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2012 Forester X Premium Auto
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I'm hoping to install my KWC-SW11 myself, but I have some questions about stuff I still don't fully understand.

1) Please look at the attached image. I am supposed to connect this to the battery, and another rubber terminal like this is on the P.CONT wire. Is there some kind of standard wire / plug that I can buy to attach to this? I don't know what it'd be called so I'm having trouble figuring out how I'm supposed to connect everything.

2) For P.CONT, this connects to the ANTENNA plug in my head unit, right? If I already have my amp plugged in there, should I be splicing the connection or is there a better way of doing this?

3) Since I already have an amp connected to my battery, is there anything that should be taken into consideration if I also want to attach this sub? The amp is only 150 watts. Also what would be the ideal plug (?) if there is some standard to convert my rubber terminal thingie to something usable.

4) Just to confirm, for the grounding wire, all I need to do is find some exposed metal from the car's frame and screw onto that, right?

Thanks a bunch! :Banane36:
 

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Administrator
2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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The installation is universal... one size fits all, so you can cut the wire to size & add whatever type connector you want to use.

Your installation will be different, but you can look over my Kenwood KSC-SW10 installation write up here in my Member Journal. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey, thanks. Does that plug actually connect directly into your head unit or do you typically need to modify it in some way? Also are there wires that connect to those plugs that would work better for, say, clamping it to my battery?
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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You have the latest model, we have the Kenwood KSC-SW1 in my son's '03 X & I have the KSC-SW10 in my '07 FSXT. They wire the same, so I'm going to assume the later model will wire the same. :confused:

There should be a double yellow wire from the amp wiring harness/plug. That connects to the wire you're holding. The other end of that wire goes to a fuse, then to the battery + terminal. On our installation manuals, this is shown on page 5. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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2012 2.5X 4EAT
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Not dumb questions at all. These things can be tricky. I just installed one of these myself. I have a brief write-up in my journal here.

1. Yes. that connects to the battery. I cut that connector off and soldered a ring terminal on (see journal pictures).

2. I believe P.CONT stands for Power Continuous. You need to hook it up to a 12V source. I spliced mine to the red wires going to my headunit.

3. I don't think you need to do anything special. See my pictures for the ring terminal I used.

4. Yes, but make sure you sand the paint off so you ground metal to metal. I sanded it down to bare metal then cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol.

Hope that helps! Good luck with the install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey thanks a bunch Schmee. Is there a trick to removing the layer of (thick insulating cloth?) material hiding the firewall?
 

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2012 2.5X 4EAT
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Hey thanks a bunch Schmee. Is there a trick to removing the layer of (thick insulating cloth?) material hiding the firewall?
Mine seemed to have a section already cut out. So when I pushed on it from the engine toward the cabin, the cloth section popped off. I'm not working tomorrow, so I'll try to get a picture for you.

Also, I noticed you soldered the wire back together - I'll need to pick up a soldering iron, do you see anything wrong with this one? Weller 100/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit-8200PKS at The Home Depot

Thanks again!
That I'll leave for the electrical guys. I would say that it might get a few solders done, but if you want to do more soldering in the future and want to do it well, consider investing in a soldering station like a Weller WES51. I'm not a great solderer by any means, but from what I've heard and read, the soldering station gives you much more control and makes your soldering life much easier than using a gun or pen. I've actually never used a gun like that, so maybe someone else can chime in?

Also, I preferred to solder all my connections, but you can just use crimp caps and butt connectors and just crimp the wires together. It doesn't look as pretty, but it will still work fine. This will save you from needing to buy a soldering gun or station. It's up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi again Schmee,

Reviews seem to be very positive for that gun, but if you think crimping it is cool that would save me some money. I just want to do the safest, most permanent solution without breaking the bank. Maybe soldering it is overdoing it -- I don't know too much about electrical -- but I'd like to hear what people think.

So for terminals I'm looking at this - Gardner Bender 100-Piece Terminal Kit-TK-806 at The Home Depot - it says it's temperature rated up to 167 degrees (f) - would that be OK? I can imagine an engine bay gets a lot hotter than that.
 

