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Engine Rebuild

2194 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  CRJDriver10
My 2005 Forester xt is coming up on 180k miles so I think the engine life is coming to an end sooner than later. My knowledge of engine rebuilds are very little to none so please bear with me but I’d appreciate all the help I can get. How did you guys decide to do your rebuild and what were some of the end results?

I thought if I’m going to rebuild, I could go for some bigger power with daily drivability in the IAG Stage 1 EJ25 Subaru short block. It comes with case halves, pistons, connection rods, rod/main bearings, crankshaft & case/main bolts with the option of hardware & seals.
My second idea was being kinda conservative and going with the OEM sti short block. Includes crankshaft, bearings, rods, pistons, and main seals.
Would I need to upgrade my transmission, fuel system or turbo too or am I good with just the new short block?
When the rebuild is done, I do plan on getting a custom dyno tune from a local shop.
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Agree with everything northman says. Adding a few points.

- getting an IAG block is a smart move.
- I have an 18g /8cm turbo that makes great reliable power but requires id1000 injectors, and fuel pump.
- the more power you make the more maintenence required, its not just the tranny you need to worry about.
- do yourself a favor and replace/upgrade uour stock radiator and oil pickup. Both are known to fail and kill engines. Get a killer-b oil pickup and a koyorad (or similar radiator).
- if your car still has the original catted up-pipe: replace that with a non-catted version. The catted uppipe is known to disintegrate and send hot metal into your turbo, destroying it, which can then send chunks of turbo into your shortblock, destroying that.
- if you’re gonna upgrade your turbo you’re probably going to want a turboback exhaust.
- talk to your tuner before you order all the parts for the build. The more familiar the tuner is with everything the better it will all work together once tuned.
- I love the 5mt it is light and has great ratios. That said: i have busted gears twice. If I ever have to service it again I will get a 6mt for the durability: and bemoan the changed ratios and added weight.
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Why rebuild if it is running well? As far as anyone can tell, it might have another 100K in it. Have you done a compression test? If that comes back good leave it alone. Get current on your maintenance, and save your $ for important things, like diapers and preschool.
I tend to agree. Better to save your money and plan for the moment when you DO need replace the motor. Dropping a brand spanking new IAG shortblock into the engine bay and hooking it up to a bunch of aging components wont do much for your ride, and may decrease the longevity of the shiny new shortblock.
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