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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First part was installed yesterday. So far it consists of:
Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X791 - Head Unit
Precision Power PPI 356CS - 6 1/2" component speakers (front)
Infinity Reference 6022i - 6 1/2" coaxial speakers (rear)
MB Quart DSC 480 - 4 channel amp (RMS @ 4 ohms: 80 watts x 4)
Kicker TCVT84 subwoofer/enclosure (200 watts RMS, 4 ohm)

I'm running the front component speakers off of 2 channels of amp and the rear coaxials off of HU. I'm bridging 2 channels (320 watts RMS) to subwoofer under passenger seat. I could not be there when installer was installing so only after shots for most. I'm installing the rear speakers myself. It sounds fantastic and I don't even have rear speakers installed or sub.

Picture of amp, Sirius box, and crossovers. I plan on cleaning up the wiring with cable ties etc.


HU:


Tweeters on door:


USB jack in lower storage bin:


Rear door with panel off:


Infinity Reference 6022i compared to rear factory speaker (front).


Infinity Reference 6022i compared to rear factory speaker (rear). Tiny magnet on that factory speaker...


Rear speaker hole prepared with Dynamat:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone know which is positive and negative with rear doors? I'm running off of factory wires from HU. The right rear door has a green/gray wire and red/white wire. Anyone know which is which? How about the left rear door?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I figured out wires with the 9 volt battery trick. Right rear door green/gray wire is positive and red/white wire is negative. Left rear door white/red is positive and red/black is negative.

My plan was to run the Infinity 6022i speakers for rear fill and power them with my HU. My HU is 22 watts RMS per channel (50 watts peak). While the 6022i speakers sound very nice clearly this is not enough power to make them sound great. There is very little low end. I left one factory speaker in left rear door and one of these in right rear door and compared them. While the 6022i sounded a lot better than the factory speaker the factory speaker did have a lot more low end. I'm going to compare a Kenwood 6 1/2" speaker that I have to the Infinity before I decide.
 

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2017 2.0 FXT-Touring CVT
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Looks good for the most part. I have a KDC-X891 that will be going in place of the stock HU. The amp wiring is a little sloppy.. but I will have pictures of my install in two weeks (I think). You can reciprocate then.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would like to secure amp, crossovers, and the wires. How are people out there doing it with this foam? The only way I can think of is drilling holes all the way through and securing with bolts, washers, and nuts.
 

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Looking good! Only thing I'm not a real fan of are those tweeters on the doors... seem kind of an awkward placement...

On another note... Did those Dynamat's help with the rattling for the door speakers?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Looking good! Only thing I'm not a real fan of are those tweeters on the doors... seem kind of an awkward placement...

On another note... Did those Dynamat's help with the rattling for the door speakers?
I bought the Subaru factory tweeter mounts but unfortunately the tweeters did not fit. This component set came with 5 different mounting options. I could have gone with the flush mount (and still can) but thought that 3 small holes are better than one huge one in case I want to remove system. The flush mount would look a lot better though...My only other option was mounting them lower and closer to mid or on dash. When I did this it looked more awkward.

The Dynamat did help a lot but I plan on deadening more. This component set is very loud and creates significant vibration. I think what boon4376 with the friction clips on doors (with 2 sided tape) is a great idea as well. I plan on doing this with at least the front doors.

edit: AzNFoLife924, where did you mount your tweeters?
 

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double sided tape... friction clips?

What's this noise elimination technique you speak of? I've already removed the retarded baffles and that helped but still i get some buzzing from my front doors. Pretty soon I'll get around to tackling the problem, but I'm curious to know what you're talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What's this noise elimination technique you speak of? I've already removed the retarded baffles and that helped but still i get some buzzing from my front doors. Pretty soon I'll get around to tackling the problem, but I'm curious to know what you're talking about.
boon4376 write-up here:
Subaru Forester Speaker Install | Walkthrough | Guide A 'lil KnowHow

