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Discussion Starter #1
The clutch on my wife’s ’04 2.5XT is completely gone. I’ve done some searches looking for a writeup on the procedure, but haven’t found anything specific to this model. I’ve found a writeup for a normally aspirated Impreza, that calls for moving the engine forward 6”, but because I don’t know enough about these cars, I’m not sure if there are reasons this wouldn’t work (sorry, apparently I don't have enough posts to include the link). Can anyone confirm if this is the right approach, or perhaps point me towards a different writeup specific to this model?

Thanks,
John
 

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Dropping the trans is probably the easiest as it gives you the most room to work with. The hardest part no matter which way you do it will be to split the block from the trans.
 

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Pull the engine out. It's much easier to work on. To get the tranny out takes more time and more dis-assembly. To remove front drive shafts, you have to remove the lower ball-joints on each side. Then you have to remove the exhaust completely to get to the center driveshaft. Then you have 4 nuts to remove from the rear diff.

Trust me, remove the engine. I did it both methods and pulling the engine is way easier and your back will thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm leaning towards trying the procedure I referenced earlier and move the engine forward about 6 inches. Hopefully I'll have time after work later this week to get it up on jackstands and confirm there is enough room with the radiator and fans removed.

Thanks,
John
 

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aka DMax in Alaska
'06 Mini Cooper S JCW 6MT
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John...PM me your email address. I have access to some PDFs on the procedure that I can email you.

It is actually quite easy as clutch R&R goes. Removing the engine requires less hard part removal except you will need to breach your cooling system.

Removing the transmission will require the driveshaft and axles to be pulled.

The route you choose will depend on how high you can safely get the car off the floor.
 

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I'm leaning towards trying the procedure I referenced earlier and move the engine forward about 6 inches. Hopefully I'll have time after work later this week to get it up on jackstands and confirm there is enough room with the radiator and fans removed.

Thanks,
John
If you are going to pull it forward 6 inches, why not pull it out. Trust me, it will be easier. Also change the rear main seal while you are at it!!!:icon_wink:
 

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manual transmission will not break away from engine

I have tried everything. All the bolts have been removed. How much force do you have to use to force it off? I am dropping it down from under the car.:chair:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry I missed the other replies to this thread. I ended up moving the engine forward and removing the bits from the gap left between the transmission and block. The two hardest parts were separating those pieces and then mating them back together. After wasting a few hours trying to get them apart using all manner of pry bars, screwdrivers, hammers, and creative swearing, I finally bought a sacrificial wood chisel and hammered that between the two pieces. It was fast, easy, and effective. Lesson learned.

I did that work solo and used a floorjack to move the engine forward. It developed into one of those situations where I couldn’t retrace my steps. The engine refused to return to the starting position after the new bits were installed. After wasting a lot of time struggling by myself and using 2 floorjacks, I called my friend who had borrowed my engine hoist and asked him to return it. It then took two of us close to 90 minutes using the hoist, and two floorjacks. If I had simply removed the engine using the hoist from the start, it would have been much faster. The biggest surprise during this project though were the parts prices. A new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, alignment tool, and flywheel for about $450. That’s cheap!
 

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I have 2000 Subaru Forester. I thought it would be easier to lower the transmission instead of pulling the engine. I did this before on a Toyota and the transmission almost fell off after removing all the bolts. I removed six bolts and two nuts off of thread studs.
 

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You see, the trick is to lift the engine and the tranny together. You have to remove the pitch fork that is between the tranny and the firewall to do so. By doing this, you clear the engine mount studs from the subframe.

Then you use a jack and jack up the transmission to relive the pressure off the 2 dowel pins while the engine is supported by the engine hoist. Basically relieving pressure off the 2 dowel pins.

I use a wood chisel too and whack that seam to split the engine from the tranny as well. I also use wd-40 or other type of lubricant and spray it on the dowel pins. The problem with aluminum is when it corrodes, well it swells.
 

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Thanks for the advise. I will try this tomorrow. Need to get my engine hoist out. I will let you know how it works out.
 

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It worked! :woohoo: Got the transmission off and pulled it down. I used a transmission jack and engine hoist and kept the tension between the transmission and the engine to a minimum. I carefully wedged a wood chisel in between and kept doing that all around and tapped with a wood dowel to persuade it even more. Had to keep adjusting the jack and the hoist to ensure it was not binding up. Then it happened, separation. First observation is the throw out bearing is totally shot. I was happy to see this because now I know all my hard work was not wasted.
 
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