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13 Work Boot Do it yourself
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583 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anything that I have to be aware of or need before doing it?
Thanks
Nick
 

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Registered
2005 LGT Limited wagon
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553 Posts
you need the sti bypass valve (i have one if you don't)
it's best to use the stock sti y-pipe as opposed to an aftermarket piece
supposedly you will lose boost pressure if you're still running the stock turbo, i don't see how. i would think if anything it might spool a little slower to fill the extra space.
your a/c lines will need to be bent away from the intercooler, especially underneath where one of the lines is prone to rubbing on one of the y-pipe elbows.
 

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13 Work Boot Do it yourself
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583 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
oooo...perfect ..
thank you ,
and so promp a responce!!
HAHAHA!!!
Thanks
Nick
 

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BLUE WASABI, (#2 Info Provider)
2008 SG Model D
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9,051 Posts
BlueDevil said:
your a/c lines will need to be bent away from the intercooler, especially underneath where one of the lines is prone to rubbing on one of the y-pipe elbows.
You will need to put some pipe insulation or better around the a/c lines where it will come into contact w/ the TMIC otherwise it will rub through the line.

Again, make sure you have all necessary parts, washers, gaskets, bolts, hoses, etc...
 

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13 Work Boot Do it yourself
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583 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Im about to take the friggin A/C out now..LOL!
 

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formerly known as Benrock05201
2012 GMC 2500 HD Automatic
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2,225 Posts
I just bent mine back towards the firewall and have never had a problem. There is about a half inch clearance between the intercooler and the pipe. I have looked many times for signs of them making contact with each other and haven't been able to see any yet.

Ben
 

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BLUE WASABI, (#2 Info Provider)
2008 SG Model D
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9,051 Posts
Benrock05201 said:
I just bent mine back towards the firewall and have never had a problem. There is about a half inch clearance between the intercooler and the pipe. I have looked many times for signs of them making contact with each other and haven't been able to see any yet.

Ben
It will show up, trust me. I didn't see it for a while but then a couple months later upon further inspection I could see it wearing a crater-like hole in my pipe...went to home depot and grabbed some of the thick foam pipe insulation w/ the split...unfortunately it only came in 6ft lengths and I only needed a couple inches but luckily it only cost me $5:wink:
 

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Recovering Modaholic
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1,304 Posts
the ac lines are easily bent out of the way, takes less than a minute. no insualtion needed, just push back on the L line and down and back on the H line. the H pressure line comes in contact w/ the bottom of the y-pipe, so just a visual inspection wont reveal any rubbing, you have to remove the TMIC to see if there are any problems. The L line (larger dia AC line) is easily inspected with the TMIC installed, just make sure its pushed back toward the firewall.
 

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13 Work Boot Do it yourself
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583 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thinking about keeping the A/C line close to the intercooler so when I turn it on it cools the top tank...NO JK..LOL
Installing it tonight...
Then I can work on the splitter for us!
 

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13 Work Boot Do it yourself
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583 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
2 HomeDepots, 2 lowes, 1 pet store, and 1 dealer and I still cant find the protective wrap and PVC hoses for my intercooler...gettin mad..
 

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2006 '06 FXT
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835 Posts
Try an auto parts store - get a heater hose or similar - nice and thick, should protect it well.
 

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BLUE WASABI, (#2 Info Provider)
2008 SG Model D
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9,051 Posts
Evil XT said:
2 HomeDepots, 2 lowes, 1 pet store, and 1 dealer and I still cant find the protective wrap and PVC hoses for my intercooler...gettin mad..
I have a crap load left over, I can ship it to you next week if you PM me your address.:wink:
 

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13 Work Boot Do it yourself
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Discussion Starter #16
The 20 minute installation isnt as easy as everyone talks about. Im up to 2 hours and it isnt even in yet.
No one mensions that the Bypass valve hose that is all rubber on the STi is half copper or aluminum on the XT. That copper hose is bolted under the throttle body.
The only way to get to it is with a 1/4 inch 10mm swivel that I pray will take it off.
If not, there is a 05 Forester for sale with 8000 miles on it...
 

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2006 RX8
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423 Posts
I know that many people just remove the t-body to gain access to remove the bolt and metal pipe section in question. Hopefully though the 1/4" drive will work for you. If you have access to a Sears department store, you could also go to the tool section and buy a 1/4" mini flex extension. Looks like a spring extension, and that might give you some additional wiggle room. Just some ideas.

Remember nothing is insurmountable, just make sure that if you do take the t-body off do not....I repeat...do not, drop anything down into the intake. That would certainly make things go from bad to worse.... .

Good luck...keep a positive attitude, you will get it off.

Jeff
 

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13 Work Boot Do it yourself
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583 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Itll come off now...brought muffler chizzle home with me!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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2004 Forester XT 4EAT
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177 Posts
I'm doing this install tomorrow, too. I hope it isn't all that bad and goes as planned. Thanks for popping this thread out here, Evil XT.
 
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