Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone.
Ive read a bit about piston slap problems on other threads. But I'm still not convinced. The garage where I bought the car sold it to me warm, and then claimed that all Subarus sounds like that... (has been for a year now)

Anyway, I got a very loud knocking noise that follows the RPM. Anything other then a warm summer morning makes it knock really badly (a hard kind of noise). Keeps on knocking for maybe 5-10 min. When its warm it all goes away and it runs fine. It also has some random engine vibrations when idling (not only when cold). Its clearly from the engine, it sings out of tune and the whole car vibrates for a second or two until it falls in line again. Almost like it fails to ignite a cylinder or two at random times. Not very often, but it happens...

I wouldn't care so much expect that its so loud that people turn heads when I drive by. As a Land Rover guy (got 3 of them at the moment) I'm used to old diesels and it just hurts my heart (and ears) every time I hear the Subaru on a cold morning.

Is this really how they are supposed to be? Its a quite low milage car. Nice condition and so on.

Subaru forester 2.0TD XT 2010, 60000 km 3700 miles, Manual, electric start button unfortunately :)

Thanks for any ideas and inputs.
:grin2:
 

·
Registered
2010 Forester 2.5 XPremium 4EAT
Joined
·
863 Posts
Welcome!

Would be a BIG help for you if you filled out your profile more fully - you will probabvly get more bites to your questions.

I take it you're in Australia / the UK? They don't have diesel Foresters in the USA.

Good luck with your query.

I would recoimmend having an oil analysis done.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,365 Posts
^ definitely Europe, even though Subie diesels (& Land Rovers) are sold elsewhere.

G'Day & Welcome aboard @Forester001

Most of the piston slap discussed here is about the petrol fueled engines but from what you are saying your diesel certainly seems to have an issue. My Mitsubishi Triton (L200) sounds like a bucket of bolts when cold but settles down when warm.

As mentioned above:

For the best forum experience, we recommend completing your "Public Profile". Specifically, the "About Me" section (Edit Your Details). This displays every time you make a post on the forum. This will provide information members may need to reply to your forum posts. You can edit this field via the "User Control Panel", aka, "User CP.

If you're using a mobile device, you may need to use a laptop or desktop computer to see all the user tools.
 

·
Registered
2010 Forester 2.5 XPremium 4EAT
Joined
·
863 Posts
I'm thinking more likely Australia as they got the turbo diesel and I'm pretty sure the UK and Europe only got the normally aspirated diesel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ohh, didn't know this was mainly a US forum, But that would explain the petrol focus :)

Its a Swiss car, so Switzerland. And old LR Defender are dime a dozen here...

Anyway its clearly not a Turbo issue. But I stand to be corrected. And Its a Subaru Forester 2.0D XS Limited. Not a 2.0TD. Sorry.. my bad.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,365 Posts
And old LR Defender are dime a dozen here...
and you need 3 to keep one running - correct? I used to have a Range Rover. :grin2:

Forester001 said:
Anyway its clearly not a Turbo issue. But I stand to be corrected. And Its a Subaru Forester 2.0D XS Limited. Not a 2.0TD. Sorry.. my bad.
Everything I've read indicates that it does have a turbo so I am puzzled! Does it have a bonnet vent and is there an intercooler under that vent?

I think they were all specified as 2.0D or EE20 and never "TD". But I've been known to be wrong before - maybe once >:)

Sorry for the questions but just trying to establish that we have the right setup.
 

·
Registered
1999 "L" - 231,000 mi. AT
Joined
·
715 Posts
Anything other then a warm summer morning makes it knock really badly (a hard kind of noise). Keeps on knocking for maybe 5-10 min. When its warm it all goes away and it runs fine.
A work around - while you're figuring it out, let your car idle for 5 min before driving it. I do that with my gasoline powered '99 (*) and even shift from P to N after 4 seconds of running - this rapid shift slows down the cold idle rpm on my car. Then let it idle/warm up at low rpm.

(*) am original owner and have done this since forever, am now at 360,000 km. My car has a cold knock for the first few minutes and this has addressed it fine for as long as I can recall.

Luck
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top