Things I learned and tools needed to get it done:
14mm hex socket to remove block plugs for piston pins
24mm deep socket to remove oil filter cooler
14mm 12 point socket to remove head bolts
12mm 12 point socket to remove block bolts.
#3 Phillips impact driver to remove piston pin plates in the bellhousing area
22mm 6 point socket to remove crank pulley bolt
The crank pulley and nose may be lightly corroded and prying against the oil pump gently with a pry bar after you spray it with penetrating oil will work.
Removing the A/C isn't necessary (99 Forester,) removing the exhaust is, it will hang up on the motor mounts. The motor has to slide forward about 4 inches if you don't remove the two lower studs, which is ok, I suspect it will line up more easily going back in. The transmission torque strut being removed does allow more room when separating the block and trans. The list in the older Chiltons on removing the motor is mostly accurate and detailed.
Removing the serpentine accessories and intake helps access the bellhousing bolts, you can use a nylon sling wrapped under the heads rather than chains. Don't wrap the transmission lines or headers. If you leave the oil pan on, you will need more lift to get it out over the radiator support, about 9-10 inches. Expect the front of the car to rise up and require more lift, too. Therefore be careful about using a comealong from a beam overhead to get the motor out - it takes up a lot of your vertical space. The motor is about 28 inches high, the front lifts 6-10 inches, etc.
Engine disassembly link: Tearing down an EJXX block with pictures. Head Removal, splitting block - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
Tips and Tricks: Tricks of the "trade" (group effort) - NASIOC
This one is good info about tapping the bushings to remove them from the case, it's a precision fit for the main bearings and the bushings are apparently not on the market to replace those scored up from getting removed with vice grips.
From my aged perspective, living in the Midwest means supplies of used motors and parts are limited. That includes the major chains, my auto parts store doesn't carry reman cranks, and reman motors are double those on ebay. If you have the ability and facility, doing your own rebuild will likely result in you saving another 40 to 60% compared to the economy rebuilds available - you save your labor costs, which helps. With used motors and reman ones on the web at nearly the same price, don't dismiss it out of hand. While the removal and repair isn't an easy job, in comparison to others, it's no worse, and you can actually pick up and carry the separate parts easily. You can't do that with cast iron blocks, cranks, heads, etc.
14mm hex socket to remove block plugs for piston pins
24mm deep socket to remove oil filter cooler
14mm 12 point socket to remove head bolts
12mm 12 point socket to remove block bolts.
#3 Phillips impact driver to remove piston pin plates in the bellhousing area
22mm 6 point socket to remove crank pulley bolt
The crank pulley and nose may be lightly corroded and prying against the oil pump gently with a pry bar after you spray it with penetrating oil will work.
Removing the A/C isn't necessary (99 Forester,) removing the exhaust is, it will hang up on the motor mounts. The motor has to slide forward about 4 inches if you don't remove the two lower studs, which is ok, I suspect it will line up more easily going back in. The transmission torque strut being removed does allow more room when separating the block and trans. The list in the older Chiltons on removing the motor is mostly accurate and detailed.
Removing the serpentine accessories and intake helps access the bellhousing bolts, you can use a nylon sling wrapped under the heads rather than chains. Don't wrap the transmission lines or headers. If you leave the oil pan on, you will need more lift to get it out over the radiator support, about 9-10 inches. Expect the front of the car to rise up and require more lift, too. Therefore be careful about using a comealong from a beam overhead to get the motor out - it takes up a lot of your vertical space. The motor is about 28 inches high, the front lifts 6-10 inches, etc.
Engine disassembly link: Tearing down an EJXX block with pictures. Head Removal, splitting block - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
Tips and Tricks: Tricks of the "trade" (group effort) - NASIOC
This one is good info about tapping the bushings to remove them from the case, it's a precision fit for the main bearings and the bushings are apparently not on the market to replace those scored up from getting removed with vice grips.
From my aged perspective, living in the Midwest means supplies of used motors and parts are limited. That includes the major chains, my auto parts store doesn't carry reman cranks, and reman motors are double those on ebay. If you have the ability and facility, doing your own rebuild will likely result in you saving another 40 to 60% compared to the economy rebuilds available - you save your labor costs, which helps. With used motors and reman ones on the web at nearly the same price, don't dismiss it out of hand. While the removal and repair isn't an easy job, in comparison to others, it's no worse, and you can actually pick up and carry the separate parts easily. You can't do that with cast iron blocks, cranks, heads, etc.