[mykp]

Before the forums took a dive I had a few problems with fitting a boost guage to my motor.

I supplied some photos to Joth who pointed out that the 97' JDM has a BOV different to a lot of the other foresters out there as most have the BOV stuck to the intercooler. On the 97' JDM the BOV is a plastic item which is located behind the manifold underneath the intercooler and floats freely but is joined via three pipes.

Bear with me, the point is near!

Now one of the pipes to the BOV was not connected on my motor and was floating in the ether and as Joth pointed out this pipe is the return to the BOV and should be connected to a nipple on the top of the BOV. The reason it wasnt was because so arse had broken it off in the past. This would explain why I was only seeing 5psi on my newly installed Boost Guage.

Ripped the BOV out and with the help of a little copper pipe and Araldite the pipe is now connected onto the BOV and what a difference. My boost gauge reads about 16-18psi on full power and the car now shifts like crap of a blanket!

What a difference! Thanks Joth..

mike

 

[Retserof]

Glad to hear that your boost is back, but could you please explain who or what is "Araldite"? Also, did you remove the BOV permanently, or just repair the connections to it?

 

[maXX]

Araldite is a two-part industrial strength adhesive.
Will glue just about anything...fingers and hands included...

 

[Adster01]

Gosh, what a huge difference it would be going from 5 to 16-18psi! You'd be only just holding onto the steering wheel with that sort of boost increase lol :lol:

 

[mykp]

Glad to hear that your boost is back, but could you please explain who or what is "Araldite"? Also, did you remove the BOV permanently, or just repair the connections to it?

No I put the BOV back on the car but with the broken pipe fixed, sorry if I didnt make that clear

As MAxx says Araldite is a two part glue, but it stays maluable for a while before it dries so you can mold it in to a shape. Its great for bonding two different materials together. I'v e used it to fix radiators before now as when it sets hard it sets rock hard.

mike

 

[Joth]

W-w-w-wait a bit now, i'm very glad that i was able to help out, but erm, 16-18 psi is quite far over the other direction, it should be 10psi stock!
Heres the next set of questions, how are the thin pipes arranged on your turbo? There should be a thin black pipe attached to a nipple on the turbos compressor, and this should be attached via a Tee piece to the actuator, which is a can thing with a rod coming out the bottom attached to the turbo, and the other line coming off the tee piece should go over to a bit of electronics mounted on the strut tower, this is the factory boost control solenoid, all of these should be in place, if any of these are disconnected, you will have overboosting which is what i think is happening now.
Let us know

 

[mykp]

Joth,

I think that boost guage is shot to be honest. One of my mates pointed out the same thing today. He recconed its either cos I bought, in his words "A dog poop cheap boost gauge" or the insides are knockered as on his WRX the same gauge showed 20psi.

He did mention it might be something to do with the induction kit I have on my forester but i'd say its cos i'm a cheap b*st*rd and bought cheap parts :lol:

I've been and had a look at all the pipes and there all attached as you described, the length of the pipes wont have any effect will it?

There is also a filter type thingie (Sorry thats the best description) in the pipe which goes to the manifold from the boost solonoid?

mike

 

[Hondaslayer]

So basically Araldite is a two part epoxy glue, correct?

Is Araldite the brand name?

 

[dicknose]

So basically Araldite is a two part epoxy glue, correct?

Is Araldite the brand name?

Common enough that its into general use - like Frisbee or band-aid (or should I add Super Glue)

Must not be in America - seems the Aussies and Poms know about it.

Then again we would never say Q-tip (its a cotton bud)

 

[Hondaslayer]

So basically Araldite is a two part epoxy glue, correct?

Is Araldite the brand name?

Common enough that its into general use - like Frisbee or band-aid (or should I add Super Glue)

Must not be in America - seems the Aussies and Poms know about it.

Then again we would never say Q-tip (its a cotton bud)

O.k.

Looks pretty similar to epoxy

Dries to touch in 5 minutes, fully cured in 24 hrs or so?

 

[Joth]

I think that a good boost gauge will show the 10psi,
when messing about with mine, neither changing the induction setup , or the intercooler Y-pipe, or even modding the downpipe and removing the cat, had any effect on the boost level at all, it was always rock solid on 10psi with that factory boost solenoid.
Yes the funny looking filter thing in the boost line there is normal.

 

[mykp]

So basically Araldite is a two part epoxy glue, correct?

Is Araldite the brand name?

Yep!


Joth

just out of interest how much vacumm does your boost gauge show on tickover, mines at 10 whatevers (Never bothered to look closely at what its measuring :shock: think its in.hg?)

mike

 

[Joth]

Mine shows on cold startup,
-10 on park or neutral, and -12 in drive,
when its heated up and the oil has thickened, it shows -14 in park and neutral and about -17 in drive, these all may vary a little bit depending on the a/c being on or not.

BTW do you get pistop slap when the engine is cold? Mine does :? but its not got any effect on the rings or anything it seems.

 

[mykp]

Joth,

My engine sounds pretty much the same when cold as it does when hot. So if I do get piston slap its very quiet.

Mine is serviced however every 3000ish miles.

mike

 

[SkiBum]

Stock boost on a Foz is 7-8psi.

On a correctly installed gauge, reading in psi, -20 is std vacuum, even for tuned cars, unless you have extra strain on the engine like a/c then it will be about -18.

Top boost for a tuned car anywhere between 15-20. Tek3 tunes are generally 16-17psi. For a mega-tune, 20.

For an MBC install, no more than 12psi is the recommended safe level.

 

[stevem]

BTW do you get pistop slap when the engine is cold? Mine does :? but its not got any effect on the rings or anything it seems.

Lot's of the EJ20 MY97/98 engines are a bit slappy. Don't bother spending the $$ unless it doesn't go away when warmed up. No point.


Steve

 

[Joth]

Yeah i'm not doing anything about it, its gone when warmed up

Skibum you must be generalizing about the UK and australian S-turbo and GT models with the TF035 turbo and 177bhp,
the early JDM S/tb that me and mykp have with the TD04L and 250bhp run 10psi.

 

[SkiBum]

Yer, sorry.

Stock ones 7-8 with TF035

All other comments are re TD04/TD04L.

 

[mykp]

hmmmm! 250bhp

 

[techy101]

For those of us here in North America, that Araldite sounds a lot like J B Weld