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2000 Forester Manual
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a sticking clutch pedal on my 2000 forester and I replaced the clutch slave and hose to fix that issue. My pedal wasn't disengaging the clutch until about 2/3 of the way down so I decided to try and fix it. Everything I've read said it was an easy job, 10-15 minutes.

I found where the clutch rod was and removed the clevis pin and tried loosening the locking nut. Unfortunately I wasn't able to and the rod came out along with the boot.

So I made some adjustments and tried putting the rod and boot back together. When I press the pedal it sucks down to the floor and doesn't come up. I figured it was because I needed to re-bleed the clutch like I did when I replaced the clutch slave cylinder. When I did the slave, it would get stuck on the floor but then after a few pumps it would stop getting stuck and I could continue with the bleeding. That doesn't appear to be happening here.

Do I just need to keep at the bleeding or did I do something wrong? Also, while taking things apart I found a little stiff metal piece on the floor and I have no idea if it's related to what I'm doing or just debris. Attached is a picture with the metal piece on the upper left side of the pic.

 

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1999 Forester S 5-Speed Manual
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217 Posts
The first thing I'd do is check for anything "binding up" the clutch pedal hinge/mechanism.

Next would be to make sure the clutch fork isn't bent/damaged.

After that, you'll need to bleed the slave AND master cylinders since it's a hydaulic clutch.

As far as "adjusting" the clutch - Subarus (and most vehicles with hydaulic clutches) are self-adjusting. Any attempt to "manually" adjust them will usually result in negative consequences (as it appears you are experiencing presently).
 

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2000 Forester Manual
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So noob question here; where is the master cylinder? And can I not bleed the clutch system via the clutch slave?
 

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1999 Forester S 5-Speed Manual
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So noob question here; where is the master cylinder? And can I not bleed the clutch system via the clutch slave?
The master cylinder is the part the clutch pedal attaches into
Look for the clutch fluid resevoir mounted on the firewall and follow down from there.

From the issue you're describing, I'd bleed the master. It's usually only the slave if the pedal is working normally and yet the clutch still won't disengage.

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2000 Forester Manual
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I bled the system some more and it's working better but when stationary (engine off) the pedal always springs back and more bleeding didn't change anything but when I actually drive the car the pedal will stick half way and not pop back up but it only does this some of the time.

It acted like this before I replaced the clutch slave cylinder. After replacing the slave it got better but would stick half way only once in a while.
I should mention that when I attempted to adjust the pedal/rod fluid leaked out from where the boot is; is that normal? How much should be leaking if the boot is removed? To me it indicate a bad seal on the master cylinder, is this a correct assumption?
 

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1999 Forester S 5-Speed Manual
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217 Posts
Yup. If you're having issues after that, I'd start checking clutch components - either hot spots on the clutch disc or collapsed/broken fingers on the pressure plate. A bad clutch release ("throwout") bearing can cause the same issues as well.

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2000 Forester Manual
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yup. If you're having issues after that, I'd start checking clutch components - either hot spots on the clutch disc or collapsed/broken fingers on the pressure plate. A bad clutch release ("throwout") bearing can cause the same issues as well.

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Do these after market master cylinders usually come preset from the factory (in terms of rod length)?
 
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