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Discussion Starter #1
Upgrading endlinks (car has Perrin Sway bar) and one of the 4 bolts that mount the sway brushings broke off at the head leaving at least 2/3 in the hole, could grab it enough with locking pliers, but not enough and just ended up nagling the small piece sticking out the back, and of course as the welded on nut on the back, any way to fix this or I am doomed to 1000's of dollars at a body shop?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure cost haven't go that far yet, but prior experience tells me won't be less than 500, its always way more than it seems
 

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Welding a nut on would be my first choice.

You could try a left handed drilll and lots of penetrating oil.
If that doesn't give you much joy, try a bolt extractor.

This may be obvious but do be careful not to break either bits in that hole. BTDT several times.
Should that happen, a rescue bit will definitely be able to grind that out. I have a set. It is a great tool for situations like this.
Of course, after you grind the broken bit out, you will need to drill and retap.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah the little nub got destroyed and mangled in my lock pliers attempt, and never welded or have the tools.

Assuming if I could find left hand bits, I would have to rent a special drill I see no way that my DeWalt would fit, and what do up do about the welded nut on the back of the bracket?
 

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Assuming if I could find left hand bits, I would have to rent a special drill I see no way that my DeWalt would fit, and what do up do about the welded nut on the back of the bracket?
Oops, just noticed your drill physically doesn't fit - How about this Harbor Fright Drill?
Harbor Freight sells left handed drills. They won't last forever but will do the job. Just chuck them in like you normally would and set the drill in reverse while you're drilling.

Is that nut blind; meaning you can't get to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The nut is welded to the rear of the bracket which is welded to body, I can physically touch it, however it is even tighter area, a small 10mm length of the broken bolt is sticking out, mangled it with locking pliers. Also the bracket has a small recessed channel in which the upper and lower bolt sit, seems would be very difficult to somehow cut them off.
 

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Just remember that if the threads were seized enough to fail the bolt head in shear, you aint gonna get anywhere unless you do something about the threads first; ie, stop mangling the remaining stud with attempts to grip it.

My options on these are to cut a small slit in the bolt end, use an industrial penetrant (think AT fluid and acetone), then heat and try to remove with flathead screwdriver. If that doesn't work, I would stay away from the bolt extractors. Speaking from experience, if one of those dang extractor breaks off in the bolt, it makes it freaking impossible to drill it out because the extractors are very hard steel. I would rather drill out the bolt completely and use a nut on the back side.
 

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The nut is welded to the rear of the bracket which is welded to body, I can physically touch it, however it is even tighter area, a small 10mm length of the broken bolt is sticking out, mangled it with locking pliers. Also the bracket has a small recessed channel in which the upper and lower bolt sit, seems would be very difficult to somehow cut them off.
I had a similar situation in that my Tacoma's skid plate's blind nuts had totally rotted out so got this Rivet Nut tool. It basically let me press blind nuts in, much like one would a rivet. It is really strong and solid.
It takes a fair bit of space to operate so I'm not sure whether that will work for you.

Considering how little space you have, your best option is to find someone with a welder and have him weld a nut onto whatever's left of that snapped off bolt. The heat will do it good and help free it up. Then carefully back it out.

Where are you located? Maybe someone here is nearby that can help you out.
 

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Speaking from experience, if one of those dang extractor breaks off in the bolt, it makes it freaking impossible to drill it out because the extractors are very hard steel. I would rather drill out the bolt completely and use a nut on the back side.
Just FYI in case you ever break a tap or easy out: there's a bit called a Rescue Bit that's actually harder than the tool steel they use for taps. Not an ideal situation but the only way I know to get them things out, if you need them out. Works like a chimp, tho.
 

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2018 Forester XT H-CVT 2019 Legacy 3.6R
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Hey, I had a similar problem with a subframe attachment bolt head that sheared off (1 of 4) on a 1974 BMW 2002 a buddy and I were restoring. After working on it for an entire weekend we finally got it out with a bolt extractor but first we used a product that froze the bolt after we had heated the subframe with a propane torch to expand it. The sound of that bolt cracking free was a cause for celebration - luckily the beer fridge in the garage was full.

I currently have a problem with one of the four swaybar mounting brackets on my SJ FXT but mine is not stuck but turning freely and can't be torqued or removed - it only spins in either direction and the swaybar mounting point nut is also welded on. Not sure how to remove the bolt since an extractor won't work as it is spins freely. I tried turning the bolt while using a c-clamp on the back of the bolt levered off the bushing support bracket and then also tried wedging a chisel between the bushing attachment bracket and the mounting point and that didn't work either.

Any ideas would be helpful and I appreciate being able to piggy-back off erfly7's swaybar thread.

Thanks, Bez
 

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I had a similar situation in that my Tacoma's skid plate's blind nuts had totally rotted out so got this Rivet Nut tool. It basically let me press blind nuts in, much like one would a rivet. It is really strong and solid.
It takes a fair bit of space to operate so I'm not sure whether that will work for you.

Considering how little space you have, your best option is to find someone with a welder and have him weld a nut onto whatever's left of that snapped off bolt. The heat will do it good and help free it up. Then carefully back it out.

Where are you located? Maybe someone here is nearby that can help you out.
X2 :)


Hey, I had a similar problem with a subframe attachment bolt head that sheared off (1 of 4) on a 1974 BMW 2002 a buddy and I were restoring. After working on it for an entire weekend we finally got it out with a bolt extractor but first we used a product that froze the bolt after we had heated the subframe with a propane torch to expand it. The sound of that bolt cracking free was a cause for celebration - luckily the beer fridge in the garage was full.

I currently have a problem with one of the four swaybar mounting brackets on my SJ FXT but mine is not stuck but turning freely and can't be torqued or removed - it only spins in either direction and the swaybar mounting point nut is also welded on. Not sure how to remove the bolt since an extractor won't work as it is spins freely. I tried turning the bolt while using a c-clamp on the back of the bolt levered off the bushing support bracket and then also tried wedging a chisel between the bushing attachment bracket and the mounting point and that didn't work either.

Any ideas would be helpful and I appreciate being able to piggy-back off erfly7's swaybar thread.

Thanks, Bez
Nice fix on your previous rusted bolt!

For your new bolt problem, I'd use an angle grinder to remove the bolt head and the pull the remainder out. Then used a new bolt with washer and nut on the back side.
 

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X2 :)


Natedog - I was going to use that as a last-ditch solution to the problem and hoped that I wouldn't have to cut the bolt head off. But, it looks like I will have to do just that. Thanks.

Nice fix on your previous rusted bolt!

For your new bolt problem, I'd use an angle grinder to remove the bolt head and the pull the remainder out. Then used a new bolt with washer and nut on the back side.
 

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McMaster Carr and SnapOn sell left handed drill bits. Please, DO NOT use an EZ out. The worst tool ever. Regular bolts drill out especially with Cobalt drills.
 
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