bump will overcome the friction. Doubt this is your problem.
 

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Registered
2004 XT
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432 Posts
NahdaDamdyke said:
In your case, since you haven't installed the inverted STi struts, I'd say it might be your top nut on the strut. They loosen up especially if you offroad. The metal on the top hat where the strut rod sits gets hammered down after a while and creates play between the top hat and the strut rod. Could also be a loose link. Check those too.

The clunk refered to in this thread is due to the design of inverted struts.
Because the damper is inverted, the actual damper body is on top. It's obviously much larger than a normal strut rod. Because of this design the damper body rides in bushings inside of the strut and needs to be regreased inside periodically. A lot of people just spray grease or silicone on the strut rod and this will help for a while. The clunk noise is from the rod binding in the bushings and when it releases, it makes a clunk or rubbing sound. Usually only happens at normal droop and a small bump will overcome the friction. Doubt this is your problem.
well that sounds like a definite possibility! that woudl be great and easy solution! can you get to the bolts w/o cutting the interior?
 

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Premium Member
'09 STI
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4,129 Posts
All you need to remove is the plastic covers on the strut towers and then you can either use an impact gun or a pass through ratchet (cheap at Sears) and an allen wrench. Hopefully that's it.

Oops. You'll need to also remove the strut to body nuts to remove the cover on top of the struts. All of this should be done with the car on the ground. When you replace the strut to body nuts, torque to 14ft.lbs. only. It's easy to snap those studs!
 

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Registered
2004 XT
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432 Posts
NahdaDamdyke said:
All you need to remove is the plastic covers on the strut towers and then you can either use an impact gun or a pass through ratchet (cheap at Sears) and an allen wrench. Hopefully that's it.

Oops. You'll need to also remove the strut to body nuts to remove the cover on top of the struts. All of this should be done with the car on the ground. When you replace the strut to body nuts, torque to 14ft.lbs. only. It's easy to snap those studs!
THANKS! Torque specs are key!
 
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