[Woody '04]

Just got a new clutch. It makes a nasty chirp (yes, kinda like a loud cricket) when idling that stops when barely depressing the clutch maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Sometimes I think I can hear it at highway speed. :icon_frown: Additionally the take-up point seems good at times halfway between floor and top and at other times seems to be all the way at the top.

I believe the throwout bearing is either bad new or somehow mislocated, as the clutch fork has extra movement at idle that seems different than vibration of motor.

So far the shop has bled the clutch hydraulic system but the chirp is still there.

Has anyone else had this?
If so, what brand of clutch parts were used?
What was the fix?

There does seem to be adequate grease on the slave cylinder - clutch fork point, so I believe the shop would have used appropriate amounts of grease on the clutch fork pivot point and sleeve the t.o. bearing rides on. All the rest of their work related to Headgasket replacement looks pretty good and the motor runs great.

The only adjustment in the clutch system is the fork attached to the master cylinder actuating rod and the clutch pedal linkage. This seems to only adjust clutch height and is not really a good solution to try to "preload" the clutch fork some more.

 

[The Black Box]

The throw out and pilot bearing should always be changed with the clutch.

 

[Woody '04]

All the parts were changed: clutch, plate, to bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal.

I think either the to bearing is bad or somehow mislocated.

 

[Woody '04]

update: Sachs clutch kit was bad. imho either t.o. bearing or pressure plate.

Exedy clutch kit in. Clutch grabs well but occasionally shudders a little on takeoff. Might this get any better after a few hundred miles after disc facings wear a little?

The original clutch was not shuddering any at all. It was just maybe 70% worn out at 86,000 mi. Flywheel looked in very good shape. (I have had (2) different 2000 Foresters and it is nowhere near as bad as those were occasionally shuddering and shaking on takeoff.)

 

[lego126]

jumpy clutch

I wish I knew for certain it was my clutch. I just replaced the M/T in my 02' forester with a M/T from an 05' a few months back. New clutch, pressure plate and throw-out. Got it back from the mech. and he said it had a slight shutter. And when letting off the clutch, it's just real jumpy, and hard to get just right. I had hoped it would fade after a few thousand, but it's not happened yet. if anything it's gotten worse. I've been driving M/t's for 20+ years, so it's not me, and it didn't do this before. Just last week, I heard the first "chirp" while releasing clutch pedal, and can duplicate if I get the RPM's slightly higher and dump the clutch. A friend of mine says he thinks it's because of the 6 year old kids in china that are responsible for the springs and the quality in most after market clutches. I just used the same clutch brand in my 97' nissan Pickup and it's been golden since and will hopefully last another 15 years. I'm convinced the mech done something incorrectly, like flywheel not turned, or forks on the throwout incorrectly installed. Sometimes it shutters, sometimes it good, sometimes its erratic pedal. I just found a forum that stated the Hill holder could cause some similar issues as well. But i'm not even sure I even have one. Any tips appreciated.

Edit: when we first got it back, the clutch pedal would get stuck on the floor. I've replaced the Master cylinder,<--also aftermarket) and bleed it several times. and even now if u release the pedal slowly u can sometimes get the pedal to sick. I'm not leaking fluid, no fluid loss. I've bled it, re-bled it.

 

[TECH MOD]

Do you mean you replaced the hydraulic Clutch slave cylinder ?? small 1 near the back of engine with the rubber boot ?? Presses against the fork arm?? If you replaced it and bleed it that usually cures the pedal sag.

 

[lego126]

Clutch chirp

Clutch master cylinder More Information for ACDELCO 385519, mounted to FW. After researching for several hours yesterday, I think I've narrowed down my troubles. When I replaced the clutch a few years back, I replaced it with OEM scooby clutch. It prob would have lasted the rest of the life of the car except for the transmission leaking, and ruining it from driving it for a month with massive leak. So this last time while replacing the trans, I wen tto get the same clutch at dealership, and they didn't have it, said it'd be 3 days, but I had to have the car back in 2 days. So I ended up with a HD 6-puck clutch, and apparently a HD clutch by itself was probably overkill, but adding in the 6-puck only doubles the trouble. I think what i'm feeling is normal increase in pounds per inch that comes with the decease in surface in the clutch disc, and the engagement is quick and ZERO slip. Personally, I could probably deal with it, but what matters most is my wife suxs at it. I'm not sure why the pedal is slightly saggy at times. I think I'm gonna replace the clutch this weekend and/or with the lightweight flywheel, and this time with the correct one from the dealership. Car is completely stock, daily-lady driven. Any thought appreciated.