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The Sub kit guy
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13,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As a few of us have been discussing, I'm installing a 8" sub in the 6x9 location. You can click on each picture to see a larger version.

Since I have an Forester X, the location started off with a pocket:



Behind the pocket was foam that I had to cut out. It could possibly be used as a fiberglass mold in the future...



The empty location with measurements-



First I cut out MDF to help fill the spaces.



Next I sealed the entire location using adhesive metal silicone, spray foam and RAAMmat.



Now create a speaker baffle- (Pic from Tre36's Forester)



mounted the baffle with sheetmetal screws and I sealed it up with RAAMmat.



Then I covered the area with Ensolite-



Next I mounted a JL Audio 8w6-



My wife even helped out a bit with a grill. Since the F-X does not have a speaker grill like the FXT we had to make one.

Tan grill cloth and a $2 vent from Home Depot. The grill is much bigger than the opening, but it will mount to the trim piece from behind the upholstery.





All finished!!!



From Tre36s Forester
 

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Official sf.org decal guy
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12,516 Posts
How has your craftmanship held up so far? I am upgrading my headunit and don't think it will be able to use the stock sub, so your mod seems like a neccessity. Any tips you have that weren't listed at the top? Where did you put the amp for the sub? Where did you buy the speaker?

Thanks.
 

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The Sub kit guy
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13,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
toddlamp said:
How has your craftmanship held up so far? I am upgrading my headunit and don't think it will be able to use the stock sub, so your mod seems like a neccessity. Any tips you have that weren't listed at the top? Where did you put the amp for the sub? Where did you buy the speaker?

Thanks.
Everything has held up really well. Nothing has rattled loose, and the sound quality is very good. The output blows away the OEM 6x9 by far. At high volumes you can feel the panel vibrate on the outside of the car, but it doean't make any noise. I'm very happy with the results. If you lived a bit closer I'd gladly give you a hand :)

The best tip I can give is: Seal up the speaker location. Do whatever you can to get an airtight "box" for the subwoofer. I used a lot of spray foam, adn I found the left over RAAMmat I had very handy too. Stuff the area with Fiberfill before you install the speaker and it will also help.

For power I am using a Soundstream P205 5 channel amp to power my entire system. It gives the sub 70w RMS, but I believe it is underrated. Since the sub is giving the amp a 3 ohm load it it probably seeing closer to 100w. The Amp fit nicely under the driver seat, and it can only be seen if you slide the seat all the way forward and look for it.

I bought 3 JL audio 8w6s from a buddy of mine for $150. Originally I used all 3 in down firing box I built for my home theater. (Just wanted to show it off)



With a 300w amp it was incredible loud (wife said too loud), so I built a new box for 2 of the 8's (looks nearly the same) and I put the 3rd one in the Forester.
 

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Official sf.org decal guy
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12,516 Posts
Let me know if you're going to make a box for only one 8". I'll take the left over off your hands.

do you have anymore pictures of your install? That seems like the perfect and most logical mod for me to do with my AVN5435 HU. Can you give me some specific measurements you used for the cabinet? Basically anything and everything you can tell me to walk me through this would be great.
 

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The Sub kit guy
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13,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The other 2 8" are going into the Impreza I just picked up. I love working with 8s because they are easy to stash and don't need much airspace. You should be able to find a high quality 8" for well under $100.

For sealing off the area, I didn't take measurement or anything of the pieces I used. I used cardboard and I made rough templates, then I cut them out of MDF. I spent a lot of time triming the pieces to get them to fit somewhat close, but they were not perfect by any means.

right area that needs to be sealed



MDF piece I used. The screw in it was to help hold it steady as I added screws though the sheetmetal (right side) to the MDF



I only used 2 pieces of MDF, one on the right one on the bottom. The right side piece was secured with sheetmetal screws, spray foam, and metal silicone. The bottom piece was held in place by the speaker baffle. The baffle screwed into the bottom piece. To completely seal the 2 areas I used spray foam and RAAMmat. The left side and top I filled with spray foam, then sealed with RAAMmat. No MDF was used in those areas.

The speaker baffle piece was the toughest because of the odd shape of the area. Again I used cardboard to get the piece somewhat close. After I cut it out of MDF I mounted it on the INSIDE of the sheetmetal and screwed though the metal into the wood. Some people have mounted wood too the outside of the metal, but it doesn't leave much room between the speaker and the trim panel.
 

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The Sub kit guy
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13,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
toddlamp said:
Do you think a 10" would fit in there?
The height and width are plenty big to fit a 10" in there. You could probably even fit a 12". The only issue is with depth. If you mount the baffle on this inside I like did, you end up with just over 5" of depth. You could mount your baffle on the outside and add 3/4" of an inch to the depth, but I'm pretty sure you would have issues with the cone hitting the panel/speaker grill.

If I didn't have a few 8's laying around I probably would have tried to squeeze a Kicker 8" or 10" solobaric L5 in there. I think the square woofer would fit real nice. The 10" is 6" deep, but I think with a little work it could be made to fit. The 8" would fit no problem.
 

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The Sub kit guy
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13,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
toddlamp said:
I have a 10w6 in a box that I was going to try to get to fit. I'll have to check out the specs to see if it'll fit depth wise. I think the mounting depth is just under 5" so I might be good.
The 10w6 is just under 5" deep, so it should fit nicely. It does require a lot more airspace than the 8w6 I used (.625 vs. .375), so you will have to seal off a larger area than I did.

There is a weird vent in the side panel just below the area I sealed up. If you sealed the vent up and extended the "box" all the way down the panel you would probably get all the airspace you need.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/LordKrs/DSCN0031.jpg
 

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Registered
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sea-scooby said:
There is a weird vent in the side panel just below the area I sealed up. If you sealed the vent up and extended the "box" all the way down the panel you would probably get all the airspace you need.
... 'till your airbag blows and the air pressure doesn't have anywhere to go because you sealed its exit.. :)
 

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Premium Member
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2,861 Posts
So sea-scooby, when we planning to put the 8" Kicker into my car? :icon_wink: After applying the Rammat into the doors, the music quality is so much better and I'm wanting to bring up the bass a bit. Nice work with the Foz.
 

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Mr. November 2008
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977 Posts
apanthropy said:
... 'till your airbag blows and the air pressure doesn't have anywhere to go because you sealed its exit.. :)
Luckily there is one each side... so sealing one isn't the end of the world. The one on the exhaust side is the major source of exhaust drone in the car, the little rubber flaps do nothing to stop the noise coming straight in.
 

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The Sub kit guy
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13,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
tre36 said:
So sea-scooby, when we planning to put the 8" Kicker into my car? :icon_wink: After applying the Rammat into the doors, the music quality is so much better and I'm wanting to bring up the bass a bit. Nice work with the Foz.
I think we are going to put your 8" in at the same time we do a 10" in my buddies 01 Forester. I'm not sure if a 10" will work, but there is only one way to find out.

I got all the specs on your 8", so now we just need to find a time to do it.
 
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