Just wrapped up doing a clean of my throttle body and MAF sensor to save a few dollars on maintenance at the shop. Its amazing how much money a shop can charge for simple 10 min maintenance jobs. Im feeling empowered. What else can I do?
DIY maintenance???
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Engine Oil/filter, coolant, front and rear diff oils, air filter, brake pads, all easy maintinance that will save you cash and be satisfying. Personally I like doing these things because i like knowing everything was done right, good parts, and bolts torqued properly. And I drink beer in the garage and listen to tunes while I do this stuff.
I'd like how to know how to clean my boost control solenoid. Any takers?
I'd like how to know how to clean my boost control solenoid. Any takers?
Can't say there is a set number of times you can before needing rotors. Quite a few things may change how frequent you really need to. It's probably different for everyone. I'd take a look at the condition and factor in how long the rotors have been on the car.
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It is not as simple as 'how many times'. Most original equipment rotors are designed with enough thickness to go through two or more pad replacements - usually more. Normally, you look at the rotors, feel their surface with your finger, and decide if they're still usable as is. Merely using your brakes won't wear the rotors beyond the point of usefulness, although metallic pads wear the rotors a lot faster than non-metallic/ceramic pads.
If, upon inspection, the rotors are gouged or wearing unevenly, then they need resurfacing. A warped rotor (the vibrating pedal) has to be resurfaced and frequently requires the removal of a lot of material to get it flat - probably the last hurrah for that rotor. And, there's no guarantee that that rotor won't warp again. While a set of rotors may be good for two or more sets of pads, only one or two resurfacings is about all that can be done.
Resurfaced rotors work great - like new - but even worn-smooth-but-not-resurfaced rotors work fine as well, so don't go racing off to the machine shop on a whim.
Anything any mechanic can do. It's all simply nuts and bolts, not rocket science. The key is having the information and having the right tools.
+2.
Plus, if you get into the problem but then decide you don't want to do the work, at least you will have a good idea when the shop mechanic if feeding you a B.S. line.
At 30k, I just did front and rear diffs, rear brakes, cabin filter and wiper blades. I'll be doing brake fluid in springtime. Each job I got a quote from dealer. I saved 400 on just those jobs, while factoring in tool purchase. Diff fluid is easy change and I was surprised at the amount of metal on the magnets. Put syn fluid in, won't mess with it until 90k
Had to buck up for the trans flush tho, rather not mess w it.
Had to buck up for the trans flush tho, rather not mess w it.
Ah yes, that's the other bonus: TOOLS! And you still end up saving heaps 
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Buy ALL the tools!Ah yes, that's the other bonus: TOOLS! And you still end up saving heaps
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I suffer from that problem....
Does anyone have an opinion on the Fumoto oil drain valve?
There are a million posts on this topic. People tend to be opinionated on it for or against. Those that have them love them.
It's typically a good idea to resurface rotors whenever you change pads. The pads will bed to the surface more effectively. Also, be sure to measure the thickness with a caliper to make sure there is enough material to keep using the rotors!
Well if your rotors are not warped and dont pulsate your just cutting away material on a wearable part. just like cutting part of your new pads away. New pads will seat fine to non turned rotorsl. The only time i turn rotors is if they are warped. you could be cutting away 20k miles of rotor life that you dont need to.
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