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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there's some really bad issues with the EE20 engine. And when i say really bad, I'm thinking about the crankshaft/block issue.
I live in Sweden, Sweden is a pretty small market for Subaru. But i can find a used Subaru diesel, for sale at anytime, with a broken EE20 engine. That's not a good sign!

From what I've found online, i understand that Subaru made four different engine blocks through the EE20 life span.
And the first engine generation was Euro4 emission approved, then Euro5 and finally Euro6.

So did the EE20 engine ever become a good and reliable engine? Or should the EE20 simply be avoided, cause the engine was more or less a bad choice from the beginning til the end?

I'm a Subaru guy, and I'm really intressted in the EE20. I would like to know everything there's too know about it.
Like when Subaru updated the engine, what did they change? What did Subaru change when they went from Euro4 to Euro5 and so on..

I'm hoping to learn lots of new facts on this forum. So bring it on guys... 馃檪
 

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2015, Subaru Outback, 2.0 D
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20 Posts
Hi, welcome Peter. First, i think Sweden is one of the biggest market for Subaru in Europe. :) I was talking with a lot of dealers in Sweeden when i was searching for my Subaru and found some nice cars, but my biggest problem was language barrier. I have seen a lot of more car for sale than in Belgium, Germany, Holand..is a little smaller than Italy and Spain. Don't know nothing about UK, cause i didn't search anything there.
For history you could read here : List of Subaru engines - Wikipedia .
What i can tell you is that you can avoid any Diesel since 2012, and better to take any over 2015 which is Euro 6. Reported problems are almost 0 about this engine , from what i read on the internet, actually i have seen only 1 reported broken cranckshaft.

Good luck finding your Subaru! If you really like it , this forum is a verry good resource of informations.
 

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2010 Impreza 2.0D, 2017 Outback 2016 2.0D Lineartronic, 2013 Forester 2.0D
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2 Posts
@Peter_E,
I bought a 2010 Impreza with an ee20 from 2010 at beginning of March. I live in Switzerland and in all the months I was looking on used car websites, I saw many high km cars with this engine which could indicate that they have a good lifespan.
My aunt has an ee20 Forester from 2014 currently with 198'000 km and is still in perfect shape.
All the issues that I saw online were about the DPF but I decided to take a chance because in my family we have always owned Subaru and we trust the brand and because I got a great deal. I hope I won't have the issues that you describe.
 

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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@Sorin003,

Sweden might be one of the biggest Subaru markets in Europe, biggest but not big. :)

This past week I've been looking at the 3rd generation Forester. And i would really like a diesel engine. But i don't think i got the balls to buy a MY2012 Forester with EE20.. :(
In Sweden Subaru launched the XV as of MY2013, and i have not seen or heard of any XV with broken EE20..
So i have started to believe that EE20 got reliable in 2013..but that's just a feeling i have.
 

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2013 Forester 2.0 Diesel
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36 Posts
Here in Norway I have always heard that you should avoid Euro 4-cars as these are the most failure-prone. However, I believe 2012 should have Euro 5. I checked a couple of 2012-cars for sale and they are Euro 5 according to the Norwegian DMV.

Apparently, Euro 6-cars are as good as any diesel (or bad, depending on how you look at it...).
 

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2010 Forester Diesel 6MT
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880 Posts
In my opinion:
1) We didn't get the EURO4 diesels here in Oz. Lucky us. Any level of broken crankshafts is unacceptable.
2) The early EURO5s (like my 2010) had issues- but they can be fixed (mostly I think) by experienced, knowledgeable diesel Subaru specialists. Glow plugs fail. Hoses crack/split, causing DPF issues. The A/C compressor tends to self-destruct. The clutch is weak, with an imprecise gear selection. Interior plastics are cheap and hard but durable, whilst the climate control doesn't (or won't).
3) Things rapidly improved after 2011/2012- less, if any, glow plug issues, improved injectors and ECU/injection systems, better pipes and other running improvements to internals and sortware seem to fix most of the issues judjing by the comparative lack of issues on this forum (and others I looked at in the past). I would suggest the latter models are likely to be relatively trouble free so long as properly maintained.
 

