Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i got a vf39. and now since cobb released the map i need to put the turbo in. so any help would be great. and how hard is it?
 

·
Premium Member
2004 Forester XT PP
Joined
·
10,114 Posts
foresterxtguy said:
i got a vf39. and now since cobb released the map i need to put the turbo in. so any help would be great. and how hard is it?
I helped with one on my friend's XT. Let's just say...if I can do it, anyone can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
what all has to come off the car to get the turbo in... and do i need anything gaskets ect?
 

·
BLUE WASABI, (#2 Info Provider)
2008 SG Model D
Joined
·
9,051 Posts
Are you running a new TMIC? What other parts do you have going on or have on? Yes, you will need new washers/gaskets. Need more info before I can give input.
 

·
BLUE WASABI, (#2 Info Provider)
2008 SG Model D
Joined
·
9,051 Posts
Since COBB released the VF39 map, we just have to wait for Peaty to install it in his FXT. Then there will be step by step install instructions on scoobymods :D
 

·
I am the KING
looking for SF5
Joined
·
870 Posts
If you can change oil and have common sense with a vf 39 its foolproof
 

·
I am the KING
looking for SF5
Joined
·
870 Posts
indeed I did it 30 min but it could be if you have no idea
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
i can change my oil and all that. for the intercooler i have the big turbo xs intercooler. and the cobb turbo back exhaust. i know i need the two gaskets. the down pipe gasket and the uppipe one. and i belive i can reuse the oil line as far as that its just a few bolts right???
 

·
Recovering Modaholic
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
nuts and bolts, it can get messy with the coolant, oil and all...just take your time!
 

·
Registered
2006 RX8
Joined
·
423 Posts
The long version for those that may be interested

Make sure you have the necessary tools and more importantly, the time. The job is an easy one, and wont take long, but if you are rushed for time or don't have the right tools you are courting disaster! All work is going to be done in the engine compartment so you should consider protecting the fender accordingly to avoid scratches.

The following is my foggy recollection of the removal/installation process. I may be missing some steps so don't blow a cork if you run into some other item that needs to be attended to.

I am going to be doing my Fxt soon, and have been sharpening my mental image of the step-by-step process. This dry-run mentality is a worthwhile exercise that can definitely help prep you and make sure you have all the tools and materials available when you need them. If you want extra confidence take some digital pics of the way the original fittings and equipment look installed. This provides a ready reference to reality.

Plan on removing the TMIC/BOV by:

1) Disconnecting the BOV and EGR lines
2) Loosen/disconnect TMIC to Intake & TMIC to Compressor outlet hoses
3) disconnect bracket bolts etc....
4) Remove and set-off to the side out of harms way

Remove the turbo heat-shield

1) 10 mm bolts ( you can get to thesse much easier with the TMIC off)

Loosen turbo-DP and turbo-UpPipe bolts/nuts

1) 14mm Nut/bolts & Nuts hold the DP to the Turbo (Use Liquid wrench the night before)
2) 14mm Nuts hold the turbo down onto the Uppipe studs (same on the Liquid Wrench)

Clamp-off and remove coolant lines

1) using small needle nose vice grips (x2) with pieces of rubber hose slipped over both "jaws". This makes for a nice pinch-lock without damaging the coolant lines. Remove lines. If you strtegically place small plastic bags under the lines when you remove them you can do this with next to no mess. Keep your coolant cap on or it will siphon back out when you remove the upper hose first. Btw- One of the lines has a silver metallic/paper accordion heat shield around the hose. You will have to push this accordion sleeve back to get on the hose to clamp it if I remember correctly.

Disconnect upper oil feed line / lower oil drain hose

1) Loosen banjo union bolt and remove. Be careful there are copper shim washers that you can easily drop/loose in the process. Knowing they are there is half the battle.
2) Release the turbo oil drain hose by compressing the pinch clamp. Much easier sounding than done. Just remember patience and dexterity are your friends.

Disconnect remaining vacuum lines/ inlet hoses, and remove turbo

1) Loosen clamp on turbo inlet hose
2) Disconnect vacuum lines from wastegate canister and turbo compressor vacuum nipple. Pull hoses back away toward the FBC and tie back to keep out of the way.
3) Pull the turbo up and out of the engine bay
4) Transfer any lines/fitting/etc as required on new turbo

Install is the reverse of deinstall.