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Also, I noticed you soldered the wire back together - I'll need to pick up a soldering iron, do you see anything wrong with this one? Weller 100/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit-8200PKS at The Home Depot

Thanks again!
I'm not a fan of soldering guns... have 2, but I can't remember when I last used them. :confused:

Weller is a very good brand. I don't have a soldering station, preferring to have a specific soldering iron for what I'm doing... I have a half dozen. :icon_eek:
  • For circuit board soldering, I prefer a 25 watt iron, changing tips to match the work I'm doing. I use Kester 44 resin core, 60/40 (tin/lead), .040 solder. I find a tin/lead solder works best, compared to the non-lead solder.
  • For miscellaneous wire or terminal soldering, I prefer a 40 watt soldering iron. I use this soldering iron the most, again changing the tip to match the work. A shorter tip when I need maximum heat & a longer tip when I want less heat.
    With this hotter iron, I use Kester 44 resin core solder, 60/40 (tin/lead), in a thicker .062 size.
Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cool, thanks again guys. I ended up buying these wire terminals (they are rated for higher temperatures and are oil, salt water, and gas resistant). Gardner Bender 12 - 10 AWG, #8 - 10 Stud Size Yellow Heat-Shrink Spade Terminals (5-Pack)-AMT-4116 at The Home Depot

If somehow they don't fit, Schmee, where did you get your terminals?

I think I have just about everything I need to get this thing installed (pending the information on moving that insulation layer). Really appreciate it guys! This is my first car mod and it is fun to learn how everything hooks up.
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Keep in mind, those are not solder on terminals, so you'll need a proper insulated terminal crimper tool to use them. In addition, I recommend using ring terminals & not spade terminals, either insulated crimp or solder on.

To be honest, heat under the hood won't be a problem with any terminal you use. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
So I've got it hooked up and working (yay!).

Some questions --

1) I connected the grounding wire to the parking brake bolt. Does this sound OK? I see the bolt going right into the frame.

2) When I reconnect the battery, my car doesn't start right away. If I wait a minute or two after my first try, it seems to start no problem. Is this normal? I also tried starting it up about an hour later and it was fine. And I just tried 3 hours later and it's fine. Eh? I'm rather concerned about this in case it's not normal behavior, so I'd appreciate anyone chiming in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry for bumping my own thread, but could anyone help with my last two questions? Thanks!
 

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2012 2.5X 4EAT
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1. As long as you stripped the paint and have a good metal-to-metal connection with the frame.

2. That sounds a bit odd to me. It went away, though and doesn't happen any more?

Also, did you figure out the deal with the insulation in the firewall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Schmee,

1. I didn't strip the paint but the bolt itself touches raw frame as it screws in. Shouldn't this be enough?

2. It happened consistently whenever I unplugged the battery for an extended period of time. But my car's acted perfectly fine ever since.

In regards to the firewall, I stuck my head under there and realized that the rubber barrier isn't actually behind that fabric at all. So it wasn't a problem (whoops!). Thanks for checking in though!
 

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The not starting right away bit happens to me every time I disconnect the battery from my SG5. Try cranking it a few times and eventually it will fire up with no problems thereafter. It seems to just be a "thing" with some Foresters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey thanks a bunch guys, that brings me a lot of peace of mind.

RE the bolt, I figure the amount of metal connecting the bolt to the frame is thicker than the total gauge of the wire, so it's not like I'm adding more resistance, right? So it should be fine (so says my newbie electrical knowledge). I hope :D

... but maybe I'll sand down a little area anyway to be safe...
 

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Hey thanks a bunch guys, that brings me a lot of peace of mind.

RE the bolt, I figure the amount of metal connecting the bolt to the frame is thicker than the total gauge of the wire, so it's not like I'm adding more resistance, right? So it should be fine (so says my newbie electrical knowledge). I hope :D

... but maybe I'll sand down a little area anyway to be safe...
Always remove the paint underneath either the head of the bolt or the nut, both is best. Don't depend upon the contact between the bolt body and the hole to provide a zero resistance connection. Also, star (toothed) washers under both the head and nut are a good idea.

Poor or insufficient grounds WILL cause problems at some point.
 
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