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Discussion Starter #1
-+Once upon a time, oh, 2 months ago, I got what I thought was THE deal!
2003 Forester automatic, was dead, (overheated, parked for 2 years), looked not too bad.... $200 how can I go wrong!!??
Towed it home, got it fired up, and WOW! head gasket issues.
125,000 miles, someone had put a new water pump and radiator on it before the P.O. gave up on it and parked it.
Yanked motor, did head gaskets and timing belt.
Put it back in and not too many miles later a NICE piston slap started!
I bought this to travel to the thousand islands (220 miles 1 way), so it has to be 100%.
I thought rebuild, but then, why not a JMD motor?? rebuild this motor and ????
So, I got a JPM motor from a Calf. company off E-bay.
Has between 44,000 and 50,000 miles, (they give me the motor serial # so, I kinda sorta know what I got).
Got it today.
Now the intake has to be swapped out, looks like wiring is different.
There is a EGR tube in the head to the current intake.
So, as far as I can see (real quick lookie), the intake, wiring harness, AC compressor looks different, (smaller).
What else has to be done????
I'm gonna pull the timing belt kit off the old engine and put in the JMD motor, (as well as a new water pump I bought).
What about doing the head gaskets head bolts whilist I have it on the stand or do you think a 50,000 miles I have a lo of miles left?????
I've tried to surf the net to find out WHAT has to be swapped out 2.5 to a 2.5, funny I found nothing??!!
advice? tips? help??
tanks!
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update.......
Strip the JMD motor after getting it on the engine stand.
PS, Alt, AC pump, (bracket).
Took the wiring harness off REAL careful. Really not too much. Main plug is cool looking though!!
After peeling off intake, (most of the sh** came off with that), it IS just a plain old EJ25.
The EGR tube on the drivers head to the intake came off really easy, (was very surprised).
The threads for the tube are metric, as I tried a few plugs I had in the shop.
I'm going to look for a "official" plug, if not, may go to junk yard and get one, (I also need the drivers side timing belt cover, as this one is cracked).
IF I can't find one, I may, 1) weld a cap on the fitting, 2) cut the tube and "roll it" closed and re install
Tomorrow, I'll look at the old motor (still in Subbie), and see the details.
Still undecided IF I should pull heads and replace gaskets, (I'm sure that will void my 90 day warranty, but, would hate to pull the motor in a 10,000 miles to do those......... thoughts.... Anyone??
So, that's where i stand.....
Joe
Many times I think thing out too much....
 

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2000 Forester Auto
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you will need to change BOTH the Crank gear and The drivers side Cam gear along with the sensors.
The flex plate/flywheel on the 2.0 is smaller so take the old one off the 2.5
i noticed on my 2.o that it had mls gaskets already so i wouldnt change them.
just find a plug for the egr tube on the back of the engine
you use the 2.5 intake manifold and all the goodies on it.
 

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2003 Forester X 5 MT
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Plug for the EGR port on the head is filled with a oil drain plug (and gasket). Do the timing belt stuff. Use your old intake manifold and original accessories. For the PCV valve just get a piece of 3/4 inch OD hose and get a 3/4 to 3/8 Pipe Thread reducer and screw your PCV valve into the bushing. Use a clamp around the hose on the pipe coming out of the block. Reseal the rear Oil Separator plate. Check for dropped valve guides before putting engine in. Replace valve cover gaskets and Spark Plug Tube seals.
 

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this is the crank gear.
notice the one with the belt still on it has more teeth at the back of the gear
the one without the belt has only 5 i think. you need to use that one with only five lobes. the car wont start without changing.
Do NOt ask me how i know this.(they looked the same at first glance so i got lazy)
 

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Fortunately for me I had read a number of posts about JDM engine swaps before I did mine so was prepared to swap the drivers Cam and Crank gears over. Started right up on first click!
 

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me too! as i said I got lazy, they looked the same at first glance.
I just tonight pulled the oil pan on one of my engines that had a rod knock.
#4 was real bad. I want to do another JDM swap but wife wants engine rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks to all!
This a 2.5 to a 2.5 swap, (I had thought about a 2.5 to a 2.0 swap. I help my buddy last summer do his on the mirror image of my Forester do a 2.5 to a 2.0). We swapped gears and he's happy with it.
I'm going to use this Forester not only to run to the Thousand Islands almost every weekend, but, also pull my boat the 1/2 block to the boat ramp and retrieve- hence why I bought a Forester- towing #2500.
I use my wife's 2016 CRV now, so I know it'll do it, that's why I'm keeping the 2.5!
I hadn't thought about the PVC valve! When I get the 2 motors side by side I'll look at that, but will remember the hose trick!
IF it ever gets nice here in N.E.Pa., (I put the orginal engine in 15 degree days and FROZE my old arse off, (in my driveway no less)!
I needed a 19mm oil pan plug to fill the EGR hole. I searched last Saturday, only to fail!
I sat Sunday and stared at the hole........ "At this point, I don't want to ruin the EGR pipe".
The "passage hole" is a bit larger than a 3/8" drill bit, hmmmmmm.
I tapped the hole with a 12mm- 1.5 tap, and installed a bolt.
I made a almn. "plate", (from a road sign), to cover the pipe thread hole to act as a gasket, installed a concave washer over that to hold it all snug.
Looks good and should work.
If not, the pipe threads are still prefect, I'll cut the tube and roll it and use that.
So, that's where I stand, the JMD motor is on the stand waiting. I'm running the "knocker" til the snow melts a bit, temps go up a bit and lets push it.... sunny!
Joe
 

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Job Done!!
Fired right up! Nice.... no piston slap!:)
SO here is skinny in case anyone googles how to do the swap or, just plain info!
I got the JMD motor, threw it on the stand and stripped it down to the block.
First thought were to do the head gaskets, then a complete timing belt swap.
The company I got the motor from, stated IF I did the head gaskets, no warranty, so that cured that.
EGR tube....... first I tapped the hole 10mm 1.5 (I could not find a 19 mm plug), bolt, almn. plate and washer to hold it in place. Looked good!
When I yanked the "knocker" out, I ended pulling and using used the plug in the back of the head on the side
The coolant tube under the intake..... The coolant sensor was towards the front of the engine, "knocker" tube was to the back.
2 "O" rings from Subaru and swapped tube
I also got a bottle of the "recall" additive for the coolant
I got the same thermostat as in the "knocker" thermostat, (was a bit cooler than the JMD thermo).
Didn't use the oil cooler from the "knocker", (figured how cool could the oil get with a few inches of radiator coolant flowing @ it????
I get a air cooled cooler and add later
"Knocker" wiring harness and intake
"knocker crank and cam gear pulleys , (WAY different pick ups magnets).
I used the "knocker" knock sensor, (was new).
took 1 1/2 to yank "knocker' out.
Maybe 3 hours in the shop with motor on stand to strip and replace items (I did a LOT of checking the JMD motor out to make sure it was good)
2 hours reinstall
Not a KILLER of a job, but, time consuming. Have to watch your P's and Q's on the swap
So,
use the cam and crank pulleys from donor
new timing belt kit
The coolant tube from donor, (if your coolant sensor is on the other side)
2- coolant tube "O" rings, (Subaru)
Cooler thermostat, (person preference), (Subaru)
Bottle of the Subaru coolant additive to TRY to extend the life of the head gaskets
The plug from the donor for the EGR tube hole.
Donor wiring harness
Donor intake
That's it folks!
Joe
 
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