[kiev88cm]

Okay, here goes....I have a 2007 Forester automatic, stock electronics.( I do have a plate type trans cooler)...a year ago the battery died and I replaced it with a Wal-Mart Everstart Maxx 34N with 800ca/600 ( more cold crank amps and reserve than stock).
Last weekend I went away with someone and my car sat in driveway for 5 days and I had to use a jumpstart battery to get started. Then I drove at least for extended 2-4 hour periods until a day or so ago and it sat a day and had to be jumped again. So I went out and bought a Schumacher Speed Charger ( SCC-1500A) microprocessor controlled charger. The battery registered 10% charge when I hooked it up and charged ( automatic charger senses completion then lowers voltage rate ) about 3 hours and it registered as fully charged.
Today I had an appointment at 1:30 so I checked the battery and it was 30% this morning so back on the charger and the jumpstart battery in the back just in case. The battery was fully charged when I set out, and about 5 minutes into the ride the temp ( yes temperature gauge ) starts climbing and gets to max.( it was 85 degrees out ) I turned on the heater to draw away some heat and the gauge goes down to normal in less than a minute. So, I figure it’s an electrical glitch as the car was running fine Oil changed ( by me two weeks ago )but the water level in the overflow tank was about a quart down from the MAX line. Made the appointment and drove home in stop and go traffic and the temp gauge did the same thing ( climb to max then returned to normal ).
When I got home I let it idle and temp seemed fine, I let it cool off added a quart of distilled water to the overflow and ran at idle...gauge stayed in the normal mark and didn’t move....... Battery reads 30% although it would start the car...... I have the battery charging at 2 amps.
Of course I can't find my multimeter..... but my question is parasitic drain ? Short ? ( if so it happened while it was motionless ) dead battery ?...bad alternator? regulator?..... I plan on taking it to AutoZone in the morning and having them test battery and alternator, but would one quart cause the overheating problem ?

 

[bellatech]

Ouch. Alternator would be my first guess.

Either that or you got a gremlin messin around in there.

 

[kiev88cm]

Thanks Bellatech,
I'm calmer now the battery is on slow 2amp conditioning charge at 91% complete. I'm thinking maybe the tep sensor was off becuase it was a quart low, maybe even a bad ground somewhere. I will take it to AutoZone in the morning , see how the battery tests and alt. and take it for a cautious drive to see if the guage climbs. Then I'll report back.
It was just that " my car ran fine.....I parked for a week..... now the battery wont hold a charge and the temp is outta control. I did'nt do anything.

 

[bellatech]

Would seriously like to know. Maybe you needed that quart and maybe a solenoid and/or thermostat is acting screwy from your voltage problems.

Anyway, aside from the battery not being hooked up right, if the thing is new, it should be holding a charge, not completely draining, which makes me think that the alternator is the culprit.

Let us know, and good luck.

 

[FPT_RAIDER]

as bellatech said, low voltage can mess with everything, so get the charging system/batt fixed

 

[westwind999]

+1 - low voltage from a failed alternator can cause all sorts of issues.

Sometimes a dead battery causes the alternator to fail trying to operate all the running components as well as charging the flat battery. If possible you should charge a flat battery with a charger instead of boosting it. The coolant loss could be something separate.

 

[kiev88cm]

Okay, so I get up this morning and go out to check the car (the night before I checked the fluids oil, water)....key fob button unlocks the door and I pop the hood. Then I put the charger/tester on the battery (car not started yet) and it reads 60%....I start the car with tester connected and within 1 1/2 minutes the battery reads fully charged. Next, I drive the car about three miles to AutoZone and they test the battery (car off) and the alternator/battery (car running).....they say everything looks fine.
I now leave AutoZone thinking the 2 amp trickle charge conditioned the battery, and that the quart low coolant level in the reservoir was the culprit, so I set out to drive Highway? Stop and Go traffic for 12 miles. The temperature gauge maybe moved an 1/8" in 10 miles of varying speeds and the outside air temp is 82. Then 2 miles from home the gauge goes up to 3/4 and I bring it home and pop the hood and let it idle till temp returns to normal ( which is about 1/3 up gauge) While the car was idling and I waited for the temp to come down ( about 3 minutes ) I looked and listened for anything errant.... electric fans were running, no burping in the reservoir, no rough idle like overheating just the "normal" Subaru clicks.
I’ve had the car since 2007, and I’ve never noticed the gauge move above the 1/3 mark after it warmed up. I’m stumped.

 

[bellatech]

Me too. Sounds like you still have battery issues though. Didn't you have full charge on the batt last night? Voltage needs to be resolved.

You're getting weird fluctuations on temp...you may need to a step by step to isolate your problem (thermostat?). You added that quart of water...maybe (to be on safe side) flush your coolant and add correct mixture of coolant/water.

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f113/trouble-free-coolant-antifreeze-change-procedure-55951/

Not that it will totally resolve your issue, but Subaru says this about coolant- "Subaru radiator coolant is a phosphate, non-anime kind made for aluminum radiators and engines and is the only type that should be used."

Once that's straight, check your temp gauge. Fluctuations? Seriously, maybe the thermostat is on the fritz now.

 

[kiev88cm]

Thanks Bellatech.....I need to buys some Subaru antifreeze and cooland conditioner.... I will get back.

