[Celtic Warrior]

I'm a bit lacking on knowledge compared to a lot of people here so I need some help. My engine died last night at 110,000 miles in the car that's been there for me since I was little and still is here in college. My mechanic looked at it and confirmed my suspicions this morning. The car is very solid otherwise so despite being a 1999 I want to help it live again with a new engine. I already found a place that'll do the job but I want to find the engine myself. I'd like to look into a JDM engine, but I'm not 100% sure what is compatible. I wouldn't mind a little more get up and go though. The car is an automatic.

So if anyone can point me in the right direction with what to buy and where from I'd appreciate it. I want to bring back the love of my life from the grave.

Update: I'm not sure if I posted this in the appropriate forum, so I apologize if I didn't

 

[Celtic Warrior]

For Example: I found this JDM EJ20 on eBay that, to me, sounds okay. But again, I'm a bit stupid on the whole topic if I'm honest and could really use any help.

99 03 JDM Subaru Forester WRX SOHC EJ20 2 0L Engine Long Block | eBay

 

[boosted12a]

how deep are your pockets? changing over to a turbo engine with all related sundries is not cheep. if its not done right it will become an unreliable money pit. I would look at doing a manual trans swap, the car will feal zippier with better mpgz.

 

[Celtic Warrior]

Yeah, I'm not necessarily looking for a turbo. For obvious reasons, that'd be cool, but the primary concern is anything that will work and have low miles. The transmission only has about 50-60k on it, so I can't justify a swap to a manual (although that'd also be nice).

 

[flstffxe]

Stay with a EJ25 SOHC. Keep it simple if you want it running reliably and to be able to source parts easily.

'99-'04 will be as close to direct drop in as it gets.

You'll have to verify if you need an engine with a EGR or not(tube attached to the drivers sider head at the back).

verify the crank sprocket and drivers side cam pulley are the same(if not swap them)

Use your intake manifold and wiring harness.

 

[Celtic Warrior]

I just heard from the shop that's willing to do the job and they said that my options are limited since it's a "California car" and only found two engines themselves both around 160k miles priced at $1400 and $1800. That sounds absurd to me so I'm really not sure what to do but they will put in any engine I find.

 

[Celtic Warrior]

2005 Subaru Forester Engine EJ25 EJ253 H4 2 5L Federal Only 40K Miles | eBay here's something else I found, I really don't understand how to know if it's one I can use, sorry for lack of knowledge, but I know my dead engine is an ej253 too

 

[flstffxe]

I just heard from the shop that's willing to do the job and they said that my options are limited since it's a "California car" and only found two engines themselves both around 160k miles priced at $1400 and $1800. That sounds absurd to me so I'm really not sure what to do but they will put in any engine I find.

As I said

Stay with a EJ25 SOHC. Keep it simple if you want it running reliably and to be able to source parts easily.

'99-'04 will be as close to direct drop in as it gets.

You'll have to verify if you need an engine with a EGR or not(tube attached to the drivers sider head at the back).

verify the crank sprocket and drivers side cam pulley are the same(if not swap them)

Use your intake manifold and wiring harness.

You don't need to worry about the emissions side of things regarding it being a CA car. Engine wise no difference as far as dropping it in. The above is stuff you must know.

2005 Subaru Forester Engine EJ25 EJ253 H4 2 5L Federal Only 40K Miles | eBay here's something else I found, I really don't understand how to know if it's one I can use, sorry for lack of knowledge, but I know my dead engine is an ej253 too

'05+ use a different crank sprocket and cam pulley IIRC, they would have to be swapped with your current ones.

 

[Celtic Warrior]

Okay well thanks. The shop seemed to make a big deal of it but I'll see wear they say again.

 

[Celtic Warrior]

It will live again

Just wanted to share, the car will be back up and running by Christmas. Went to a different shop where the guy knew what he was talking about. Gonna be $2600 all said and done. Don't mind putting that into it since it's been like a reliable dog to us over the years and the car was handed down to me a few years back, so I would've paid at least that if I bought the car. New engine is from a 2000 Forester and has about 50k on it. So, that should match the 50k on the transmission well. Happy to say my old Forester WILL LIVE AGAIN. Thanks for the info and help guys. :woohoo:

 

[The Sub]

So...what failed in the engine with 110k mi?

What failed in the first trans with 60k mi? [new one has 50k mi]

How can you be sure new engine has 50k mi?

Point is, how will you prevent "new" engine from blowing up? Are you actually fixing the problem or replacing broken parts?

Just trying to make sure your old reliable remains that way

 

[Celtic Warrior]

So...what failed in the engine with 110k mi?

What failed in the first trans with 60k mi? [new one has 50k mi]

How can you be sure new engine has 50k mi?

Point is, how will you prevent "new" engine from blowing up? Are you actually fixing the problem or replacing broken parts?

Just trying to make sure your old reliable remains that way

Thanks for the concern. The engine did go at only 110k. From what I can gather, a lot of the seals that were bad completely went. I was walked around under the car once at an exhaust shop and saw where it leaked oil, but it always made it to its next oil change so I didn't think it was all that bad. Truth be told, I should've checked it more often than I did, but it was only about maybe 1000mi since last change. Definitely gonna keep up with that from now on on the engine. The old engine had NO oil in it when my mechanic, who' taken care of the car since 2006 or so, looked at. He didn't charge us a cent to get look at it and get it to start but then die right back out with lots of very bad noises. He's a good mechanic and has my family's trust.

As for the new engine, I've actually been dealing with the garage through my mom since I'm at school and the car is back home. I researched the shop before hand and they have good reviews and get good business (has 2 other swaps in line before me). Haven't seen the engine personally, but my mom says she felt confident in it and I am requesting pictures from the shop when it comes in. The price also seemed to match the mileage ($1800). Labor charge was also very fair at only $800.

As for the transmission, something went terribly wrong with the front dif during my freshman year of high school. My mom, the previous owner if you haven't gathered, got screwed by having a bad transmission shop recommended to her and the dif was fixed unsatisfactory. The policy of the shop was to rebuild the dif again and also the transmission since they mess it up. That was about 5 years ago and I believe the car had about 70k on it.

I'll keep you posted if anything isn't as it should be, but again, thank you for the concern.