[Canonshooter]

Getting ready to pull the trigger on a new FSB. Currently running the stock FSB/links with the following suspension mods:

Swift springs
Subtle fender braces (cowl stays)
STi 20mm RSB with KB links
mo_boost support brackets
subframe locking bolts
Whiteline rear strut tower brace
alignment = -1.5 degrees camber all 4 corners

I don't want to go too heavy on the FSB as this is a DD, but with the above mods the need for a heavier FSB has become obvious. I already have a set of KB links to use.

So, would a 22mm bar be a worthy upgrade? Or should I go to a 24?

TIA for your input!

 

[fourortwowheels]

22 should be fine, but id opt for the 24mm... bigger the front bar the better! you should prolly dial out a little less camber in the rear 1.0-.2 also.

 

[Hardrvin]

I'm 95% sure I went w/ a Perrin 22 up front to go w/ my 22 rear. Given you're on a stock STi 20 rear, I'd say a 24 would be overkill and put you back to stock'ish front to rear roll rate balance; which no one likes. Just my thoughts.

I found the 22 a good match and kept the inside rear on mine from lifting.

 

[fourortwowheels]

coming from a handling standpoint a larger front bar is always a good thing. i have 25/22 setup and its perfect, im looking to step up to a 27mm front.. depending on spring rate(not you jim cus your on swifts) some hardcore track/autox guys run no rear bar @ all and a monster front... you need heavy duty spring rates though to pull it off though.

any1 who is serious about handling runs a larger front bar, for a street car though the 22 will be fine...

 

[stan_t]

Do you have concerns going with a 24mm vs. the 22mm? I love my 25mm Whiteline, I have the rear 22mm Cusco set on middle setting.

Stan

 

[Hardrvin]

Amount of bar is different strokes for different folks.

Yes, more spring rate can be good, but the balance is just as important if not more in my opinion.

Could the car be possibly faster around the autox course with a fat front that's mismatched to the rear? Yes, because the extra roll rate may help.

But would the car rotate on command and do as you please, no.

It takes a driver very intimate with the car setup to extract the best time out of the mismatched setup as well.

I'll speculate that running super fat bars is a byproduct of stock class autox rules where you're allowed to upgrade a FSB, but not a RSB or springs. Therefore to get "better" handling, it behooves you to increase roll rate by any possible means, or in this case, your only means which is a monster FSB. And that's where you get companies like Strano making 32mm front bars.

 

[guylr]

With the lower ride height and stiffer spring rates from the Swifts a 22 should be about perfect for a road car.

 

[Canonshooter]

With the lower ride height and stiffer spring rates from the Swifts a 22 should be about perfect for a road car.

This is what I am thinking too. This RalliTEK bar is what I'm leaning towards....

 

[neoshi]

I say get an adjustable 22-24 front (and same for the rear.. but you might like your STI RSB enough.. but you'll be the judge once you add the FSB). I like to have some options in case 22 doesn't feel quite sufficient for your driving style.

 

[Canonshooter]

Thanks to all for your input - I just ordered a 22mm Whiteline.

I actually had this same combo on my '06 WRX (20mm STi RSB with a Whiteline 22mm FSB) and it seemed about right on that car for the way I drove it. One thing is for certain - based on how fast the Whiteline rusted on the WRX, I'll be painting this one before it goes on!

 

[guylr]

Let us know how you like it.

Guy

 

[DanD]

Canonshooter,

My set up is almost identical to yours and I was also thinking about going to a larger FSB in the 22-24 mm range. I will be very interested to hear your assessment after your new FSB is mounted. -- Dan.

 

[Canonshooter]

My set up is almost identical to yours and I was also thinking about going to a larger FSB in the 22-24 mm range. I will be very interested to hear your assessment after your new FSB is mounted. -- Dan.

I installed the Whiteline 22mm FSB and KB links today. Install was straight forward as expected with no unforeseen problems.

Between the heavier bar, polyurethane bushings and Kartboy links, the improvement is immediately noticeable. Turn-in is sharper and the front end feels tighter. It will be another month before I take the winter tires off, but I would say that the 22mm FSB is a good match for the 20mm STi RSB.

Overall, the current suspension and bracing mods feel just right for every day street use. Winter is beginning to wind down here in the northeast and I'm looking forward to getting the Rotas and Advan S4s back on!

Swift Sport Springs
STi 20mm RSB and mounts
Whiteline 22mm FSB
Kartboy Links
mo_boost support brackets
Whiteline subframe locking bolts
Whiteline Quick Release Rear Strut Brace
Subtle fender braces ("cowl stays")
P235/50R-17 Yokohama Advan S4 on Steel Grey Rota Tarmac 2 wheels (3 seasons)
P225/55R-17 Nokian Hakkapeliitta R on factory alloys (winter)
Performance alignment - minus 1.5 degrees camber all four corners, 1/16" toe-in front, zero toe rear

 

[DanD]

That is good to know, Thank you for the update. I will probably opt for the 22mm adjustable FSB. -- Dan

 

[Hardrvin]

I'll be curious to see when you swap over to the summer tires if you notice that the car will inheriently push a smidge soon and it doesn't seem to recover from an understeer condition as easily as before.

I agree, initial turn in is significantly better.

 

[Canonshooter]

I'll be curious to see when you swap over to the summer tires if you notice that the car will inheriently push a smidge soon and it doesn't seem to recover from an understeer condition as easily as before.

I agree, initial turn in is significantly better.

This same bar combo on my WRX with Pink springs, - 1.2 degree camber in the front and -.7 in the rear produced noticeable and easily induced over steer. On Long Island where we didn't get much snow, it was a blast to drive but here in New Hampshire it could get dicey, especially with the Forester which is signficantly more tail-heavy than the Impreza. With the WRX I could get the tail to kick out in a very controllable manner. With all of the weight over the rear, I'm not sure it would be the same with the Forester once it starts losing grip.

FWIW, the WRX would still run circles around my FXT through the twisties - the Forester just has too much weight too high (especially with the monterous moonroof). But for a "SUV" or "wagon" my FXT now does quite well!

 

[Hardrvin]

^ Guy local to me has some WRX take-off's that I'm going to try this summer and see how much of a difference it makes. Unfortunately or fortunately mine does not have the moonroof.

 

[Canonshooter]

Unfortunately or fortunately mine does not have the moonroof.

I would say "fortunately." Along with the weight at the highest point possible on the vehicle, the moon roof adds plenty of rattles and squeaks that drive us crazy. I would ditch mine in a heartbeat if it was practical to do.

 

[beantown]

I feel the same way about the sunroof. Too bad there wasn't a delete mod for it.

 

[fourortwowheels]

i had a rattle but its gone now, i guess the terrible nassau coliseum lot took care of it for me lol! i wouldnt give up the huge sunroof for anything, its one of the major reasons i love the foz.