[Kanufixit2]

Go into my car to come home from work did its usual hard start, let it warm up and proceeded to leave. Not 2 blocks down the road and I notice my brake light is on, wiggled the handle nothing, so here I am with my light on and have no idea why... Any thoughts?? Btw it's about 14° with a windshield of holy mother F

 

[SpudRacer]

Check your brake fluid level.

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[Kanufixit2]

Yep just did a little bit more research, drl's still work, dot3 correct?

 

[Loscaldazar]

DOT3/4 are compatible. Doesn't matter which you use in a Forester.

 

[Kanufixit2]

Figured out it was just a dirty connection!

 

[Kanufixit2]

So just a bit ago the brake light came on again, so I disconnected the sensor from the res. and it's still on? Could it be something with me turning the t/c on and off

 

[Kanufixit2]

Fluid is between full and low

 

[Kanufixit2]

So driving home tonight, my abs t/c and brake light ll came on, when I got home I turned the car off and back on, everything was off except the BRAKE light...again really!!

 

[127338]

Maybe your handbrake is frozen on?

 

[crewzer]

So driving home tonight, my abs t/c and brake light ll came on, when I got home I turned the car off and back on, everything was off except the BRAKE light...again really!!

What other heavy electrical loads were operating [defroster(s), seat warmers, head lights + fog lights, heater fan, etc.] when you were driving home?

The ABS light may be an indication of low vehicle voltage; see OM page 3-17. The BRAKE light may be an indication of a problem with the EBD (electronic brake force distribution) system; also see page 3-17.

It's possible that your lovely IL/QC winter weather (high of ~20F yesterday?) and your three-to-four-year-old battery are not getting along. A visit to your local auto parts store on a cold day for an electrical system check may be a good start; I wouldn't be surprised if your battery is failing.

However, ABS, EBD, and VDC are all substantially tied together, so having all three indicators light up could suggest a more serious system problem. If your car's electrical system checks out, then it may be time for a visit to your local Subaru dealer.

HTH, and best of luck!
Jim / crewzer

 

[Kanufixit2]

^^ I agree with the battery possibly failing. It takes a couple cranks to turn it over in the morning.. The drivers seat, and blower were on low. Along with headlights and fogs, maybe it is time to let the wallet breath a little, instead of taking it to the ap store couldn't I just run a volt meter over the terminals? The only problem is I'm not to sure what to expect while reading it...

 

[Kanufixit2]

Maybe your handbrake is frozen on?

Egh, idk I don't use it and it wasn't on but it does work, that's the first thing checked!

 

[crewzer]

...couldn't I just run a volt meter over the terminals? The only problem is I'm not to sure what to expect while reading it...

The problem with reading unloaded voltage is that it can be difficult to interpret the battery's overall state of health. Stopping by an auto store will allow them to load test the electrical system.

While discharging, batteries convert stored chemical energy into electrical energy, and all chemical reactions are affected by temperature. A fully charged regular ol' lead-acid auto starting battery voltage at rest (i.e., engine off and no loads) should be ~12.65V at 77F, and ~12.55V at ~20F.

Charging voltage with the engine on should be ~14.7V at 77F nominal, but the cold battery charging voltage needs to be higher ("temperature compensation" in the battery business), which I doubt the regulator can do.

If the battery is weak and/or under-charged, then the voltage will drop quickly when the engine is at idle and significant electrical loads are applied.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

[Kanufixit2]

Ok sweet deal, il check this when I wake up (third shifter) crewzer, thanks for the information, il update my results

 

[dpm]

Brake warning light is driven both by the fluid level (directly) and the VDC unit and e-brake switch (via the CAN-BUS).

The service manual also states that the VDC warnings may take some minutes to turn off in cold temperatures, until engine coolant temp increases...

 

[Kanufixit2]

Right, but I can go all day and the light never goes off.. I just checked it with the meter, 12.65 cold, ~17.2 17.5 at cold idle and higher with accessories on ex. Lights and fogs, blower seat and radio

 

[dpm]

17v? Something wrong there. Check battery, alternator, and wiring in-between PRONTO! That's waay too high.

 

[crewzer]

Right, but I can go all day and the light never goes off.. I just checked it with the meter, 12.65 cold, ~17.2 17.5 at cold idle and higher with accessories on ex. Lights and fogs, blower seat and radio

12.65 cold with the engine off looks good, although perhaps a bit on the high side. However, 17+ with the engine at idle plus loads is not a good thing for the battery, the lamps, or many of the electronic loads. The factory spec for the regulated voltage is 14.1 V to 14.8 at 68 F (20 C).

The voltmeter could be off, but this otherwise sounds like the voltage regulator, which is built into the alternator, is defective.

HTH, and best of luck.
Jim / crewzer

 

[Kanufixit2]

Sorry for the non updates..so after reading all of your posts the alternator should be the culprit...along with the other various issues going on right now.. Thanks everyone...

 

[Kanufixit2]

Any alternators built for a forester will have the volt regulator married to it correct