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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

Just bought my second car (but first Forester) a little while back and looking at doing a few off road mods to it. So far it's pretty stock. Nothing too special.

Model: MY02 Forester
Colour: White / Black Trim
Engine: 4cyl 2.0 n/a
Transmission: 5sp Manual
Kilometres at purchase: 190,000

Future Modifications:

1) 2" Strut Lift
2) Larger and better off road tyres/wheels
3) Re-paint the bonnet (It's not too bad, but it has a few tiny bubbles)
4) Tow ball harness
5) Possible snorkel
6) Install (first buy) factory fog lights
7) UHF System
8) Rear diff breather


Any other mod suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've looked around the forum a bit for ideas too. Being a student, I don't have a huge amount of money to pour into it right now, so they'll slowly but gradually be done.

Current Modifications and Upgrades:

- Cool White LED parkers
- Narva Blue Plus 90 H4 lamps
- Buffed up the headlights (Came up quite clean considering they're 10 year old plastic ones)
- Kenwood headunit
- 4x 5" 75w RMS kevlar speakers
- Incline Gauges
- LED interior lights
- Took the rear window tint off (it was put on SO terribly by last owner)
- LED license plate lights
- 1Din Switch Housing
- JVC 12" 500w Subwoofer
- LED strip work light in boot
- Calibre Digital volt gauge
- Radiator Cut off switch Part One
- Blacked out grille
- Radiator Shroud
- Under Body Bash Guard
- Radiator Cut off switch Part Two
- Rear Swaybar Quick Disconnects
- Leaking valve cover
Personel Maintenance:

- 196k
Bosch Platinum IR Fusion Spark Plug - F11-4
K&N Panel Filter
Nulon Engine Flush
Ryco Oil Filter
Nulon Engine Oil

- 200k
Bosch Ignition Leads
Nulon Gearbox Oil
Nulon Long-life Coolant

- Leaking valve cover

Thanks guys
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Incline Gauge

So I pulled this set out of an old Land Cruiser, or a Patrol or something....can't quite remember. But with a bit of modification, I managed to get it to fit into the spare DIN slot in the centre console.

Replaced the light with a blue LED and I think it works pretty well. Unfortunately it was originally from a 24v vehicle, so the clock part of it doesn't work as of yet, but I'm looking at wiring that in so that it behaves more like a trip timer, not sure yet.



Cheers
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
1 Din Storage Install

So this flappy lid thing is okay....but I want to mount some gauges and switches somewhere for different things. (Voltmetre, subwoofer switch, footwell neons and work lights)
I've seen a few other people around here adapting this position into a Din slot, so I'm just going to put a thin piece of sheet metal and use that as the facing for it.



So I've, once again, had another successful trip to the wreckers. I picked up this single din housing off a 1999 forester.



Then I walked over to a forester the same year as mine just to check if it fits, and was super stoked when I pulled the cover lid thing off, that the mounts for this bracket was under it.



Once I had installed the metal bracket to hold it on, it quite literally just slipped into position and screwed on.



At the moment I've just got a spare empty Din slot to keep things tidy while I work on fabricating the metal face for the switches and gauges.



And all of this for under $30.00AUD. Once I make the faceplate I'll post more photos.

EDIT

I've made a pretty simple faceplate with some switches in it. The one on the far left is an illuminated blue rocker switch for the neons in the foot wells. The first black one the left mutes and un mutes the audio system. And the next one to the right of that connects and disconnects the remote cable for the subwoofer in the boot. I wired this in because when I'm working on site or something like that, I like to have the radio or something on. But don't want to drain my battery by having the 500w sub amplifier on the whole time.



I just made a template out of cardboard and then traced onto some aluminium sheeting that I had lying around. They were super easy to wire in. The black ones are either on or off, doesn't get much simpler!



Cheers guys
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Digital Volt Gauge Install

Today I installed my Digital Calibre Volt Gauge I got from SCA. I've had my eye on one of these for a while now, and they went on sale the other day. And who doesn't love saving 50% off?! Especially for a nice digital one. Also got a nice Drift gauge cup to go with it.