 

[TexasForester]

Your battery charge problem may be a current drain. Check amperage w/ everything off. You will need at least 5 amp capacity VOM. Rig VOM in series w/ negative battery cable and negative battery post (alarm will go off when you reconnect, PIA!). Observe amps. I think draw should be < 50mA. If several hundred mA or several A, you have something ON pulling excessive current.

Locate the drain by sequentially pulling fuses, observing amp draw, and reinstalling fuse if no change. When amp draw disappears you've found the fuse to the problem circuit. Then you can start disconnecting components from that circuit (wiring diagrams needed) and looking for shorts in wiring (unlikely as they usually cause fuse to blow). Usual culprit is a small light somewhere; glove box for instance that can't be readily observed.

Overheating may be sticking thermostat. A coioling system leak check may be in order to rule out small leak allowing loss of coolant.

good luck

 

[kiev88cm]

Thanks guys,
I ran errands all day but on the short trip to the local dealership about 8 miles the temp. Gauge moved from it's (tradition rock steady spot about 1/8" above the first hash mark) up to max the back down...did that twice in 20 miles. It only goes up then back in less than a minute. Bought Green Anti-freeze (Subaru) Thermostat, gasket, and conditioner.....Left my car for 1 hour drove 7 miles with no needle movement above it's traditional normal level....drove to my brothers, no problems, let the car sit while we worked together about 2 1/2 hours, drove 8 miles no needle problems...... temp gauge seems settled in after about 50 miles of intermittent driving. Car has started up fine and run normally all day.
I'm still cautious and will be changing the coolant soon.... I need to get my hands on a multimeter. But the car is outwardly running fine. One last question, where is the thermostat housing? As I follow the upper radiator hose it goes under the intake manifold....please tell me it's not under that and is easy to get to.

 

[rsay777]

The T-stat is on the bottom of the engine. Just follow the large rubber hose on the out flow of the radiator and where it connects to the engine that's it.

Easy to do especially since you are doing a coolant change. The coolant will drain out so be ready to catch it. Residual coolant will come out even after the radiator has been drained.

Please know that using OEM t-stat is the correct one to use. Napa etc have reduced flow and no "jiggle pin" please follow the instructions on orientation in the housing. I know you want to make sure of the direction toward the engine and I think the "jiggle pin" is down.

 

[bbottomley]

I need to get my hands on a multimeter.

A worthwhile investment! They can be had in the $3-6 range at Harbor Freight. There are stores in Gaithersburg, Laurel, Glen Burnie, and Parkville.

 

[kiev88cm]

The sad thing is I have a really nice one somewhere ...yes all the coolant / thermostat/ gasket/ and Conditioner is OEM stuff, what is the purpose of the jiggle pin?...I forgot to include that in all this there has been no cell or additional warning light for either temp or battery....again this is the best forum ever.

 

[kiev88cm]

Just thought I would catch you up to date. Today I drove about 60 miles off and on driving 15 miles stopped for an hour, another 10 miles stopped, and so on .No start up problems, and the temperature gauge has remained rock steady after warm up. I have done nothing except purchase parts for a coolant replacement and have the Battery, and alternator, checked by two different places yesterday and today ( both by the way say the battery and alt. are fine ).
I am embarrassed, to have bothered everyone, but I am very anal about my cars drivability and dependability. I bought some Redline Water Wetter which I will use when I change the coolant (I have run this since day one) probably this weekend.
Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[bellatech]

Just thought I would catch you up to date. Today I drove about 60 miles off and on driving 15 miles stopped for an hour, another 10 miles stopped, and so on .No start up problems, and the temperature gauge has remained rock steady after warm up. I have done nothing except purchase parts for a coolant replacement and have the Battery, and alternator, checked by two different places yesterday and today ( both by the way say the battery and alt. are fine ).
I am embarrassed, to have bothered everyone, but I am very anal about my cars drivability and dependability. I bought some Redline Water Wetter which I will use when I change the coolant (I have run this since day one) probably this weekend.
Thanks again for everyone's help.

That's what forums are for!

Happy trails! :rock:

 

[rsay777]

actually come to think of it I think the "jiggle pin" is up. There is a write up thread here somewhere.

 

[kiev88cm]

Thanks again guys. I will add to the post if anything pops up.

 

[kiev88cm]

Here's where I'm at now.

:tissue: I thought I'd catch everyone up and perhaps save you my misfortune. I have purchased new Subaru thermostat, Subaru coolant and Subaru Conditioner...but not installed. I have run the car intermittently and for 200 miles or so at a tick and the needle haven't budged from the "normal" position, until yesterday.
Yesterday I traveled about 200 miles to Pennsylvania and it was warm here about 85 degrees. I kept my eye on the temperature gage the whole time and no problems until driving at slow speed in town at the end of the day and the the gage would climb to max then immediately return to normal. Stopped and checked the overflow tank and oil, everything normal. No problem at Highway speed until about 30 miles from home when the gage climbed, to max, cruise light came on and check engine light. I took the next exit immediately and as I pulled into the Gas station steam was coming out from under the hood. A hole in the upper radiator near the fill cap.
My brother and I slowly poured water ON, not IN the radiator to cool it down. No major horror sounds from the engine. Called the roll back and it is now at the dealership waiting for them Monday morning.