First, here's a link to a thread that helps describe my problem: Alternator Positive Lead Melting
I'm updating this with new pics, and I hope some of y'all can help me out with getting me back on the road. Please forgive me if I don't know the name of all the parts. Maybe some of you can help me with that, too.
I've got one of those OBDII dongles that interfaces with software on my cell phone, and it sometimes registers less than 12 volts coming into the dongle when the engine is off but the key is in the "on" position. And it registers about 13 volts when I am driving, according to the live data, which seems a little low to me. But when I measured the voltage from the battery with a multimeter at idle, it registers over 14 volts. All a little strange, to me.
When I examined the wiring, I noticed the red rubber boot over the alternator positive lead connection was hard, cracked and deteriorated, so I ordered a new one.
When I went to remove the old boot, the post broke off when I tried to loosen the 12mm nut that fastens the wire to the post. It snapped right off without a whole lot of force. Also, the two stranded wires that were crimped onto the connector are in bad shape. Black and burned. In fact, they broke free from the connector fairly easily.
The entire housing that bolts into the alternator looked pretty melted, too. I wanted to see if I could remove that housing, but I can't find a socket that fits it. It doesn't seem to be a hex bolt. It seems to be a round bolt with two flat sides, and there is little access to get something on it to loosen it.
I don't think the alternator is bad, but I can't find anyone who sells just that little housing around the post connection.
ALSO, when I removed the wiring harness from the alternator, I noticed that there were only two wires going into a 3-wire harness. Is there something wrong, here, too?
So my questions are:
Is there anyway to replace only the housing around the positive post on the alternator? I can't find a salvage yard within 20-30 miles that even has a Subaru.
If I need to replace the alternator, am I better off getting OEM used or a remanufactured or aftermarket one? However, even if I need to replace the entire alternator, my biggest concern is how to rewire the alternator, given the deterioration of the existing wire.
Can I remove some of the insulation to the point where the wire looks okay and splice something onto it so I can make a new, clean connection?
If I can do that, what would be the best way to make the splice and replace the insulation?
At 220K miles, I'd rather do the work myself instead of taking it somewhere and having a dealer or a service shop replace the entire wiring harness at major expense.
Can I do this, or am I SOL?
I'm updating this with new pics, and I hope some of y'all can help me out with getting me back on the road. Please forgive me if I don't know the name of all the parts. Maybe some of you can help me with that, too.
I've got one of those OBDII dongles that interfaces with software on my cell phone, and it sometimes registers less than 12 volts coming into the dongle when the engine is off but the key is in the "on" position. And it registers about 13 volts when I am driving, according to the live data, which seems a little low to me. But when I measured the voltage from the battery with a multimeter at idle, it registers over 14 volts. All a little strange, to me.
When I examined the wiring, I noticed the red rubber boot over the alternator positive lead connection was hard, cracked and deteriorated, so I ordered a new one.
When I went to remove the old boot, the post broke off when I tried to loosen the 12mm nut that fastens the wire to the post. It snapped right off without a whole lot of force. Also, the two stranded wires that were crimped onto the connector are in bad shape. Black and burned. In fact, they broke free from the connector fairly easily.
The entire housing that bolts into the alternator looked pretty melted, too. I wanted to see if I could remove that housing, but I can't find a socket that fits it. It doesn't seem to be a hex bolt. It seems to be a round bolt with two flat sides, and there is little access to get something on it to loosen it.
I don't think the alternator is bad, but I can't find anyone who sells just that little housing around the post connection.
ALSO, when I removed the wiring harness from the alternator, I noticed that there were only two wires going into a 3-wire harness. Is there something wrong, here, too?
So my questions are:
Is there anyway to replace only the housing around the positive post on the alternator? I can't find a salvage yard within 20-30 miles that even has a Subaru.
If I need to replace the alternator, am I better off getting OEM used or a remanufactured or aftermarket one? However, even if I need to replace the entire alternator, my biggest concern is how to rewire the alternator, given the deterioration of the existing wire.
Can I remove some of the insulation to the point where the wire looks okay and splice something onto it so I can make a new, clean connection?
If I can do that, what would be the best way to make the splice and replace the insulation?
At 220K miles, I'd rather do the work myself instead of taking it somewhere and having a dealer or a service shop replace the entire wiring harness at major expense.
Can I do this, or am I SOL?
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