Tools you'll need:

2x Small screws
1x Philips Head screwdriver
Permanent marker
Soldering iron
Shrinkwrap
Lighter
Single core cable (pretty much speaker cable)
Multimetre (that measures V~)

Firstly I took the mount off the gauge cup and marked out on the A Pillar where I wanted it positioned.



Once this was done, I pre drilled some small holes into the plastic to make it screw in a bit easier. It's SO much easier to remove the mount. I've got some mates who've purchased cheaper ones that don't come apart as much, and it's such a hassle to install, and personally, doesn't look as good! So the extra money is DEFIANTLY worth it!



After this its pretty easy to wire in (doesn't get any simpler than a volt gauge actually!). I just found a solid ground signal near the gauge and ran the positive to the 12v socket in the centre console. Obviously so it doesn't drain battery, it's on the ACC circuit.



Pretty happy with it so far. I was worried about it being a bit too bright at night or something, but it's actually fine.

Cheers
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Radiator Fan cut off switch (Part 1)

I'm going to start doing some more serious off roading pretty soon, but I want to make sure the Foz is fairly prepared for it. So I'm installing a fan cut off switch.

I bought some parts from Jaycar the other day and decided to get started on it. I purchased a two way toggle switch (CAT. NO. ST0579) and one of the missile type switch protectors (CAT. NO. ST0584).

Firstly I cut out and stripped off all of the inside plastic from one of the many spare switch covers that I have. The Dremel made this so much easier, without it, it'd be nearly impossible to get it all out.



The switch fits perfectly in between the two snap locks on the top and bottom. Then just simply screw the nuts on it.


(Open current)

Usually, if you just try and put this switch and cover together, it will only pass current when the switch is in the on position (obviously), which means that the cover is open. This wasn't going to work for me because I wanted the cover down when the fans were on so I didn't just bump them off.


(This will stop the current)

To get around this, all you have to do is get rid of that nasty little notch that's inside of the hole on the cover (putting my newly purchased Dremel 3000 to good use!) and put it on the other way.

Then just snap the switch cover back in place and it looks quite discreet.



I've not yet run the cables from the fan, but one I do, all you have to do is earth them in the cabin somewhere. I'll be cutting the negative signal because there's a lot less current flow through the negative as oppose to the positive. Also, it's easier to earth in the cabin somewhere as oppose to running another cable back to complete the circuit. You could also use a relay or something, but thats a whole other story!

Cheers
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Blacked out MY02 grille

I'm not a huge fan of shiny chrome things....personally they look gross when used in the wrong colour scheme. And the chrome grille on my black and white MY02 was no exception....

Tools you'll need:

1x 250g can of spraypaint
1x 250g can of clearcoat
Wax and grease remover
Masking tape

Firstly I removed the whole grille from the car and sanded it back so the paint would have something to stick to. Then got some degreaser on it and cleaned it real well. After masking it up, it took to it with about 4 layers of matte black spray paint. Just out of a can and not the super expensive stuff.



After letting this dry in the summer heat for a few hours, I sprayed about 3 layers of clear overcoat on it. I spent a bit more money on this stuff. Didn't want the top coat coming off and looking rubbish!



Superduper easy. I think it looks a lot better now. I want to try and cut the whole lot out and replace it with black mesh. But that'll be a while off yet. This was just a quick solution to my gross chrome finish.

The next lot of painting I'll be doing will be the bonnet. I've got a mate with an air compressor and proper painting stuff. So that'll be coming up pretty soon!

Cheers
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
LED Strip boot lightting

Hello all,

The other day I installed some additional lighting in my boot with the use of an LED strip I got on eBay. I purchased 3 of them but am still looking for a suitable home for the rest of them. I'm thinking maybe a puddle lights on the front two doors.