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2010 Forester Diesel 6sp Manual
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150 Posts
There is always an option to buy one with engine already fixed/changed.
There is an option to buy broken one really cheap (i have seen 2008 2009 legacys for 1000-1500鈧) and do a swap.
Buy high mileage working one, change engine with low mileage one, sell your old high mileage one as good working one and be almost even.
Possibilities are endless.
Mine is very end of 2010 and 210k km and goes like a tank (knock on wood)
 

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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here in Norway I have always heard that you should avoid Euro 4-cars as these are the most failure-prone. However, I believe 2012 should have Euro 5. I checked a couple of 2012-cars for sale and they are Euro 5 according to the Norwegian DMV.

Apparently, Euro 6-cars are as good as any diesel (or bad, depending on how you look at it...).
I have also checked a couple of Forester MY2012, here in Sweden, all of them were Euro5.

Your post sounds something like this then:
Euro4 - Big No! 鈽
Euro5 - Maybe.. 馃
Euro6 - Yes! 馃榾
 

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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In my opinion:
1) We didn't get the EURO4 diesels here in Oz. Lucky us. Any level of broken crankshafts is unacceptable.
2) The early EURO5s (like my 2010) had issues- but they can be fixed (mostly I think) by experienced, knowledgeable diesel Subaru specialists. Glow plugs fail. Hoses crack/split, causing DPF issues. The A/C compressor tends to self-destruct. The clutch is weak, with an imprecise gear selection. Interior plastics are cheap and hard but durable, whilst the climate control doesn't (or won't).
3) Things rapidly improved after 2011/2012- less, if any, glow plug issues, improved injectors and ECU/injection systems, better pipes and other running improvements to internals and sortware seem to fix most of the issues judjing by the comparative lack of issues on this forum (and others I looked at in the past). I would suggest the latter models are likely to be relatively trouble free so long as properly maintained.
So a Forester MY2012 might be a good choice in your opinion?

I guess someone in this forum know, which OEM number the best Subaru crank and block has?
And when they showed up, in Euro5 or Euro6? Which MY?
 

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2012 SH Manual Diesel
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710 Posts
I have 2012 EE20. I believe it to be Euro5. Has the plastic intake manifold, as opposed to the alloy one, used in the earlier model.

So far, it has been fine. The only issue was a sporadic, rapid injector pulsing on start up. Which has long since gone away, presumably from an ECU update, done during last few Warranty Period services.

I have had no ECU detected, or drive-ability related issues with DPF or EGR. Although, they have naturally filled up with their respective exhaust byproducts.

Cleaning DPF and Intake manifold is relatively simple (so if you鈥檙e happy to work on your car, consider them a minor issue). I haven鈥檛 cleaned, nor inspected the EGR valve itself, as the inlet port from the EGR valve system, into the throttle body/intake manifold, was clear.

Maybe check engine numbers, to see if a particular prefix, codes for Euro 5. E.g. SHN vs SH9 etc..
 

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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have 2012 EE20. I believe it to be Euro5. Has the plastic intake manifold, as opposed to the alloy one, used in the earlier model.

So far, it has been fine. The only issue was a sporadic, rapid injector pulsing on start up. Which has long since gone away, presumably from an ECU update, done during last few Warranty Period services.

I have had no ECU detected, or drive-ability related issues with DPF or EGR. Although, they have naturally filled up with their respective exhaust byproducts.

Cleaning DPF and Intake manifold is relatively simple (so if you鈥檙e happy to work on your car, consider them a minor issue). I haven鈥檛 cleaned, nor inspected the EGR valve itself, as the inlet port from the EGR valve system, into the throttle body/intake manifold, was clear.

Maybe check engine numbers, to see if a particular prefix, codes for Euro 5. E.g. SHN vs SH9 etc..
I consider problems related to EGR and DPF very minor. But problems related to crank/bearings/block is major!

I'm very happy to work on my own cars. I used to work as a car technician/mechanic, but that's in the past. Nowadays i primarily work with my own stuff and sometimes friends and family.
 

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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm trying to compare some Crank and block OEM numbers between different EE20 engines. Using PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World
So i Used VIN: JF1SHNLZ3CG270784.
Found crank: 12200AA480.
BUT i can't find any engineblock, can someone please tell me why?
 

