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Moderator's note: Team Scream posted this great writeup on a thread where I was simply looking for sources of fuse blocks. It was too good to just leave in the middle of a lot of other posts there, so I've copied it here by itself. I'll also set up a link from the moderated DIY forum to further publicize it.

Thanks for the great info!


Here is a detailed write up I did on a Cirkitboss I installed in my 06 WRX.
Originally posted over on Nasioc about a year ago I think.
I am going to install one in my Foz as well, this was one of the best mods I did.
It just makes it so simple to hook anything you want up to a dedicated, fused, relay controlled circuit.
I will be getting the one with a cover on it this time however.
Not because it really needs it, but because I want to conceal the fuses.

<snip>

First off, Painless Wiring makes great products, I have been using them since my hot rod Chevy days and their stuff always works great, lasts a long time and they have earned my business over the years so here ya go.

This pictorial is based on the Painless Wiring "Cirkit Boss"
This link will take you to the page where every variety of cirkit boss you could possibly want is available:
Painless Performance: Keyword Results CirKit Boss®™ Auxiliary Fuse Block/3 Circuits

I chose to use the 7 circuit version (model 70107) ($58.00) which supplies 4 switched circuits and 3 constant hot circuits with 40 amp capacity here: Painless Performance: CirKit Boss®™ Auxiliary Fuse Block/7 Circuits

The 70207 is about $76.00 and is fully weatherproof and can be seen here:
Painless Performance: CirKit Boss®™ Auxiliary Fuse Block/7 Circuits/Weatherproof

The other units they offer may be slightly better for some people, and in fact I would really have preferred to have 7 switched circuits, but they were too big, included 2 relays and would not fit where I wanted to put mine so I chose the 70107 for that reason.

Anyway, for what I have in mind for the near future, 4 switched circuits will be fine for me, and if I need an additional switched circuit, I can wire in my own relay right next to whatever new circuit I happen to need at the time, and power it from one of the 3 constant hot circuits the 70107 provides, and still know I am fuse protected, and drawing power straight from the battery.
One other option I thought about was to turn each of these (3) constant hot circuits into individually switched circuits by simply adding an inline switch wherever I want or need one. Each of those circuits will still be fuse protected so the options are really endless with this set up.

So here we go.

First image shows where I chose to mount my Cirkit Boss which is on the bracket that holds the BCS and other stuff on the front of the passenger strut tower.
Place the Cirkit Boss against the front of the bracket as you see mine in the picture, get it positioned so that you can mark the bracket where you will need to drill 4 holes to secure the Cirkit Boss to the bracket.
I found that there is only one way this thing will fit on the bracket and allow you to actually get all 4 bolts placed properly.
Next you will need to remove the BCS bracket, and disconnect anything that attaches to it.

Take it to your bench and line up the Cirkit Boss with the marks you made for the holes to make sure you are good, then drill them to accommodate whatever hardware you choose to use.



Once the Cirkit Boss is secured to the bracket including the 2 supplied rubber spacers which are required to give you enough space BEHIND the Cirkit Boss to route the wires, you are ready to start preparing the wires.
I chose to protect the all of the wires with expandable sleeve, it keeps it clean and protects the wires.

I used 1/4" expandable sleeve and placed all 7 of the circuit wires, PLUS the switch lead that trips the relay in one sleeve and the POWER and GROUND wires in another sleeve.

You will run the power and ground bundle over to the battery, and run the new circuits (bundle) through the grommet in the firewall and into the passenger compartment if you are following my lead, if not and you need a circuit or 2 in the engine compartment, then split off those circuits and run them as you will.
I ran everything into the passenger compartment for my needs.

The next few pictures will show you how I routed the wire bundles, and where I connected the 50 amp circuit breaker they provided with the kit.

This pic shows how I routed the wires behind the BCS bracket, you will actually do this first and then bolt the bracket back onto the car


This pic shows how I kept everything snug around the strut tower. It made the most sense to me to keep it as clean as possible and as far away from the heat sources as I could.


A little clearer view from behind the BCS bracket and how I routed the bundles of wire.


Here is where I ran my circuit bundle into the passenger compartment through the grommet, I used a pair of flush cutters to snip a very small cut into the grommet and then forced the bundle through, this way it keeps the grommet as sealed around the wire bundle as possible.


Route the power lead around the firewall, I chose to keep this bundle close to the firewall and secure it to the brake hard lines that follow the firewall.


I am anal so I leave a little loop here as strain relief in case I need to move something or to account for engine movement....safety mainly.


I chose to mount the circuit breaker to the air pump madness, it was out of the way, a nice solid mount point and easily drilled to accommodate the circuit breaker, I sealed the studs of the breaker with liquid electrical tape after i was finished and had tested everything, you can just as easily use silicone seal.


Next, you will need to make up a lead that goes from the battery to the circuit breaker, then you connect the POWER lead that comes from the Cirkit Boss to the other side of the breaker, it is marked for your convenience so you will know which side of the breaker gets the battery lead.


Finally, you will need to hook up the "switched" lead to one of your circuits somewhere.
I choose to use the 30 amp fuse inside the car that powers the cigg lighter.... All this does is turn the Cirkit Boss relay on which allows power to flow through your (4) switched circuits. Remember, if you get the same one I did, you will have 3 circuits that are always hot, so either pull the fuses on the Cirkit Boss for those 3 circuits, or make damn sure you terminated those wires safely so that they are not an accident waiting to happen THAT IS if you are NOT going to use those circuits right away.


All in all this took me a couple of hours to do once I decided where it was going to go. I did spend a couple of hours a few different times trying to figure out a good place to mount it but once I settled in on the BCS bracket, it was about a 2 hour job.
Painless makes a cover for the fuse panel portion and I am ordering that to see if it makes it feel a little less exposed.

My immediate use for these circuits are: (1) meth pump (9 amp) - (2) Spiider DCCDpro (6 amp) - (3) CarPuter (unknown load) - (4) Radar/Laser (unknown load) - (5) Gauges (unknown load)

I hope someone can use this and that I have helped at least one person...
Thanks!
 
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