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I only use 2 spring compressor. I am using cheap harbor freight one and they work for me. I have to grab 2 coils and they would compress the spring evenly without causing problem with top hat alignment. Yes I am using stacked washer as spacer. I found that it would be possible to use drill with the same dimension.

The rear insert have a lot longer travel and with the different weight distribution, suspension motion ratio, the damping would be really screwy if you use rear insert up front.
 
A little update.

This setup definitely took some time to dial in. For some reason my KONI need some break in period also. The first time I install it was really stiff:Banane36:. Its almost unbearably stiff that start looking at other ways to soften the suspension

First I remove my 24mm swaybar. The swaybar are too hard for my taste even with stock strut anyway. So I put stock 20 mm front back and get 20 mm STI rear bar for now. I might still update to 22 mm front and rear at later time.

After swaybar swap it still feel too stiff so I start playing with tire pressure. The good thing is actually I been running 36 PSI front and 34 PSI rear to compensate for the stock strut and tire soft sidewall. By lowering the tire pressure I actually gain grip since the tire are getting better contact patch. I am running 33 PSI front and 31 PSI rear now.

Its much nicer now after I find the right setup. I finally settled at 3/8 of a turn front and rear. Less than 1/3 turn it feels sloppy and more than 1/2 the suspension react slow, which is a sign of too much rebound/not enough spring. This is so far what I found to be optimal for my 235/50R17 Kumho 4X and swaybar setup. So your setup with different tire and swaybar might be different. I would say this setup are really comfortable yet responsive once you get it dial in properly.
 
This seems to be one of the best options if you want to keep some ride height. Since my stock struts are on there way out, this is in my plans for the near future. I'm wondering what you did for bump stops, did u just re-use the stock ones?
 
Thread revival:

Ive read this thread and others dealing with konis in the FXT a few times now, and this weekend im going to embark of the Konis with Forester specific Swifts in FXT housings.

The travel of KONI insert are the same as SG9 strut I have. The problem is they would sit about 32 mm lower in front and 38 mm lower in the rear. I am going to put spacer on mine. I am putting 1/2-3/4" of spacer to split the difference between swift drop and shorter strut body to gain some compression travel and prevent shock top out. The biggest problem is getting M12X1.5X40 needed.
however

I choose 3/4" tall spacer since the rear are riding on bumpstop when fully loaded with 4 passenger. Swift lower 1.4 up front and 1" in the back so I thinks 3/4 would be a good compromise for me.
Which not spacering the insert up the full F-32mm/ R-38 mm makes sense as I am using the forester Swift springs that lower the car.

So in reality if you were to not use spacers(or use smaller ammounts) in this install and the konis sitting 32mm(1.25 inches) lower in the front and maybe use 0.5 inch insert spacer in the rear wouldnt this put the shocks and springs in a more optimal stroke travel range, increase bump travel and help stay off the bump stops more? Or am I over thinking and calculating this.

Normally when installing Forester Swifts on the stock FXT struts is there any bump stop trimming involved?
 
dmilamj/OP did not use any spacer. So does one other person that did this. I choose to use spacer because my wife's Mazda also have Koni strut and the travel are about 40-50 mm longer than OEM strut. I do not know for what reason. Maybe that is because of the strut are shared with some Volvo and Ford that might use taller springs or they want to prevent top out. I also hear that KONI are not good if used on rough road due to overextending/spring top out. I decided to compromise and add 3/4" spacer on both end and I am happy with my decision.
 
My install went well this weekend.

I used 18mm of washers in the front and 20mm in the rear. I had to go 18mm to sink the nubs in the housing because I cut too much off the strut.

Yes, the M12-1.5x40mm are challenging to find especially in higher strength grades, and washer are cheaper by the pound.

I used a tiny drop of red thread locker on the insert bolt, because I read stories of the bolts backing out.

Overall I am satisfied with the ride, its softer than my previous set up, but still pretty firm. I have the konis at 1 full turn and it feels good driving but it seems like it might be too slow of rebound in the rear on freeway joints and really rough stuff.
 
Good to hear the install went well.

The most I could turn the rear are just 3/8 of a turn. Anything more it became too stiff. I could turn the front up to 5/8 but leave it at 3/8 most of the time.

The spring definitely could be stiffer. I haven't found anything that are stiffer but at same height. The geomety are as good as it can on Forrester and it gives really good handling at that height although it still need stiffer front swaybar to prevent going to bad camber curve.
 
Note on the install: spring compressors are a required for this set up, I was able to get away just using two compressors for the fronts and rears.

The spring definitely could be stiffer. I haven't found anything that are stiffer but at same height.
I know, I want to tell Myles at RCE to make a small run of SG Forester Springs....

The geomety are as good as it can on forester and it gives really good handling at that height although it still need stiffer front swaybar to prevent going to bad camber curve.
I have the 02-07 COBB tubular swaybar set(F/R) on my FXT. I must say im back in the same boat as when I had these bars on my WRX, the front is too weak for my preferences. Its a hollow 25mm, but from what i understands acts more like a 22.5mm or something like that.

I would suggest the whiteline 24mm if your considering changing. That is what I changed to on my WRX and I felt it was better controlling the roll than the COBB. For reference I had KYB AGX struts with RCE wagon specifics on that WRX.

Im still considering subframe spacer removal to try and fix more of the geometry.....

But, I need to resist the urge to change more stuff on my FXT.
 
I have 24 FSB & 24 RSB before and think they are too stiff. I was going to change to 22 FSB and 22 RSB but end up with 27 FSB and 20 STI RSB. I like the current setup and actually its a lot more comfortable than the previous setup.

I do not want to remove spacer. Its too much work just to get the same as impreza wagon. If you are willing to go lower then there are a lot more option.

The only thing I night add later are roll center adjuster and com c strut top.
 
There are really no consensus since very few have done this mod with spacer.

Its been so long I do not remember the dimension. The insert came with instruction on where to cut. I just lay the insert with the spacer right next to the strut housing and mark the cut 4-5mm above the nubs on the side of the insert. This nubs give the press fit tolerance to the housing.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
Yep that is what I am going to use if I am going to take mine apart again. It seem the flanged one would be better if you could find it.

I would use the one with 1" OD to give better support. The one you list above are too thin.
I would use drill bushing if you could find one for tighter fit but not the hardened one. The hardened one would be to brittle for this.
 
No. Drill bushing are used to guide drill bit. They have much tighter tolerance and harder to reduce wear during drilling. The problem is they might be too hard and brittle. It might be fine for this application since the shock absorber and spring would dampen all the impact anyway.

Regular bushing might be sufficient but I could not find one with correct dimension. All the correct one are drill bushing like below.
 
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