Anyhow, I got the idea from here, so I can't take any credit for them. I'm not going to bother going into detail as I dont't do it justice. He's got a great write up on it! With the sort of work I do with my car, the single light is no where near enough to be able to see what I'm doing! So this mod was a no brainer.





Just thought I'd show you all how mine turned out.

Cheers
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Radiator Shroud

I wish I had enough money to be able to afford the awesome Subtle Solutions Radiator Shroud and the postage for it, but sadly, I don't....

So I've had to make do with what I had around the garage. I had some of this aluminium sheet laying around from a few other projects. Once I had made a stencil, it was relatively easy to trace around and trim up a bit.

Tools you'll need:

1x Sheet of cardboard
1x Ruler
1x Pencil
1x 12mm Socket and ratchet
Sticky Tape
Measuring tape
Straight edge
Tin Snips
Drill with 10mm drill bit

A Dremel or similar made this a million times easier, but you might be able to get by without one.




Once this was done, I taped it to the sheet of aluminium, (just to stop it from moving) and traced around it. After cutting most of it out with some tin snips, I just tidied up the edges with my Dremel.



After measuring a billion times and cutting once (but trimming a few times!) it fit. Needless to say, I was pretty happy with it. I had some red calliper paint lying around from a while back and the only reasonable thing to do was paint it red! (for the extra kW of course.) Using calliper paint, it wont bubble or flake like normal spray paint might do in such a hot area.



Technically, this mod didn't cost me anything seeing as I had the paint, metal and tools all at home. But it wouldn't cost much anyhow. I think the calliper paint was about $15.00. I can't remember how much the aluminium was though. I know it's not as nice and clean as the Subtle ones, but I think it turned out alright nonetheless.



Thanks guys.
 

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2009 2.5xt 6 Speed Swap version 8 6 speed sti trans with r180
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4,150 Posts
Looking nice Joel. Very clean mods, I especially like the blacked out grille.
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Crossbred Under Body Bash Plate

So I've finally found a local who manufactures some protection for my beloved Foz. Crossbred Performance make an awesome under body bash plate, and at only $180AUD how could I possible turn this down?!
After a recent trip off road last week, I put a fairly nice dent in my sump tank that was way too close to sheering off the drain bolt for my liking. So finally buying one was a no brainer!

Tools you'll need:

1x 12mm socket and ratchet
4x M8 bolts
Locktight
Possibly degreaser

This is what the plate looks like from the manufacturer.



I firstly started off by degreasing the M8 bolts that I got just to make sure that there was no gunk and stuff on them so the locktight would get a decent contact.

The front two holes of the plate line up with two inside threaded holes on the front of the frame underneath the radiator. It's pretty easy to see in the pic (and on your car) which ones are threaded.



The back of the plate mounts to two holes on some linking plate looking thing just under the transmission. You'll see three pairs of holes here. The threaded ones in the middle of the three are the ones this plate mounts to.



Now it's just a matter of lining up the holes and boting it in. I was able to do this by myself but found it pretty difficult to hold the plate up while also bolting it in. If you were able to get a mate to help, I would imagine it'd be a bit quicker.
I used Locktight to keep the bolts in place. This is defiantly not something that you want vibrating itself loose and coming off.



I love the way it looks underneath now. SO much neater looking. I love that it's also got a hole so you're able to drain the engine without having to take it off.
Can't wait to get out and put it thorough it's paces.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Radiator Fan cut off switch (Part 2)

I've finally gotten around to doing the second half of this install mainly because work has been so busy. Late finishes and early starts leave little to no time for sleep, let alone working on the Foz.

Tools you'll need:

Wire Strippers
Cable Cutters
Soldering Iron
Solder
Philips head Screwdriver
Lighter
Heat Shrink
Eyelet Terminals
Spade Terminals
Cable Ties
Cable Protector
Single Core Cable

Firstly I started by finding the wire that needed to be cut on the fan so I could re route the negative signal elsewhere in the car. After that, just solder your single core wire onto the side that goes into the fan. Run it onto the protector to the other fan.



