Having read the Footwell Illumination thread a long time ago http://www.subaruforester.org/vbull...mination-kit-h201ssc000-09-fxt-wrx-sti-47944/ I wanted to do the same thing but figured I wouldn't be able to use the stock kit in my 2006. Then javaperson posted a thread of how he added to the stock kit with aftermarket LEDs for the rear foorwellshttp://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f85/2009-rear-footwell-lights-9-a-54531/ , and that gave me the inspiration to do the same all around in my car. I got the lights form SuperBrightLEDs Super Bright LEDs - Car Bulbs
All in all it took 4 festoon LEDs and sockets, an inline fuse, switch, 3 vampire taps, wire clips and terminal clips (grounds and battery), and wire. I had wire, the wire clips and vampire taps, so it cost me ~$30 for everything else. I ran all the wire a few days before the lights arrived. The only trim I had to remove was front compartment floor/door trims on both sides and the top of the middle console. I also had to remove the lower dash under the steering wheel to get to and remove the blank switch face. To run the wire under the carpet, I used a stiff metal wire with an electric-taped end as a fish tape that I inserted under the carpet and pushed to where I needed wire to be run, then taped the elec wire to the fish tape and pulled the wire through. I ran wires from one location to the next, and tapped each successive elec wire via vampire taps to the last elec wire. Below is a simplified wiring diagram showing how the wiring was done.
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I had trouble with the original wiring and seascooby helped me out considerably. A ground had to be run from each LED. I removed the top of the center console to run wires from one seat to another, and grounded the seat LEDs to a bolt in that area. I ended up hardwiring straight to the battery so I could also use the lights when the key wasn't in the ignition.
For the switch, I removed a blank face where a switch should be beside my fog light switch and used a dremel to cut and fit the slot for the switch. The switch fit a 1/2" x 3/4" opening, any bigger and I wouldn't have been able to fit the switch as easily because of how the blank face's back (the other end that fits in the dashboard) was made. I purchased an illuminated switch, but the darn thing was so bright that it lit up that whole driver's side area. I didn't like or want this, so I took the switch apart and cut the wire/power to the LED. The switch install looks clean.:biggrin:
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I used wire clips instead of soldering wires to the LED light sockets, and once everything was hooked up I verified that all LEDs worked before mounting them. The LEDs are directional, so when one didn't work I switched the ends around in the socket and it then lit up. Here are a few pics...
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I will probably read this thread later and add to the writeup, so if anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask. All in all, the install wasn't that hard, just time consuming, and the result is everything I hoped it would be.:rock:
All in all it took 4 festoon LEDs and sockets, an inline fuse, switch, 3 vampire taps, wire clips and terminal clips (grounds and battery), and wire. I had wire, the wire clips and vampire taps, so it cost me ~$30 for everything else. I ran all the wire a few days before the lights arrived. The only trim I had to remove was front compartment floor/door trims on both sides and the top of the middle console. I also had to remove the lower dash under the steering wheel to get to and remove the blank switch face. To run the wire under the carpet, I used a stiff metal wire with an electric-taped end as a fish tape that I inserted under the carpet and pushed to where I needed wire to be run, then taped the elec wire to the fish tape and pulled the wire through. I ran wires from one location to the next, and tapped each successive elec wire via vampire taps to the last elec wire. Below is a simplified wiring diagram showing how the wiring was done.
I had trouble with the original wiring and seascooby helped me out considerably. A ground had to be run from each LED. I removed the top of the center console to run wires from one seat to another, and grounded the seat LEDs to a bolt in that area. I ended up hardwiring straight to the battery so I could also use the lights when the key wasn't in the ignition.
For the switch, I removed a blank face where a switch should be beside my fog light switch and used a dremel to cut and fit the slot for the switch. The switch fit a 1/2" x 3/4" opening, any bigger and I wouldn't have been able to fit the switch as easily because of how the blank face's back (the other end that fits in the dashboard) was made. I purchased an illuminated switch, but the darn thing was so bright that it lit up that whole driver's side area. I didn't like or want this, so I took the switch apart and cut the wire/power to the LED. The switch install looks clean.:biggrin:
I used wire clips instead of soldering wires to the LED light sockets, and once everything was hooked up I verified that all LEDs worked before mounting them. The LEDs are directional, so when one didn't work I switched the ends around in the socket and it then lit up. Here are a few pics...
I will probably read this thread later and add to the writeup, so if anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask. All in all, the install wasn't that hard, just time consuming, and the result is everything I hoped it would be.:rock:
