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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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You can lift the rear up by placing your "padded" (scrap piece of 2"X6") floor jack on the rear differential. As to the front, you'll have to do one side at a time. I use my floor, again padded, to lift on the subframe connector, where it attaches to the body. Look under there & you'll see what I mean. It's the safest place I found to lift the front. As I says, both rear can be done at one time. The front has to be done, one side at a time. :smile:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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Was hoping to get a floor jack under the rockers centered somewhere and swap rear to front in one swoop.
Peaty had a "pinch weld adapter" for the saddle on his floor jack, which is like what the stock scissor jack has. With that you would be able to do it how you want. There isn't really anywhere in the middle of the sides to lift with a cup like floor jack.
 

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You can lift the rear up by placing your "padded" (scrap piece of 2"X6") floor jack on the rear differential. As to the front, you'll have to do one side at a time. I use my floor, again padded, to lift on the subframe connector, where it attaches to the body. Look under there & you'll see what I mean. It's the safest place I found to lift the front. As I says, both rear can be done at one time. The front has to be done, one side at a time. :smile:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
You can jack up the whole front end easily by putting the jack on the jacking plate in the center of the crossmember.

Easiest would be to jack up the front, put 2 jackstands under the car, then jack up the rear and and put it up on jackstand. Then you have all 4 wheels up. I wouldn't get under the car with it up like this.

Don't jack up only a corner if one end is already in the air, and definitely not if the only thing holding it up is a jack on the diff.

Peaty has a good post on scoobymods about the correct jacking points on the forester.
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Thanks for the picture! Okay, I see there is a safe lift point on the front. I didn't think those small metal pieces could support the vehicle weight! I'll have to give that a try next time. :cool:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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2015 2.5i base CVT
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They are listed in you owners manual. Available for download at MySubaru.com

But here is a pictorial aid:biggrin:
I'll bump this thread, to get information on floor jacking points for the 2014+ Forester. I have not found your pictorial aid in the owners manual for my 2015.

My concern is for tire rotations at Discount Tire. I want to be sure they lift where they should. I suppose they know, but I'm a distrustful sort of guy.
 

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2012 XT Touring 4EAT
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Best jack point to raise the Foz for tire rotation?
Seriously consider rotating your tires front-to-rear only. To do that, loosen all the lugs on one side of the vehicle. Then, place your on-vehicle jack at the front jacking point. As you lift the vehicle, you should notice that both tires on that side are lifting.

It helps if you have 2 or 3 blocks of wood (4x4x12" plus a few 2x4x12" blocks work fine) to place under the rear edge of the vehicle, else when the remove the front tire, the rear of vehicle may go down a bit. Switch the tires, snug up the lug nuts, remove any blocks and lower the vehicle, tighten the lugs and you're good to go.

These blocks are useful for many vehicle service operations - think of them as super reliable car stands (with no moving parts).
 

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It helps if you have 2 or 3 blocks of wood (4x4x12" plus a few 2x4x12" blocks work fine) to place under the rear edge of the vehicle, else when the remove the front tire, the rear of vehicle may go down a bit. ...
Or, take the rear tire off first, then the front. Swap them, and install the newly-designated front tire first. That should raise the rear if it has indeed sagged.
 

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Or, take the rear tire off first, then the front. Swap them, and install the newly-designated front tire first. That should raise the rear if it has indeed sagged.
That will work. It's usually not a big deal - it sags (or maybe the axle drops) just enough that it's hard to get the tire mounted.
 

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2005 Forester Automatic
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To use a floor jack:

If you have a table saw, or even a basic hand saw and some woodworking skills, you can take a 6" long piece of 2x4 and cut a groove into it, such that it clears the pinch weld and distributes the lift over the pinch weld more evenly.. Takes a little trial and error. On my 05 at least (and my Nissan Leaf, where I did this first), there is an additional piece of reinforcing metal precisely behind those jack points.

You cannot lift just anywhere along the side of the vehicle.

I went one step further and made a notch in the backside of the wood block to accommodate for the extra reinforcing metal. That keeps the block from "tipping" at all. But I don't think that really needed.. Just something spread the lift of the floor jack a little, and prevent it from damaging the pinch weld.

I also really like using my Nissan scissor jack. Some bright Nissan engineer replaced the usual "hook" on the end of the screw thread, with a hex head the same size as the lug nuts on the Nissan. So the lug nut wrench also raises the jack. But what's beautiful -- an 18 mm socket on my air impact raises the vehicle faster than my floor jack. At least in my case, the impact does not even use the "impact", it just rotates and fast. Like 5 seconds and the car is in the air! So I can rotate tires with the floor jack under one jack point (front) and the scissor jack under the rear, and presto, the vehicle is tipped up and I can buzz the tires off and swap one side in a minute or two.....

In fact, the Nissan jack combined with an air wrench is so sweet, I have been tempted to buy another Nissan jack for general uses. Seems like about all vehicles use a minor variation of the "pinch weld" lift these days....
 

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2015 2.5i base CVT
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So I can rotate tires with the floor jack under one jack point (front) and the scissor jack under the rear, and presto, the vehicle is tipped up and I can buzz the tires off and swap one side in a minute or two.....
I like that idea. I used to use just one jack, but on my precious 2015 I'll switch to using two.

Coincidentally, today I made a block like you describe, for use on a floor jack. I drilled a through hole, then (not having a table saw) made two handsaw cuts to make the deep groove. This block is a 2-inch cube of hardwood -- I will make a longer one as you suggest to spread the load more evenly.
 

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... Takes a little trial and error.
I got the error. I had a short pine block with the grain running parallel to the flats. To this I yellow-glued two strips of hardwood, each about the size of a pen-blank, to make the "groove." When I jacked up at the front pinch welds the edge pressure was sufficient to split the pine block.

I'll try making another, perhaps with an oak block.
 
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