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2006 Forester
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662 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Having read the Footwell Illumination thread a long time ago http://www.subaruforester.org/vbull...mination-kit-h201ssc000-09-fxt-wrx-sti-47944/ I wanted to do the same thing but figured I wouldn't be able to use the stock kit in my 2006. Then javaperson posted a thread of how he added to the stock kit with aftermarket LEDs for the rear foorwellshttp://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f85/2009-rear-footwell-lights-9-a-54531/ , and that gave me the inspiration to do the same all around in my car. I got the lights form SuperBrightLEDs Super Bright LEDs - Car Bulbs

All in all it took 4 festoon LEDs and sockets, an inline fuse, switch, 3 vampire taps, wire clips and terminal clips (grounds and battery), and wire. I had wire, the wire clips and vampire taps, so it cost me ~$30 for everything else. I ran all the wire a few days before the lights arrived. The only trim I had to remove was front compartment floor/door trims on both sides and the top of the middle console. I also had to remove the lower dash under the steering wheel to get to and remove the blank switch face. To run the wire under the carpet, I used a stiff metal wire with an electric-taped end as a fish tape that I inserted under the carpet and pushed to where I needed wire to be run, then taped the elec wire to the fish tape and pulled the wire through. I ran wires from one location to the next, and tapped each successive elec wire via vampire taps to the last elec wire. Below is a simplified wiring diagram showing how the wiring was done.



I had trouble with the original wiring and seascooby helped me out considerably. A ground had to be run from each LED. I removed the top of the center console to run wires from one seat to another, and grounded the seat LEDs to a bolt in that area. I ended up hardwiring straight to the battery so I could also use the lights when the key wasn't in the ignition.

For the switch, I removed a blank face where a switch should be beside my fog light switch and used a dremel to cut and fit the slot for the switch. The switch fit a 1/2" x 3/4" opening, any bigger and I wouldn't have been able to fit the switch as easily because of how the blank face's back (the other end that fits in the dashboard) was made. I purchased an illuminated switch, but the darn thing was so bright that it lit up that whole driver's side area. I didn't like or want this, so I took the switch apart and cut the wire/power to the LED. The switch install looks clean.:biggrin:


I used wire clips instead of soldering wires to the LED light sockets, and once everything was hooked up I verified that all LEDs worked before mounting them. The LEDs are directional, so when one didn't work I switched the ends around in the socket and it then lit up. Here are a few pics...




I will probably read this thread later and add to the writeup, so if anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask. All in all, the install wasn't that hard, just time consuming, and the result is everything I hoped it would be.:rock:
 

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2017 Forester XT Touring
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1,067 Posts
I did something similar. I wired up a few green LEDs (these ones) under the front 2 footwells, to a switch that I put under the dash (in case I ever want to turn them off). I have a third that I wanted to put in the AUX area. My goal was to cut a small rectangle in the top of the AUX/lighter section and put a piece of clear plastic to fill it. Then run the light behind it so when it's open it illuminates down (and presumably when closed it will illuminate a green line in the dash).

I like the footwells. Mine aren't that bright
 

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2009 Forester XT Limited
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1,525 Posts
Nice job.....looks great! I think several here wanted to do this on the SG and earlier models, so it should go far with the gang! I especially like the idea of the toggle switch. When I install the OEM accessory I might put in a toggle to turn them off........gotta see how much light they throw.
 

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Pleiads' biggest leghumper
04's 2 FXT's.
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9,263 Posts
Great job!


joe r
 

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09
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10 Posts
I'd love to see where you mounted the lamps! There seems to be a lot of illumination from these, can you tell us which bulbs you got?

If you had to do it again, would you stick with the blue? or would you go with a white light?
 

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2006 Forester
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662 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I still have yet to mount the lamps permanently. I used black electrical tape and temporarily mounted each light to existing wire looms under each seat and front footwells. I left enough extra wire so I could relocate the bulbs just about anywhere at these locations, but they seem to be good at the locations where they are at now. I loomed each wire set to make it look more professional (so the wires wouldn't be seen), even though the wires can't be seen unless stick your head down there to look at the setup.

I got...
Blue 3910-BA Festoon bulbs, and
42mm FS-42 festoon bulb sockets

The color of the lights is a very deep purple-haze blue. I haven't and I don't plan on using them while driving, they are simply for aesthetics while hanging out in or near the car, and I really like the way they look. I'd still go with blue if I were to do it again, but have entertained the notion of purchasing and trying out other colors since swapping the bulbs would be very easy to do.

To get into the center console, I removed the face around the stick shift which exposed two phillips-head screws, and lifted the center armrest and compartment lid which exposed the other two screws that need to be removed for the top of the center console to lift up. The dash below the steering wheel had to be removed to get to the blank switch face, and there are two phillips-head screws near the bottom that need to be removed, then there are clips that hold the face in place that make it so you need to pull on that dash to get them to dislodge. The lower door trim has two plastic attachment points near the front, one in the footwell that unscrews , and one in the doorjam that you need to pull out the top insert before being able to pull out the inner insert. The lower door trim also has clips, so once the two attachment points are removed you need to pull up with enough force so they come unclipped. They are even easier to re-install.

I ran the power wire from the battery through the firewall via a grommeted opening below the steering wheel shaft in the driver's footwell. I poked a hole in that grommet and ran the wire through it. The inline fuse near the battery is 1A.

The package of the vampire taps shows they are called "Quick Splices", and those babies made tapping each successive power wire to one another very easy. And the bulbs use such little power that you can use speaker wire for the power and ground wires, as javaperson stated in his thread.

The most difficult part of this was cutting and fitting the blank switch face so the switch would fit, I meticulously took my time to get it right. Running the wires was simply time consuming, and I'm glad I did all three phases at different times (cutting for the switch, running wires, final bulb and socket assembly and mounting) as altogether it would take maybe half a day to do the complete install when doing it for the first time. If you knew what you are doing, had everything at hand for the job, and didn't want to mount the switch as I did, it would take maybe a few hours to do this install.

:Banane35:
 

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Administrator
2018 2.5i Premium CVT
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19,058 Posts
"Quick Splices" is Harbor Freight's name for these. I think 3M originated them and calls them Scotchloks. Ordinary people call them Vampire Taps!
 

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1998 Forester "S" lifted. Bog-o-matic
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2,006 Posts
Subscribing to this.

Going to go purple on the wifes pimp mobile :)
 
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