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2010 Forester Diesel 6sp Manual
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150 Posts
I don't know what are you trying to achieve. When I was looking for mine, dealer told me that vin has no relation to engine. He told me that he cant say what Gen engine is in the car just by the vin. What he asked was engine number that is on the block itself where gearbox bolts on, and from that he mentioned below what serial numbers engines should be avoided.
If you are looking for replacement crank/block, as far as I know, everyone who fixes their engines go for complete short block (crank, rods, bearings, pistons)
 

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2010 Subaru Forester 2.0 TD 6MT with Euro 5 Engine
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38 Posts
Engine parts work for me with my vin number on that site.


Tapatalk kullanarak iPhone arac谋l谋臒谋yla g枚nderildi
 

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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't know what are you trying to achieve. When I was looking for mine, dealer told me that vin has no relation to engine. He told me that he cant say what Gen engine is in the car just by the vin. What he asked was engine number that is on the block itself where gearbox bolts on, and from that he mentioned below what serial numbers engines should be avoided.
If you are looking for replacement crank/block, as far as I know, everyone who fixes their engines go for complete short block (crank, rods, bearings, pistons)
I'm just trying to sort out some facts about EE20. Simply cause I'm interested and i will probably buy a EE20 powered Subaru in the future.
I'm talking about cranks and blocks, cause i want to know them all, the good ones and the bad ones, when they hit the market, what fits together and so on..
There's many questions.. 馃檪

VIN has a relation to every part in the car!
 

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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Engine parts work for me with my vin number on that site.


Tapatalk kullanarak iPhone arac谋l谋臒谋yla g枚nderildi
Yes i believe that site is pretty good. I have used it several times, when ordering spare parts for Honda. With success.
When i look at Subaru stuff on the site, it looks like everything displayed, originally come from SubaruFast..
 

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Subaru Outback 2.5 -04
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Can someone with knowledge, please take a look at this.. Do i have the correct info? Something that needs to be added?

CRANKS.
FIRST Crank: 12200AA380 (the weak one).
Second crank: 12200AA381.
THIRD (and final) crank :12200AA480.

SHORT BLOCKS.
FIRST (weakest one): 11010AB071.
SECOND (little stronger): 11010AB72.
THIRD (even better): 11010AB073.
FORTH (final and best): 11010AB074.

I guess it's more to this story, I've just found more blocks 11010AB075, 11010AB076.
So is 11010AB076 the final and preferred one?
 

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2015, Subaru Outback, 2.0 D
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20 Posts
4turbo - independent distributor of Subaru, Lancer EVO and Motorsport parts - these are the most known Subaru parts dealer, known by me in Europe. So maybe ask them , also there is a workshop in Slovacia who repair damage engines and maybe they know more.
But, all for one, is known that when you buy a Subaru Diesel you take the risk :) If you are so " stressed" about this better to buy a gasoline one. And 2nd, it also depends what was the service history, mostly in Sweden i see they service at 30k km , which is not at all proper service interval for any car, and Subaru also. Didn't see also any CVT oil changed at any car who i was verifying there....so i skip them all.
 

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2012 Forester 2.0 X Boxer Diesel
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5 Posts
Hej Peter!

As I understand it from my research, the Euro 4 EE20 had the crank issues and it was strengthened for the Euro 5 version from MY2012. Bought mine a few weeks ago, a 2012 Euro 5 with 23,000 mil. Check Transportstyrelsens Fordonsuppgifter to confirm that the reg number you're looking at is a Euro 5 and it should be ok. Some listed on Blocket as 2012 were MY2011 and Euro 4 according to Transportstyrelsen.

Good luck in your Forester hunt!
 

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2012 Forester 2.0 X Boxer Diesel
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5 Posts
Can someone with knowledge, please take a look at this.. Do i have the correct info? Something that needs to be added?

CRANKS.
FIRST Crank: 12200AA380 (the weak one).
Second crank: 12200AA381.
THIRD (and final) crank :12200AA480.

SHORT BLOCKS.
FIRST (weakest one): 11010AB071.
SECOND (little stronger): 11010AB72.
THIRD (even better): 11010AB073.
FORTH (final and best): 11010AB074.

I guess it's more to this story, I've just found more blocks 11010AB075, 11010AB076.
So is 11010AB076 the final and preferred one?
Using my 2012 Euro 5 VIN on that AutoParts site, it gave me the Crank number ending 480
 
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