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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve searched all over the internet and the forum today without much luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated...

After picking up my 2005 FXT I couldn’t resist and got a good deal a non running 2011 Forester X Premium that had the engine swapped out at last fall. The donor motor came out of a 16 Outback and had 2k miles on it. The previous owner said that they had bought a replacement vehicle while the motor work was being done and that the Forester has just sat since getting it back home. He said that he started it a few times at first to keep the battery up then didn’t touch it for months resulting in a dead battery.

Here’s where I am with it.

- First thing I noticed was the tach was jumping around, some of the lights in the cluster were randomly flashing and it wouldn’t roll over.

- Tapped on the starter while my daughter turned the key and the armature freed up.

- Found the two ground wires under the intake on the motor were loose causing the tach and light craziness... solid now.

- Motor now cranks over but won’t fire.

- Fuel pump runs. Disconnected the fuel line from motor and it sprays out pretty good when you turn the key on.

- Swapped out both camshaft and crankshaft position sensors with no difference.

- Injectors are receiving pulse signal.

- Coil connector only getting 2v on pin 2 with key on. If I disconnect the engine harness connector I get 10v on the same wire (on the car side of the harness). I checked to see if the coil wire on the motor side was shorting to ground and it is not.

- I’m not sold on the battery being good so I’m picking up a new one tomorrow.

Any thoughts on the next steps or direction I should look?


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@Btktwood You said:

- Coil connector only getting 2v on pin 2 with key on. If I disconnect the engine harness connector I get 10v on the same wire (on the car side of the harness). I checked to see if the coil wire on the motor side was shorting to ground and it is not.

Your problem is high resistance in the wire from the connector to the coil. Put your meter on both ends of the wire and check the resistance, it should be very close to zero.
 

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@Btktwood I would check the resistance of the coils in the coilpack - if it were low/shorted it could would drag down that voltage. Npot 100% on the pinout, I'm sure the schematic is out there though. Might be just as easy to swap it with a known good unit if you know anyone else with a similar car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ignition coil voltage - cranks over but won’t fire?

@Btktwood You said:

- Coil connector only getting 2v on pin 2 with key on. If I disconnect the engine harness connector I get 10v on the same wire (on the car side of the harness). I checked to see if the coil wire on the motor side was shorting to ground and it is not.

Your problem is high resistance in the wire from the connector to the coil. Put your meter on both ends of the wire and check the resistance, it should be very close to zero.
I just checked the resistance from the ECU connector to the coil connector of all four coil’s. Showed zero resistance on my fluke for all four wires. Checked the voltage coming out of the ECU for all four coils and I am measuring around 9 V. Just to compare I checked the voltage at the coil on my 2005 XT and it is around 11.5 V. While I was at it I also made sure there was no short between each of the coil wires and anything else in the bundle.


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@Btktwood I would check the resistance of the coils in the coilpack - if it were low/shorted it could would drag down that voltage. Npot 100% on the pinout, I'm sure the schematic is out there though. Might be just as easy to swap it with a known good unit if you know anyone else with a similar car.
Thanks for the reply. The coils are not even in the loop right now. Just taking measurements at the coil connector. And the reply just before this one I updated where I am at in my findings.


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Discussion Starter #6
Problem solved.... for the most part. After a bunch more troubleshooting today and chasing wires I decided to pull the glovebox and trim just below it to check the wire harness for damage. As soon as they were removed I noticed a block of relays and three 15a fuses. Well what do you know.... one of them was blown! Replaced it and the ol girl fired right up. Still not sure why the voltage at the coils is so low but it runs so I’m not going to keep going down that rabbit hole.

Now, I still have codes to fix but I think they are associated with the motor swap from the 16 Outback to the 11 Forester. I believe that I need to swap out the intake and tgv’s for the ones off the old motor. The new tvg’s are a different part number so they must not be talking nice. I’m also getting crankshaft/camshaft codes. I believe it’s because they used the crank sensor and pickup from the new engine instead of old which is a little different. Intake is a little easier to handle... crankshaft sensor is going to be an undertaking because I will have to pull the motor for that.

Thanks for the input.... my original problem is SOLVED!


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I had to.... I hate reading through tons of old threads that they never end up telling what the solutions was.


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