Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
2008 GRB 20th anniversary 6 MT
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am now back on OEM suspension and can enjoy the car at last! :woohoo:

Thanks to James at Greenwood developments for sorting me out on saturday afternoon despite a very short notice before my trip abroad.

The only 'problem' I have is that I noticed on the rear springs the lower parts of the coils are touching when loaded (seats folded , cargo full and 2 bikes on roof rack) which causes a clunk sometimes when going over uneven road surfaces at slow speeds.

Has any other Forester owner with FSTI suspension noticed this?

I had this in my previous WRX wagon lowered on prodrive springs and although the lower coils of the rear springs had some plastic sleeve to prevent this, the fronts didn't hence I had the noise from the front.

Would this touching cause any problem?

If I am not mistaken XT666 did the same on the Sti pink springs to prevent the noise from happening.

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
2004 Forester Sti 6 MT
Joined
·
723 Posts
Good news Fivos!
How did you get hold of the OEM suspension in the end, someone upgrade or new from japan parts?

Did you get hold of a rear strutt brace? I left mine off after I had to take an old dishwasher to the tip and it really seemed to make a difference, the back end is much less tied down, reminded me of some of the complaints you had with the AST's.

So now that you have driven around with both AST's and OEM, what is the difference from the driving seat?
 

·
Registered
2008 GRB 20th anniversary 6 MT
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi Al!

I will do a write up once I get the chance later but personally I prefer the OEM suspension.

I found a second hand set from a FSTI with the same mileage as mine (~24k) whose owner upgraded to Tein coilovers.

The rear strut brace does indeed make a difference, the rear is stiffer and more like "one-piece" now and there is no creaking when going up in multi-storey car parks. I thought it would be a gimmmick but I was proven wrong.
 

·
Don, King of the parts diagram
MY11 WRX STi Sedan 6MT
Joined
·
5,884 Posts
Hi Al!

The rear strut brace does indeed make a difference, the rear is stiffer and more like "one-piece" now and there is no creaking when going up in multi-storey car parks. I thought it would be a gimmmick but I was proven wrong.

:biggrin::biggrin:
 

·
Registered
2008 GRB 20th anniversary 6 MT
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
OK, I was reading here: http://www.scoobymods.com/jdm-forester-sti-pink-t2666.html?amp;

"When you put the new spring in place it's critical that you have it orientate properly. Failure to do so could result in clunking and damaged suspension bits. The fronts as shown above have holes in the top to show you which way is proper."

I was told that the tophat of the rear left strut was "the wrong way round" and James had to remove it and refit it (which means the spring would have to be removed).

Could the above clunking I have indicate wrong fitment of spring or..?

Is there a way to check the spring is correctly fitted with the suspension in place?

Cheers!
 

·
Mad Englishman.
MY06 Forester STi 6MT
Joined
·
4,157 Posts
Rich, did you find the source of your clunk?
Reading this thread it seems that Longman also had/has(?) a clunk.

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/rattle-clunking-rear-37450/index3.html
Nope nothing conclusive, although I wouldn't describe it as a "clunk" anymore as I've heard what knocking/broken suspension sounds like now, and this isn't it. Mine comes & goes, and is more likely to be the tailgate, or the parcel shelf assembly jumping up and down. But to be honest, it's a Foz not an Audi, so there are so many knock and rattles I've gone deaf to it now.

EDIT: just to say that I know for a fact that it's not caused by damaged Teins cos it's been the same on 2 different sets !
 

·
Registered
99 UK S-turbo
Joined
·
8,566 Posts
I believe the FSTi struts are simlar to the Impreza STi (inverted) so wonder if its the dreaded strut clunk you have (not withstanding NDS's comments on the Teins)

Simon
 

·
Registered
2008 GRB 20th anniversary 6 MT
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Note to myself to remove locking wheel nut and torque wrench nut from cavity in the right hand side of boot. Hitting the 2 together made the exact sound I was hearing. :icon_rolleyes:
So far so good on my way home from work today :)

I had a look and the springs look like they are fitted right. The edge of the spring is aligned with the part of the strut where it changes shape (I will take a pic later as a picture would show better what I am trying to describe)
 

·
Mad Englishman.
MY06 Forester STi 6MT
Joined
·
4,157 Posts
Haha that's brilliant !! My first thought that it was probably the jack in it's foam surround contacting with the metal of the boot :chair:

Glad it looks sorted though.
 

