[chev78]

Ok, I set the camber at -2.5 F and -2.0 R and zero toe last year for auto-x on my stock struts with the swift springs and found it to still understeer in tight corners more than I wanted.

I was running 225/45/17 Dunlop Direzza Z1's. I have H&R camber bolts both front and back/ COBB sways front and back/strut bars front and back/GT spec H and fender braces as well...

So... here is my question: I have switched to 2004 STI struts w/ crucial race springs (quite a nice needed drop in ride height from last year) and before I align it in my garage I want to know your guys opinions on what camber to run to get a bit more rotation in tight corners.

That said, I have to say that the backend would break loose a bit on fast slolams last year, but that may have been due to driving style or the body roll I was getting on the swifts.

I was thinking of trying 2.5 F/1.5R and going from there. Thoughts?

 

[fourortwowheels]

i think 2.5/1.5 will be perfect(in fact thats what ill be dialing in my car to this week), -2.0 in the rear is a little much... try adjust your tire pressures also, i like to run a little more in the rear to help the car rotate! if you have the problem w/ the car being to donkey happy, take some air out of the rears.

try adding some positive caster in the front as well.

 

[chev78]

Thanks for the input... I was running at 40-42 psi front and rear last year. I don't have caster adjustment, so it is what it is... Any other opinions?

 

[funkymonkey1002]

Thanks for the input... I was running at 40-42 psi front and rear last year. I don't have caster adjustment, so it is what it is... Any other opinions?

I'd run much lower pressure. Higher pressure will benefit turn in, but reduce overall grip. Try playing with the front and rear pressure independently.

I don't think anymore than -1 camber in the rear is necessary. I'd probably run -2/-1 F/R. What size sway bars are you using? More bar in the rear will help rotation, or more rear weight bias. More caster in the front will help a bunch too.

At your ride height you might want to think about throwing a BJE on as you're probably past the point where lowering helps (anything lower than stock wrx/sti ride height starts having a negative impact on handling, especially up front as the control arms go past horizontal)

 

[chev78]

I am running COBB sways front and rear. The inner rear tire would lift so bad last year on tight corners (like four inches in the air) on the stiffest rear bar setting, I had to go to the medium setting. If I lowered the pressures from around 40psi the Direzzas do roll over somewhat worse..

Define BJE? I am not following on that one.

I have three opinions so far:

Me: 2.5F/1.5R
Four or two: 2.5F/1.5R
fnkymky: 2.0F/1.0R

Other input?

 

[fourortwowheels]

ball joint extenders.

btw w/ the foz's high center of gravity i find it impossible for the tires to not roll a little bit, despite higher tire pressures. i think stiffer springs or coilovers will help illeviate this, but even on the stiffer springs and dspecs my car does it still, but not as bad as it was.

 

[chev78]

I figured he was referring to some type of bump stop kit... The crucial springs only lower it .49 inch as compared to 04 STI take off springs... Not a big difference in ride height, but quite a nice little change in spring rate which is what I also want.

I don't think I will be going with a bump stop kit just right off the bat. If this thread: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/lowering-your-forester-28442/ has any validity, he notes that a center rim to fender lip measurement of 14 inches or better does not neccesitate a bump stop kit. My center rim to fender lip measurement is dead on 14 inches (I just went out and measured it in my garage)...

 

[preacher]

Some of the guys at last wknds auto-x suggested undoing the rsb..as I was oversteering like mad, and the tail didn't want to stay planted, and was swaying heavily in all the all the slaloms. They also mentioned rear toe...and it shound be a bit more neg. b/c when load bearing acceleration...it naturally evens out to zero and gets better contact as well.

I am -2front/-1.7 & -2.0 rear...swifts /gr2,braced, etc

Here is a slo-mo clip

CSCC Casoc Solo AX Test & Tune 3/27/10

 

[fourortwowheels]

why is your front camber so off? btw id deal in less camber in the rear. also most of the guys who remove rear sways have the spring rates to back it up, unfort w/ the swifts you dont. it didnt look unplanted or too donkey happy in those clips...

 

[preacher]

it is the rear that is off...why I dont know. Lifetime firestone alignment ftl.

It is hard to tell, but I wa sworking very hard to keep it in line....my AT, height & poor brakeing also didn't help with the lines I was taking.

 

[The Rookie]

If you want the rear active you need to reduce camber, -1 as the absolute maxiumum, probably nearer zero (which is what I have)....

If you are lifting the inside rear wheel, then it doesn't matter if its lifted 4" or 0.4" its still off the ground, by keeping the rear ARB stiff you help maintain the rear ride height which keeps the rear roll centre high and thus (due to the inclined roll centre axis) reduces understeer.

Simon

 

[chev78]

I will be doing the alignment tonight. Last chances for the gurus to chime in on toe and camber settings. Remember that I will also be driving this on the raod as well as auto-x. I think I will be happy with -2F,-1R zero toe all around.

 

[neoshi]

I figured he was referring to some type of bump stop kit... The crucial springs only lower it .49 inch as compared to 04 STI take off springs... Not a big difference in ride height, but quite a nice little change in spring rate which is what I also want.

I don't think I will be going with a bump stop kit just right off the bat. If this thread: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/lowering-your-forester-28442/ has any validity, he notes that a center rim to fender lip measurement of 14 inches or better does not neccesitate a bump stop kit. My center rim to fender lip measurement is dead on 14 inches (I just went out and measured it in my garage)...

Has you car settled? My Crucials make me sit @ 13.5"... actually I would be even lower in the rear if I didn't use 3/8" spacers.

 

[fpan]

When I had mine set by Richard @ Tracktive (ex-WRC mechanic), the front was set at -1.3 and the rear at -1.16 - 1.19. It was a totally different car to drive afterwards. It is a heavy car so if you see understeer in tight corners maybe you are a bit over-enthusiastic or you need to play with tyre pressures (reduce them after a few laps if they have overheated)

 

[chev78]

I measure 14 inches in front. I have not measured the back, but I do have 1/2 inch paranoid fab spacers back there. It sits VERY nice with those spacers in place.

 

[neoshi]

Weird. I wonder why we're 0.5" different... I'll see again when I switch to D-Specs.

 

[chev78]

Dunno... do you have the crucial wrx/sti springs? If so, you have the same thing as I do. What top hats are you running, that could account for a differenece in ride height, couldn't it? Mine are stock STI tophats (as far as I can tell)...

Just got done aligning it in my garage. zero toe all round 2.0 F neg camber, 1.2 R neg camber. I will drive it a while, see how I like it and tweak it from here.

 

[neoshi]

yep, crucial only made one kind for wrx and sti. actually there are two revisions (black and blue) and the blue ones are just a tad taller. our tophats are basically the same as sti tophats. so yeah, i don't know what's the difference.

wait nevermind

The black ones are *slightly* taller in the rear but we're talking like 0.1 inches. Other than that, just the powdercoat color is the only difference.

 

[chev78]

I don't know what would be different...

 

[fourortwowheels]

how did the alignment go? i cant wait to get mine done on friday!