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2004 FXT 5MT
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258 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

I recently replaced my 2004 FXT transmission with a 2006 FXT transmission. The 06 required a new clutch, flywheel, and clutch line as the 06 trans relocates the clutch slave cylinder further away than the 04 trans.

The clutch engagement on the old transmission used to be "high, at the top".
The clutch engagement on the new transmission is now "low, at the bottom".



The problem:

the Hill Holder stays engaged too long with the new "low" friction point on the new clutch and transmission. I'm on a hill, the Hill Holder is engaged, I start to get past my friction point and my clutch is fully engaged but my Hill Holder is still on the brakes.


I'd like to either:
1) adjust the clutch friction point/engagement point to be higher so that the behavior reverts to how it used to be with the Hill Holder disengaging before I hit my friction point
or
2) adjust the Hill Holder to release lower/earlier/before my new "low" friction point

There's a lot going on under the dash by the pedals. I tried adjusting the 12mm nut shown in the picture below but was unable to get access to it. Very tight down there.

Can anyone advise on how to adjust either the clutch engagement point or the hill holder?

Thanks in advance!
 

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2008 Forester XT 5-Speed Manual
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947 Posts
I have done this on mine. Living in a hilly area with a poorly adjusted hill-holder can be pretty frustrating but once properly adjusted it’s a nice feature. The hill holder had an adjustment nut that can be used to make sure the brakes disengage right before your clutch engages. You have to remove the intercooler and then it is on the drivers side beneath the intercooler (pretty deep down IIRC). It looks like item B on the diagram you linked to. I think that post by @bbottomley is probably what I used to figure out the adjustment on mine. It is fiddly and irritating to adjust but great once it is spot on.
 

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2004 FXT 5MT
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258 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Finally got around to adjusting the Hill Holder on the 2004 Forester XT. Dealership wanted $150 for this adjustment. Takes about 5 to 15 minutes if you know what you're doing and took me about 45 minutes my first time finding everything without knowing what I was doing.

Let's get into it:

I have an aftermarket top mount IC that is larger than stock. I chose to go the following route:

Remove two 10mm bolts holding the washer fluid reservoir in place and then move the reservoir out of the way. I left mine hooked up, I just moved it out of my way.



Next, unclamp the fuel filter, remove the clamp, and move the fuel filter out of way. I left mine hooked up, I just moved it out of my way.



For the next part, the best tools I could easily find to perform this job were a 13mm wrench and some pliers. Not pictured was the lubricant/de-ruster spray I used heavily.




Mine was so rusted, I had to spray multiple times with lubricant. I then finaggled the 13mm onto the adjuster nut so it wouldn't turn while I tried to break open the lock nut with the pliers.


Once you're able to get it broken free, spray more lubricant.


That's it. My hill holder was staying active too long, so I loosened my adjuster nut about 5 or 6 rotations before it was where I wanted it. If your situation is the opposite, and your hill holder doesn't hold long enough, you'll want to tighten the adjuster nut a bit.

Hope that helps the next folks doing this.
Cheers!
 

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2018 2.5i Premium CVT
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18,846 Posts
Nice job.

The Hill Holder equivalent is now all electronic.

The concept traces back to Studebaker in the 50s. It was a great capability.
 
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