·
Registered
2008 GRB 20th anniversary 6 MT
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Al you have PM.
I don't find the OEM suspension hard or bouncy, quite the opposite actually. The car feels planted and doesn't oscillate as with the previous ASTs (OK, I had a leak in the rear at some point which wouldn't help - front was not too bad).
 

·
Registered
2007 Sti Forester
Joined
·
38 Posts
I dont get any clunking sounds at all.. no issues whatsoever with the springs/dampers even fully loaded - you must be putting in a lot of weight!!

But as mentioned to you on a better forum ;-)... I do find the Sti forester suspension quite hard - certainly more so than standard subaru suspension but I suppose given the car sits so high they needed to do something to give it the excellent stability it seems to have for the ride height and for me its not an issue but if you sit in the back it can be quite a bumpy ride at times depending on the road surface

Having now driven the Nissan GTR which is known for hard suspension - the Forester STI is certainly harder, though I havent driven the GTR yet in race mode
 

·
Registered
07 Sti
Joined
·
146 Posts
The rear strut brace does indeed make a difference, the rear is stiffer and more like "one-piece" now and there is no creaking when going up in multi-storey car parks. I thought it would be a gimmmick but I was proven wrong.
Interesting to hear that - can you recommend the one you used, and how does it look installed / ease of fit?

cheers
Simon (still on OEM suspension with stiffer rear ARB and I enjoy it!)
 

·
Registered
2008 GRB 20th anniversary 6 MT
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Interesting to hear that - can you recommend the one you used, and how does it look installed / ease of fit?

cheers
Simon (still on OEM suspension with stiffer rear ARB and I enjoy it!)
Edit> Here's some pics of it and the trailing link set. Powerstation fitted it, there is a template to cut a small portion of the carpet but once fitted it is very neat and no gaps/missing carpet is visible.







What rear ARB are you using and can you post some pics of the underneath? Have you also upgraded the ARB mounts and if so with what?
Can you give me the part numbers I need for the ARB and mounts?

Cheers :)
 

·
Registered
07 Sti
Joined
·
146 Posts
Cheers for that - it looks quite neat and obviously can be unbolted for large loads. What did it cost?

I fitted a Whiteline 22m adjustable rear ARB as it was recommended by several people, and it really tightened up the handling with no other changes. I'm using the middle of the 3 holes (that's how it adjusts) with standard Sti drop links which are a nice ball joint type. Sorry don't have ARB part no to hand, but Powerstation have them.

The standard ARB mounts broke after a few weeks like everyone said they would, so I swapped to Whiteline beefier mounts, part no KBR18-22
 

·
Registered
2008 GRB 20th anniversary 6 MT
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Cheers for that - it looks quite neat and obviously can be unbolted for large loads. What did it cost?

I fitted a Whiteline 22m adjustable rear ARB as it was recommended by several people, and it really tightened up the handling with no other changes. I'm using the middle of the 3 holes (that's how it adjusts) with standard Sti drop links which are a nice ball joint type. Sorry don't have ARB part no to hand, but Powerstation have them.

The standard ARB mounts broke after a few weeks like everyone said they would, so I swapped to Whiteline beefier mounts, part no KBR18-22
Yes, the good thing about it is that you can unbolt it when you need to load :)
It was something like 200 pounds (almost!) from japanparts! Ouch!
But as you say it looks neat without the need to cut the plastic and can be unbolted quite easily.

The Whiteline ARB is it Forester specific? Can you post a pic of it? karmamechanic had an issue with his touching on the wishbones:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/discovered-what-causing-nasty-clunk-52815/

but I am not sure how he solved it or if you have the same ARB like him.

Can you take a pic of the underneath from an angle, and also straight ahead from the back of the drop link (like this: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l257/BOUKLAKIAS/IMG_0556.jpg) to see whether they droplinks are sitting straight or at an angle.

Do the bushes need regular greasing in order not to clunk?

I had a 'similar' issue at the front of me WRX wagon where the OEM droplinks would sit at an angle after upgrading to a Whiteline ARB and had to replace them with rose jointed one. I then had a clunk which I am not sure whether it was caused by the endlinks or the lower coils of the front springs touching (the rears had a plastic sleeve over them to prevent this but the fronts didn't)

Basically, I will upgrade the ARB if the OEM droplinks sit straight and if there is no clunking or no regular greasing needed on the whitline's polyurethene ones.

I will buy locally hence the question about the part numbers, maybe your invoice shows a part number?

Cheers :)
 

·
Don, King of the parts diagram
MY11 WRX STi Sedan 6MT
Joined
·
5,884 Posts
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top