A few things to remember:

1) Placing the turbo oil drain hose on the engine side will make it easier to reinstall as you push the oil drain fitting of the turbo into the hose from above. The upper clamp is hard to get to but is also not a major deal because the oil is gravity drain and not under the same pressure as the inlet side.
2) Use an oil syringe to fill the turbo with oil from the top before installing the high pressure oil line / banjo bolt. This helps avoid dry starting the bearings
3) Don't forget the copper shims on the oil inlet line
4) Purge the coolant system once you get it back together to get rid of air bubbles.
5) Be very careful when re-installing the factory turbo inlet hose. Make sure it is fully seated and not on crooked. Watch it as you tighten it as it will have a tendency to walk into a crooked position. This can result in a damaged turbo inlet hose(voice of experience here trust me).
6) Use new gaskets they are cheap insurance
7) Expect to run into issues with coolant line length. I had this issue with a VF23 install on a WRX. I just measured the extra hose length required, drew a picture of the hose bend, and went to auto zone to match it. This might not be an issue with the Fxt, but thought I would mention it anyway.
8) Make sure you have a way to organize the bolts, nuts, washers, shims, etc when you remove the turbo. Nothing worse than not being able to find your parts!


Hope some of this helps!

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
as far as the turbo goes it was pretty simple.... execpt for two problems.. one the hose on the bottom of the turbo. i had a hell of a time getting that on. i could not reach the hose clamps from the top or the bottom of the car. i put it on and used a garden hose clamp on the bottom clamp because i could reach that clamp with a screwdriver. problem solved vf39 now on the car. the second problem was a coolant leak because the clamps from the factory suck. again fixed by a garden hose clamp.


thanks for all your help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
foresterxtguy said:
as far as the turbo goes it was pretty simple.... execpt for two problems.. one the hose on the bottom of the turbo. i had a hell of a time getting that on. i could not reach the hose clamps from the top or the bottom of the car. i put it on and used a garden hose clamp on the bottom clamp because i could reach that clamp with a screwdriver. problem solved vf39 now on the car. the second problem was a coolant leak because the clamps from the factory suck. again fixed by a garden hose clamp.


thanks for all your help
tie something around the clamp to keep it open... when you get the hose in place, cut that something to close the clamp...

;)

Watch out for the oil feed line... it's a PITA... we couldn't get it off without getting a 17mm crowsfoot... and then the bugger didn't want to thread back on... :mad:
 

·
worn out cams
05 FXT
Joined
·
899 Posts
Great thread. This is where I'm at, feel like I've kinda hit a peak w/ the stock turbo. I have uppipe, STI I/C, full exhaust, and Cobb Accessport and am considering a straight VF39 swap since Cobb has the tune for the STI snail now. Thanks N10S, for the detailed instructions.

Please correct me if I'm wrong when I state that the VF39 swap would not need any other upgrades on my FXT with the setup that I am currently running.
 

·
Recovering Modaholic
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
sonny said:
Great thread. This is where I'm at, feel like I've kinda hit a peak w/ the stock turbo. I have uppipe, STI I/C, full exhaust, and Cobb Accessport and am considering a straight VF39 swap since Cobb has the tune for the STI snail now. Thanks N10S, for the detailed instructions.

Please correct me if I'm wrong when I state that the VF39 swap would not need any other upgrades on my FXT with the setup that I am currently running.
all you need is a fuel pump, STi or Walbro 255. I dont think the AP map requires it but its a cheap safety net.
 

·
Mexican Lorider
2004 FXT 5MT
Joined
·
439 Posts
DanzBorin said:
tie something around the clamp to keep it open... when you get the hose in place, cut that something to close the clamp...

;)
Neat trick, I wish I would of thought of it. Stupid me made the reinstall of the drain tube the most difficult part of the whole deal and took (what seemed like) 30 minutes trying to get it back on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
SnowMan said:
Neat trick, I wish I would of thought of it. Stupid me made the reinstall of the drain tube the most difficult part of the whole deal and took (what seemed like) 30 minutes trying to get it back on.
that's the greatest part of these forums...

you can get info and experiences from a wide variety of folks... then put that info together FTW... ;)
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top