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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, Yall, I am new to the forum. I found yall in a google search regarding engine noises... So here is my problem:

I have a strange metallic grinding, rattling noise in the front of my 2.5L engine. I am thinking it is either one of 2 things. I may need to have the whole timing system replaced (belt, tensioner/pulley, and water pump) Or it may be an issue with one of the belt ran pulleys off the alternator (AC pump froze before I bought it, so AC is not hooked up. She has 230+k miles, Timing was redone at 105K and change, not 178 like I thought. Coolant level is fine, Oil is a little low, but still there, I didn't think to check power steering, She still has all the power in the world, and temp gauge stays at about half way up, maybe a tick higher. I haven't had a chance to go to the mechanic yet (going Monday,) So do yall know what my problem is... I am stumped beyond measure, and I even worried meself nauseous the other night thinking about it.

Thanks,

FS
 

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1998 Forester
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With those numbers i would bet highly on the cogged (Geared) idler pulley, I would get it in to the shop and would recommend you not drive it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK, I see. Of Course, I will let you know what my Mechanic says. Although, I am rather curious, the Subaru Tech I spoke to at the dealership said that anything wrong with the timing system would cause a significant power drain. I noticed this on Thursday night into Friday Morning, drove it home from work (work is 30 miles from home) and she ran fine, with no loss of power, however, I have not driven it since I parked it... Still stumped... Thank you Sackett...
 

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you can have a noisy pulley and not have a power drain, the noise is just warning you. The geared pulley usually needs replacing at the belt change 100K, and if it wasn't changed during the last belt its way overdue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Twinklz, My mechanic was able to narrow it down to the front of the engine, near all the pulleys, but thank you!

Sackett, With the above being said, My mechanic wasn't really helpful in helping me determine WHAT is exactly wrong. Also, I just got off the phone with a rather prudish Subaru Tech at one of the OTHER Subaru dealerships in my area... He took a long shank screwdriver and used it to listen to the timing cover, the alternator, and the power steering. He said the noise seems to travel along the belt system, if that helps... He couldn't be sure until he tore it apart, but unfortunately, both of his techs were at lunch, and he was swamped. He did suggest that I take of the metal belt shroud, take off the belt, and start it up and listen to each part individually... Until I can get it up to the other mechanic I use, I will continue to not drive it... Didn't really have a choice to today, as I had to go to the bank... I did notice its a constant sound. It goes quieter at idle but as you accelerate it gets louder... :mob: Grab your torches and pitchforks... I wanna kill this noise!

FS
 

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A fairly easy thing to do when looking for a noise is to remove all of the accessory belts and see if the noise is still there. If it is not there, then the noise is from a belt driven accessory/pulley/idler/whatever. If it is still there, you have eliminated everything but internal components. As others have said, dont drive it. If a timing belt component fails you will do internal damage to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, my Fozz is down at the dealership... Unfortunately I had to drive it there, but everything is still in one piece, I didn't kill my engine, and It ran when I dropped it off... If they kill it, its on them! :p I had to drive it because I didn't read the fine print when I signed up for AAA... I have to wait 5 days before I can get a tow... Bummer. I did already decide, even if my timing belt components were NOT going, I was getting it done. She's several thousand miles overdue for it, and I may as well do it whilst I have the money to do it... Even though its not a huge bank breaker (Is $449 plus tax a fair amount to replace the timing belt? It includes all the kit for it with the exception of the water pump.) And if its a power steering pump, or an alternator, I can get those cheaper at NAPA as opposed to the dealership anyway...

Thank you all for your help!

A note of Subaru's reliability: Even after sitting for a week, half of it buried under a foot plus of snow, I cleaned it off, dug it out, got right in and she started up like I had just driven her on the way home from work this morning... Best decision I have ever made, buying that Fozz... I want another one... If I can't find a Fozz, perhaps an Outback...
 

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That seems cheap for a complete package. You should replace the water pump and the tensioner and idler gears at the same time you do the timing belt. If you do not, and one of them fails, you will do internal damage to the engine.
 

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That seems cheap for a complete package. You should replace the water pump and the tensioner and idler gears at the same time you do the timing belt. If you do not, and one of them fails, you will do internal damage to the engine.

Agreed. Get a break down of what you're paying for. It sounds like they are only doing some of the parts or that quote doesn't cover labor.


Here's what our in-house(forum) dealer offers (these are below market prices) for an idea:

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f125/forester-timing-belt-kits-76277/

1999-2005 Forester 2.5L SOHC N/A
Timing Belt: 13028AA231 - $69.00
Idlers:
13073AA142 - $57.50 x 1 (smooth)
13085AA080 - $66.00 x 1 (tooth)
13073AA190 - $38.00 x 1 (smooth)
Tensioner: 13033AA042 - $115.00
Crank Seal: 806733030 - $6.59
Cam Seals: 806732150 - $6.15 x 2
Water Pump: 21111AA007 - $76.75 (See fitment guide below.)
Water Pump: 21111AA230 - $112.25 -OR-
Pump Gasket: 21114AA051 - $3.20
Thermostat: 21200AA072 - $16.75
Thermo Gasket: 21236AA010 - $2.65
Oil Pump O-Ring: 10991AA001 - $1.64


1999-2002 Forester all take 21111AA007 pump.
2003-2005 Forester M/T take 21111AA007 pump.
2003-2005 Forester A/T take 21111AA230 pump.


Total Kit Price w/007 WP - $465.38
Total Kit Price w/230 WP - $500.88
Figure another $400-500 for labor depending on the shop rate for 5-6 hours of work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Had a dream that I was gonna get a voicemail saying the blew the engine, and it would cost $10 grand to replace... Well, it wasn't that bad, but just as well, what turned into a $500 job almost turned into a $3000 job... Apparently my head gaskets are weeping badly (bull! Head gaskets were replaced at 150k according to paperwork from P/O) and even if they were, My regular Mechanic can do it for a quarter of that... So, I a rescuing the Fozz from the dealership... As for the noise, Its the alternator bearing. Timing belt stuff is fine for the moment. And my regular Mechanic knows how to do those too... I may pay a bit more, but I won't get raped by the dealership...

More as I know
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Rescued the Fozz from the dealership... They wanted to replace the head gaskets (too weepy) For $2000, The wheel bearing for $300 (had the part already, waiting for my mechanic to put BOTH fronts in for $75) and the Alternator for around $600, for a total of right around $3000... HA! Told them in a very nice way "Go to hell!" And paid $95 for second guessing myself about the alternator... I doubt my head gasket is bad, As I had my mechanic give it good going through after I bought it, And I have only put 10k + miles on it since I have bought it...(when I take it to get the bearings done, I will have my mechanic check the gasket again) and if it needs it, I know a gentleman who works at NAPA who said he will replace both head gasket AND Timing Belt (All Components will cost about $500...) For $300... Now I just have to replace the alternator and the serp. Belt... Alternator was $155 at NAPA... Should have just replaced the Alternator first... Saved a LOT of Headache! Lesson learned today: Don't deal with Dealerships unless ABSOLUTELY Necessary!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Quickly, please folks, need an answer as soon as possible. The Dealership broke my Alternator belt tensioner bolt yesterday, and failed to tell me about it. That said, they are ordering one for me and putting it in a no charge. BUT, I need the car tonight if possible. Going to the hardware store to see if I can find one that will fit, but if I can't, can I use the AC tensioner bolt as a stop gap? Air Con isn't hooked up, as the compressor seized and I haven't gone to the junk yard to get a replacement... Can the Air Con bolt work?

Thanks!
 
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