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2009 2.5X auto
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wrapped up doing a clean of my throttle body and MAF sensor to save a few dollars on maintenance at the shop. Its amazing how much money a shop can charge for simple 10 min maintenance jobs. Im feeling empowered. What else can I do?
 

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2004 Forester XTi 4EAT
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1,430 Posts
Depends how dirty you wanna get,but simple things like plugs,wires,oil (engine/diff) can all be done easily in an afternoon.
 

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2008 XT Sport 5 MT
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213 Posts
Engine Oil/filter, coolant, front and rear diff oils, air filter, brake pads, all easy maintinance that will save you cash and be satisfying. Personally I like doing these things because i like knowing everything was done right, good parts, and bolts torqued properly. And I drink beer in the garage and listen to tunes while I do this stuff.

I'd like how to know how to clean my boost control solenoid. Any takers?
 

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2009 2.5X auto
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
With regards to brake pads how many times can I replace pads before i need new rotors? I'd hate to replace my fronts and then develope that dreaded pedal vibration.
 

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2004 Forester XTi 4EAT
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1,430 Posts
With regards to brake pads how many times can I replace pads before i need new rotors? I'd hate to replace my fronts and then develope that dreaded pedal vibration.
Can't say there is a set number of times you can before needing rotors. Quite a few things may change how frequent you really need to. It's probably different for everyone. I'd take a look at the condition and factor in how long the rotors have been on the car.


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2012 XT Touring 4EAT
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3,751 Posts
With regards to brake pads how many times can I replace pads before i need new rotors? I'd hate to replace my fronts and then develop that dreaded pedal vibration.
It is not as simple as 'how many times'. Most original equipment rotors are designed with enough thickness to go through two or more pad replacements - usually more. Normally, you look at the rotors, feel their surface with your finger, and decide if they're still usable as is. Merely using your brakes won't wear the rotors beyond the point of usefulness, although metallic pads wear the rotors a lot faster than non-metallic/ceramic pads.

If, upon inspection, the rotors are gouged or wearing unevenly, then they need resurfacing. A warped rotor (the vibrating pedal) has to be resurfaced and frequently requires the removal of a lot of material to get it flat - probably the last hurrah for that rotor. And, there's no guarantee that that rotor won't warp again. While a set of rotors may be good for two or more sets of pads, only one or two resurfacings is about all that can be done.

Resurfaced rotors work great - like new - but even worn-smooth-but-not-resurfaced rotors work fine as well, so don't go racing off to the machine shop on a whim.
 

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2012 XT Touring 4EAT
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3,751 Posts
Anything any mechanic can do. It's all simply nuts and bolts, not rocket science. The key is having the information and having the right tools.
+2.

Plus, if you get into the problem but then decide you don't want to do the work, at least you will have a good idea when the shop mechanic if feeding you a B.S. line.
 

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2010 Forester
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11 Posts
At 30k, I just did front and rear diffs, rear brakes, cabin filter and wiper blades. I'll be doing brake fluid in springtime. Each job I got a quote from dealer. I saved 400 on just those jobs, while factoring in tool purchase. Diff fluid is easy change and I was surprised at the amount of metal on the magnets. Put syn fluid in, won't mess with it until 90k

Had to buck up for the trans flush tho, rather not mess w it.
 

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2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
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14,712 Posts
Does anyone have an opinion on the Fumoto oil drain valve?
There are a million posts on this topic. People tend to be opinionated on it for or against. Those that have them love them.
 

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2002 Forester L 5 Speed
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203 Posts
It is not as simple as 'how many times'. Most original equipment rotors are designed with enough thickness to go through two or more pad replacements - usually more. Normally, you look at the rotors, feel their surface with your finger, and decide if they're still usable as is. Merely using your brakes won't wear the rotors beyond the point of usefulness, although metallic pads wear the rotors a lot faster than non-metallic/ceramic pads.

If, upon inspection, the rotors are gouged or wearing unevenly, then they need resurfacing. A warped rotor (the vibrating pedal) has to be resurfaced and frequently requires the removal of a lot of material to get it flat - probably the last hurrah for that rotor. And, there's no guarantee that that rotor won't warp again. While a set of rotors may be good for two or more sets of pads, only one or two resurfacings is about all that can be done.

Resurfaced rotors work great - like new - but even worn-smooth-but-not-resurfaced rotors work fine as well, so don't go racing off to the machine shop on a whim.
It's typically a good idea to resurface rotors whenever you change pads. The pads will bed to the surface more effectively. Also, be sure to measure the thickness with a caliper to make sure there is enough material to keep using the rotors!
 

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2005 Forester XT Auto -> STI
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96 Posts
It's typically a good idea to resurface rotors whenever you change pads. The pads will bed to the surface more effectively. Also, be sure to measure the thickness with a caliper to make sure there is enough material to keep using the rotors!
Well if your rotors are not warped and dont pulsate your just cutting away material on a wearable part. just like cutting part of your new pads away. New pads will seat fine to non turned rotorsl. The only time i turn rotors is if they are warped. you could be cutting away 20k miles of rotor life that you dont need to.
 
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