He put double sided tape on the friction clips:"Then there are the friction clips, these damn things rattled like crazy and only stopped when I put my body weight’s worth of pressure against the door. Shove some double sided tape in the holes and slide the clip back into its place and it will have a really quiet and snug fit. Do this to ALL of the clips." He has a picture as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If anyone is considering a component set for their Foz take a look at the Precision Power PPI 356cs set. This set is a steal at $140:
Precision Power PPI 356CS 6-1/2" Component Systems Car Speakers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix
I'm blown away by how good they sound. I have never heard a set that sounds better. They are essentially the same set as the a/d/s 346cs. People over at car audio forum are saying they sound better than the ID ctx65cs set and other higher end sets. They are rated at 60 watts RMS but this is way underrated. I'm running 80 watts RMS to them and I wish I could do more. I'm thinking of bi-amping them (80 to each mid and tweeter). There are people over at the car audio forum putting 150 - 200 watts to them. The mids sound so rich and deep and the tweeters sound fantastic. I'm hearing stuff in music that I don't hear in my home system. Highly recommended!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Infinity 6022i in rear door:


The rear area with amp, crossovers, and Sirius box cleaned up. Everything is screwed down and have cable ties securing cables. I used black 1" drywall screws (coarse thread).


My next project is deadening the front doors some more. I'm going to get rid of baffles and use sticky tape on friction clips.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I completed the rattle/buzzing improvements to front doors. What a difference! I can turn my stereo up as loud as I want to go and get no rattling or buzzing. It sounds fantastic. I plan on installing some Dynamat/Accumat/Raamat door kits as well at some point but it is probably overkill. Taking these steps really eliminates unwanted noise.

Here is close up of mounting tape on friction clip. You can see the square plastic thing behind it. I put 4 pieces of mounting tape under the square thing.


Here is door with baffle:


and without baffle:
 

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So, I am really diging your write-up.

Can you sum up everything you have done so far toreduce rattles/vibration so far???

Great idea with the double stick tape on the plastic clips by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Here are steps I took to dampen sound from doors. Most of the credit goes to boon4376 for these:
1. Use Dynamat speaker kits for speakers. I put the cut out circle behind speaker.
2. Remove baffle in front doors. I found it easier to pry the bead of adhesive up that is holding the sheet of plastic (pry slowly). Do not try to pry plastic sheet off of adhesive. The adhesive and sheet can be put back easily after removing baffle.
3. On front doors put mounting tape or squares between the square plastic piece and door. I did this is 4 spots (picture will follow).
4. Put mounting tape in between door and friction clips. I found this easiest to do if you cover about half the hole before sliding friction clip back in. I also found it easier to do if I tilted the friction clip up a bit to get over the mounting tape.

Picture of white plastic square and with mounting squares:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Success with Kicker TCVT84 sub/enclosure! The first time I tried to fit it under passenger seat it did not work. I turned it around and it worked. If this enclosure was a 1/2 inch bigger on any dimension it would not work. I took out the 4 bolts holding seat to floor and leaned seat back to install.

It sounds amazing for what it is. I'm really blown away that it can produce so much bass from such a small package. It really works in well with my component set as well. The bass is very tight and not sloppy at all. I'm surprised at the thump this sub can produce as well. For $140 this sub/enclosure seams like quite the bargain. This sub is known to need about a 2 week break-in period so I'm looking very forward to it getting even better. I set the gain on amp for the 2 channels I have bridged to run at 200 watts RMS at 80% volume.

Mission accomplished. I wanted to have a very nice sound system in my Foz and take up zero of the storage space in back. I'm pretty much there.

and of course some pictures...

Here is sub/enclosure with the seat still leaned back:


Here is side view with seat down. You can see the terminals:


Here is rear view with seat down. The sub is about and 1 1/2 inches from bottom of seat. I used some cable ties to tie up some of the wires.


Front view with seat down:
 

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Very nice. I see how you had the sub fitted. It does look tight, but then again, so what! How does it sound??? is that enough bass for you???

My subs are going to go down there with some custom built enclosures for them to keep them safe from child/adult feet, random garbage and whatnot.

I know exactly what you mean about not losing any space. I do have to give up those two cubby holes in the bad, but no biggie. I am not sure what else I would use them for anyways.. well, I have used them to holed a one gallon milk jug.
 
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