My son has a 2001 Forester with the 2.5 liter engine, 5 speed manual. Recently, all the gauges, p.windows, signal lights and probably some other things quit working. A short while later, the car quit running, but would start with a jump. All signs pointed to the alternator, so I swapped it out with a new one, tested voltage at the battery with it running and only got 12 volts...gauges still not working. I had the alternator tested, and it tested fine...so then I started looking at fuses. Fuse #5 in the fuse box under the hood (15 amp) was blown. I replaced it, started the car and everything worked, for about 10 sec...then the tach and everything else quit working, but the car would stay running. The fuse blew again, so I put a 20 amp fuse in, and the same thing happened. I used a 25 and a 30 amp and it blew as soon as I turned the key to on. I even tried using wire instead of a fuse and as soon as I turned the key, smoke would wisp up from the wire. On the description for the fuse, all it says is "meter" and "SRS airbag system warning light" I have tried looking at a wiring diagram, and cannot figure out what the "meter" is. By the way, when the gauges and everything was working, I tested the voltage at the battery and got 14.5. When the fuse blows, I get 12 volts again with the car running. What is in that circuit that would keep the alternator from charging the battery?
Forester keeps blowing Fuse #5 under hood
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Looking at the wiring diagram, fuse #5 ties directly to the battery. A blowing fuse indicates more current draw than the circuit was designed for. You need to trace out what that fuse feeds to find what's causing the problem. 
It's unwise & unsafe to increase the size of the fuse, as you can cause additional problems, like melted & shorted wiring that can make finding the orginal cause of the fuse blowing more difficult. :icon_eek:
Bobby...
['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
It's unwise & unsafe to increase the size of the fuse, as you can cause additional problems, like melted & shorted wiring that can make finding the orginal cause of the fuse blowing more difficult. :icon_eek:
Bobby...
['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
Its just strange that the one fuse, which according to the description is SRS and meter? would affect so much. When it's blown, the alternator won't charge the battery and I have no power windows, signal lights, gauges and the like.
You probably already know this, but just in case ...
That's a very good way to start a car fire, quite possibly where you can't get to the wiring with a fire extinguisher.
It sounds like you have a dead short in whatever line that fuse is protecting. Until you find and eliminate the short all other efforts are wasted.
Short circuit
I found your diagram by searching "2001 wiring diagram". Underhood (main box) fuse number 5 feeds the ignition relay. This provides power to multiple circuits when the ignition switch is on. Finding the cause of the short will be difficult, even for a professional.
The meter you referred to is the whole dash indicator pod containing the tach, speedo, etc.
The reason the alternator won't work is that the ignition relay provides a small startup (trigger) current to the alternator.
First look for the obvious; any chewed or corroded wiring. Was anything done to the car recently that could have caused a pinched wire?
I would wire a 2amp (approx.) light bulb with some terminals and plug it in where the fuse blows. As long as there is a short, the light will glow with full voltage. If and when you manage to remove the short, the light will dim.
By checking the diagram and removing each gadget connected to the ignition relay, you may be able to pin down the problem. Good luck!
I found your diagram by searching "2001 wiring diagram". Underhood (main box) fuse number 5 feeds the ignition relay. This provides power to multiple circuits when the ignition switch is on. Finding the cause of the short will be difficult, even for a professional.
The meter you referred to is the whole dash indicator pod containing the tach, speedo, etc.
The reason the alternator won't work is that the ignition relay provides a small startup (trigger) current to the alternator.
First look for the obvious; any chewed or corroded wiring. Was anything done to the car recently that could have caused a pinched wire?
I would wire a 2amp (approx.) light bulb with some terminals and plug it in where the fuse blows. As long as there is a short, the light will glow with full voltage. If and when you manage to remove the short, the light will dim.
By checking the diagram and removing each gadget connected to the ignition relay, you may be able to pin down the problem. Good luck!
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