As you can see I just cable tied it to the existing loom to keep it tidy.
Pull your single core cable out of the insulation and cut the other cable going into the other fan and solder and heat shrink the cable to it.
Once you've done this, tap into it with more single core cable and run it through the firewall.



I found the best way was to follow the existing cable that goes to my amplifier to save drilling holes in it. Plus theres already a gromit there and I know where it comes out!



Once this is done, run it through to the drivers side where I've already mounted the switch. I ran it behind the centre console, behind the headunit and under the aircon ducts to come up under the steering wheel.

This is where I had to take the dash apart to get into it. I found somewhere to earth the cables with the eyelet terminals and soldered that on. Terminating both of the switch sides with spade terminals will make it easier to take off or move if I ever need to.





Test everything with a multimetre to make sure you don't short anything and of course to make sure it works without doing any damage first.
Of course, it's all good. Keen to head out and give it a go.

Cheers
 

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2001 Sorta Frush Forester 4EAT
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1,779 Posts
i like all the DIY stuff its pretty useful! ill have to do the radiator shroud now :biggrin:
 

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2002 ForesterMY02 Limited 5sp Manual
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Leaking valve cover.

So I'd recently noticed the check engine light had come on :icon_confused: so the first thing I did was check oil levels. Sure enough it was pretty low. Upon further inspection, the bottom of the right hand side valve cover was leaking :icon_evil: .

After calling around and getting quotes for mechanics to do it or ordering parts from an auto store, I came to the conclusion that I couldn't justify spending the money they were asking for a piece of rubber! I was talking to a guy at work and he said that it's not too bad, why not just try some gasket glue / filler.
This was a much better idea seeing as it was only a small leak and the glue / filler costs about 100 times less.

Tools you'll need:

10mm socket and ratchet
10mm spanner
Silicone Gasket Maker
Degreaser
Axel stands
Torch

Firstly, jack up the car and place the axel stands in. Then you'll need to remove the air intake hose on the top of it and take out the ignition leads. Then you'll have to undo the 5 bolts that hold the valve cover on. There are one on each corner and one in the centre. Heads up, the bottom one closest to the firewall is the hardest do undo, it's ridiculous! I found it's easier to remove the battery and water tank to get to these. They are all different, so label them or whatever to make sure they go back in the same place.
Ensuring you don't damage the valves, remove the valve cover.





Remove the spark plug O rings and the whole gasket. My gasket was in pretty good condition, it must've just had a small fracture somewhere. So I took it off and put a small bead of the silicone gasket maker around the whole valve cover and put the gasket back on.

Now just replace the valve cover and do the bolts up. Obviously correct ones in their respective positions.
As I was taking it off, I had noticed that one of the bolts didn't have the seal and washer that's meant to sit between the head and the cover. So I made my own. Simply got a washer and a piece of cork that I had from a previous gasket job.
Cut it to size and we'll see how it goes!



Lower the car back down so it's level and check how much oil is left. The level on my dipstick was just under half, so I just topped it up.

I'll post in another week or so about progress and wether or not it was successful.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Rear Swaybar Quick Links

The idea of removing the sway bar off road is to gain more flex. Do do this you have to remove bolts that hold it on. This is pretty lame to do everytime you want to go off road. So I installed some clevis pins to replace the bolts so all you've got to do is remove a split pin.

Tools you'll need:

2x Clevis Pins (3/8" x 2")
6x Washers (3/8")
14mm Spanner
14mm Ratchet
2x Split Rings

This is a super easy mod. There are two sets of botls per side for the rear swaybar. I replaced the bottom ones because I could move the bushing up over the bar to stay there when I took them off.



Undo them and put in the clevis pin with a washer or two on each side. Put the spit ring in and thats it!



These are just as strong as the bolts that were there originally because clevis pins are designed to take sheer loads.

Pretty keen to head out next time and give them a go!
Cheers
 
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