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Premium Member
2004 Forester XT
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942 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Crank pulley is wobbling.

Questions:

1) Do I have to touch the timing belts when replacing it?

2) What are my options for replacement? Did some searching around and it looks like a solid pulley is safe for a flat 4. Could someone verify? Am I better off with a lightweight pulley or underdrive pulley and why?

Thanks
 

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On Island Time
2014 Forester 2.5i Prem. 6MT
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550 Posts
The timing belt is on a sprocket behind the crank pulley- you can change it with no worries about timing. You do have to remove the accessory belts though.

Everyone has their own opinion about stock vs. aftermarket and solid vs. dampened. I've never had issues with a stock-sized lightened pulley on its own (did have misfires in combination with a light flywheel).

Underdriven pullies don't net you much in the way of gains over a lightened one, and consider that you are also underdriving the alternator/AC, taking them out of their designed-for operating ranges.
 

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Premium Member
2004 Forester XT
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942 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The timing belt is on a sprocket behind the crank pulley- you can change it with no worries about timing. You do have to remove the accessory belts though.

Everyone has their own opinion about stock vs. aftermarket and solid vs. dampened. I've never had issues with a stock-sized lightened pulley on its own (did have misfires in combination with a light flywheel).

Underdriven pullies don't net you much in the way of gains over a lightened one, and consider that you are also underdriving the alternator/AC, taking them out of their designed-for operating ranges.
Thank you, extremely well explained. I am comfortable with the ACC belt stuff. That area along with the crank pulley has been the only unreliable area of the vehicle. I absolutely cannot believe how reliable this vehicle has been!!

Other questions:

1) My car is an automatic. Any tactics for getting it removed? I know that you can put it in 5th and start it using a breaker bar on most manuals and that is generally how I have done it. What about on an auto? I have an impact wrench, but is there clearance to get to the pulley? I am also reading about some special tool being required.

2) Which stock sized solid pulley might I go with? Can anyone tell me which is the cheapest that they would have the guts to go with....below is an ebay listing as a starting point.

If they are all equally created, I'd like the cheapest. If there is a weight difference by paying more, then I am am willing to pay more.

Thanks

forester crank pulley | eBay
 

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Registered
2002 ES300
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4,412 Posts
You can use a breaker bar and blip starter. Should break loose. I bought a used Cobb off nasioc. Cobb are the lightest at 20oz. About 4.5 lbs lighter than stock, no issues. I'd stick with stock, Cobb, Perrin, or grimmspeed. A fluidampr is nice, but $$$! I do have my stock one I'm not using. PM if interested.
 

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Premium Member
98 GM67 + 03 SG
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357 Posts
Long time ago, I put a Perrin lightweight pulley set on my 4EAT RS. The results were awesome, as the car pulled just a little bit quicker through the RPMs. A great way to speed things up on an automatic, since you can't just swap in a lightweight flywheel.

As for breaking loose the OEM pulley bolt. Have a couple of friends handy (at least one), a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and a cheater bar. You can put the transmission in a drive gear and turn the engine off, you just won't be able to remove the key. Have someone stand on the brakes while doing this, to aid in keeping the car/tires from rolling. Then, start pushing/pulling away on the OEM bolt. The longer the bar, the more leverage you can get on the bolt, but try and use a tactic similar to an impact gun, not just brute strength.

The impact gun works because it imparts many sharp, fast, forces on the bolt/nut, which help to break them loose and rotate. So, apply pressure to the bolt until things stop turning, and then "bounce" the breaker/cheater bar to do something similar. Or, hit the tensioned bar with a 4lb deadblow mallet.

You'll have to remove the radiator/fans to get enough room for the impact gun. If you are willing to do so, or need to flush the coolant, the impact gun will make things MUCH easier.

Kartboy makes a good pulley as well. I installed one on the forester and couldn't be happier with it.
 

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Premium Member
2004 Forester XT
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942 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I purchased the Cobb normal sized crank pulley. I don't want to create my own tool right now, I'd rather buy one.

Any suggestions as to which one might work the best and where to grab it from for a good price?

Found a few on ebay. Expensive, but I did a quick look at what it would cost me for a flat at Lowes yesterday and it was already like ~ $25.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...w=subaru+crank+pulley+tool&_sacat=0&_from=R40
 

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Premium Member
2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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