Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys and gals,
doing the 30K maintenance on a 2006 forester non-turbo. Looks like the front diff nut is a star bit and the rear nuts are square. For the rear I was trying to use a 3/4" square bit with a ratchet wrench it was fairly loose fitting and neither of the two would budge. Looks like maybe some kind of thread lock might have been used. To bad Subaru did not use the same type that are on the oil pan and trani pan.

Question is any ideas on how to loosen stubborn nuts and anyone know the correct type and size of buts I should be using on the ratchet?

Also, any other maintenance to be done above and beyond what the chilton or hayes manuals say to do?

thank you and have a great day.

Craig
 

·
Registered
2008 Sports 2.5x
Joined
·
335 Posts
Hey guys and gals,

Question is any ideas on how to loosen stubborn nuts and anyone know the correct type and size of buts I should be using on the ratchet?

thank you and have a great day.

Craig
I use a short length of pipe that slips over the breakdown bar to give me more leverage. Works fine. I don't use a ratchet, just the break down bar and jack the car up high enough to break it loose. Jack stands of course.
 

·
Premium Member
2015 Highlander AWD XLE 6AT
Joined
·
4,255 Posts
Don't forget to loosen the rear diff's fill plug before you remove the drain plug. :icon_wink:

These "old" instructions might also be useful.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer
 

·
Premium Member
2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
Joined
·
14,377 Posts
You need to put the rear on a ramp so you can get better leverage. Use a 18" breaker bar. the 1/2 male square will work but better is a 13mm. The T70 Torx is available at autozone or online.
 

·
Registered
2015 Forester X 6MT 6-Gear Manual
Joined
·
1,373 Posts
I like tapping a short breaker with a hammer instead of wailing on it with torque - tends to loosen things w/o rounding the plug head. With the scorrect sealant the plugs dont have to be "super-tight" , IDK what subaru drain plug torque spec is ....
 

·
Premium Member
2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
Joined
·
14,377 Posts
32.5 ft-lbs on the front (no sealant required. The copper gasket is reusable (by me))
36 ft lbson the rear (I only went 30. no sealant required (IMHO)) I have done it 3 times now ..no leaks.
 

·
Registered
2012 Forester X 5 MT
Joined
·
881 Posts
I was able to use a standard 1/2" Sears ratchet by tapping it with a rubber mallet. I found that a breaker bar didn't have enough position options. Didn't have to raise the car up - there was enough room to crawl under. Top plug first please.

Other folks have had more stubborn rear diff. plugs.

Be reasonable when replacing the plugs - firm but not crazy.
 

·
Registered
2012 XT Touring 4EAT
Joined
·
3,751 Posts
I was able to use a standard 1/2" Sears ratchet by tapping it with a rubber mallet. I found that a breaker bar didn't have enough position options. Didn't have to raise the car up - there was enough room to crawl under. Top plug first please. Other folks have had more stubborn rear diff. plugs.
The advantage of raising the car is that you have more room - which room you can use to put a floor jack under the business end of the breaker bar. It's crude, but effective. Adding a cheater to the handle doesn't hurt a bit, either. Both of my rear plugs with he** to get out.

But for that, there's enough space to get under the vehicle while it's on the ground.
 

·
Premium Member
2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
Joined
·
14,377 Posts
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top